Wristpin

I should be able to sort something out. Give me a couple of days.
 
EDIT
Forgot that I already had a scan on file!
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hlc73g0uerlvn4o/Allen Lawnranger manual trans0001.pdf?dl=0
 

I should be able to sort something out. Give me a couple of days.
 
EDIT
Forgot that I already had a scan on file!
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hlc73g0uerlvn4o/Allen Lawnranger manual trans0001.pdf?dl=0
 

Courtesy of Liam. Number three grandson.
                                                  
                                                                    
 
 
 
 

I did a complete rebuild on one several years ago for the original owner; rebore, all new cables, new axle and bearings,  the lot. He died a couple of years later and I suspect that all his old, well maintained kit was scrapped - a great shame.

The problem in the UK is that larger compressors need a three phase power supply and not many domestic properties have that.  I should have said that my figure of 15cu ft is “ Free Air Delivered” and not just cylinder dimensions times rpm.  FAD is the figure to look for.

At least. -  I've got a slightly smaller cabinet and a 15cu ft compressor and it works hard. When it comes to blasting a twist on the old adage for car (automobile!) engine sizes is the order of the day  "there's no substitute for cubic feet"!
In addition you need good dust extraction from the cabinet to see what you are doing. I doubled the amount of lighting and made a dust extractor using a shop vac with a cheap Chinese cyclone between cabinet and vac - traps the heavy dust and preserves the vac. . Not pretty but effective!!

Usually, Nylon Line Trimmer. If fitted with a steel blade - Brush-cutter. 

Actually a lot of companies do get upset and spend a lot of money protecting their trademarks. In the early 1960s my first job on leaving college was with the Caterpillar Tractor Company and part of my product familiarisation was reading all the trade magazines, noting all the use of the word caterpillar with a small c as a description of a crawler tractor or track . The authors / publishers were then sent a snotty letter pointing out the error of their ways. 
When I created my former company's web site I used the word Strimmer and even though acknowledging that it was B&D's trade mark I received a three page letter demanding that it was removed immediately  - or else!! 
Now, where's my Biro - sorry, ball point.

A great thread and wonderful workmanship . Ignition - unless I’ve missed it, there’s no mention of the condenser, has it been changed? Judging from the number of faulty / weak condensers that I change on not quite so old engines, it may be worth a punt.

I’d certainly check the heads for flatness but also re- torque them cold after a few hours of running.

Don’t think that you need anything too harsh or abrasive as in a plastic tank there is not usually any bound on dirt like rust to steel. I would remove the tank, seal off the outlet and add an inch or so of fuel and give it a good swirl round then pour it back into a can via a gauze filter funnel with a bit of blue roll in it as an additional filter paper. While pouring try to keep the fuel swirling to help any debris in suspension. Then have a look at the blue filter and see what may have been captured.
As an aside and not wishing to insult anyone, I used to regularly see people sealing off fuel pipes with a handy bolt. The problem is that the threads act as a rasp and loose of bits of pipe material which tend to fetch up where they aren’t welcome. Other than using the proper clamps, when scrapping an engine I used to save the mushroom cam followers. They are hard, polished and have slightly tapered ends and are unlikely to cause the above issues. Two or three different diameter ones are useful emergency bungs.

Don’t think that you need anything too harsh or abrasive as in a plastic tank there is not usually any bound on dirt like rust to steel. I would remove the tank, seal off the outlet and add an inch or so of fuel and give it a good swirl round then pour it back into a can via a gauze filter funnel with a bit of blue roll in it as an additional filter paper. While pouring try to keep the fuel swirling to help any debris in suspension. Then have a look at the blue filter and see what may have been captured.
As an aside and not wishing to insult anyone, I used to regularly see people sealing off fuel pipes with a handy bolt. The problem is that the threads act as a rasp and loose of bits of pipe material which tend to fetch up where they aren’t welcome. Other than using the proper clamps, when scrapping an engine I used to save the mushroom cam followers. They are hard, polished and have slightly tapered ends and are unlikely to cause the above issues. Two or three different diameter ones are useful emergency bungs.

That's a handsome load!

It's possible that the "balls" were the product of the oak gall wasp.
https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1CHBD_en-GBGB788GB788&ei=M83EXJrGK-uJ1fAPlLaDyA4&q=oak+gall+wasp&oq=oak+gall+ink&gs_l=psy-ab.1.4.0i71l8.0.0..6583...0.0..0.0.0.......0......gws-wiz.QDcJROBK_m0

X2 for a pic of the flywheel - straight on with the retaining nut in the middle. Possibly there will be 2 or 3 small threaded holes spaced around the nut into which screws from a puller will engage. Probably no need to buy a puller as one can be made using a bit of scrap steel and basic hand tools.
I would have thought that those Echos would have electronic ignition so is there any need to pull the flywheels - but perhaps not.
 
EDIT. Just found a micro fiche of the SRM 200da and it shows points and a condenser , so you could well need to make or obtain a puller. 

Not only was the machine trying to drive the knackered gearbox but of course the blade disc is always connected to the engine so a 21 or Osprey needs to be in good order for trouble free starting. Another problem that afflicted 21s was that the throw of the standard throttle control was not quite enough to move the carb lever to both full choke and stop. One or the other but not both, especially when there was a bit of wear in the linkage.
As far as your purchase goes, how was the machine described? If for "spares or repairs" it is definitely "buyer beware". If described as "used" the implication should be  "may be worn but at least working" .If the ad mentions a drive problem  - again you are in trouble.
New transmissions, or even repair parts, have not been available for many years, so you are at the mercy of sellers' honesty.
Some years ago I wanted a 15" petrol Flymo to meet a customer's particular requirement and purchase one that was described as "just serviced" . It plainly hadn't been and I supplied both ebay and the seller with several images to show that it hadn't been . Ebay did nothing and the seller eventually offered a full refund providing that I payed all the return carriage costs and then put me on a "blocked buyer" list.      

There were some in a sort of goldy yellow metallic. As those Mountfield were actually Murrays it’s possible that In a given year Mountfield under ordered  / oversold and had to top up their stocks with what ever the US factory had available.  I remember someone from MTD saying that their factories stopped making mowers in June and switched production to snow clearing and cultivation equipment ready for the autumn before switching back to mowers for the following year before Christmas.

The wear between the piston and pin will certainly be noisy but shouldn’t prevent it running. My pet hobby horse for vintage two strokes is old oil for old engines. That is don’t make up the mixture with s modern synthetic oil , use a vintage two stroke such as those marketed by Millers or Morris Lubricants which are basically a non detergent SAE 30 or 40 and have plenty of body to help with main bearing sealing etc.. I’m guessing that the mixing ratio for your engine will be 16:1.

Rather than honing the bore which implies stones and the removal of metal , I’d clean it up with a flap  wheel.  The Cords piston ring people used to sell various sizes of what appeared to be standard 80 and 120 grit flap wheels on extended spindles to reach down the bore and I’ve subsequently used standard diy wheels with an extension shaft that I think came with some wood boring bits. 
Clean the bore as best you can and offer up the rings to it and see what gaps you have. If you need new rings you may find that Tarpen economised by using the same sizes as another mass produced engine manufacturer but if push comes to shove there are a couple of firms that will make rings to order - but at a price!
As you are probably aware, with a two stroke you not only need compression in the accepted sense but also sufficient sealing to transfer the mixture from the crank case via the transfer ports. That takes us to crankcase sealing  including , if applicable, the joint between two halves, the main bearing seals and the joint between the case and cylinder barrel. Two strokes are equally sensitive to crankcase integrity as they are to cylinder compression.

A good dollop of red oxide then!

I remember the earlier machines as being a flat colour and the later ones as being a metallic paint. Presumably the rest of the machine is available for a colour match. Find an easily removable unfaded part - such as the seat bracket to any decent auto paint supplier.

https://www.planttalk.co.uk/threads/need-to-leave-the-job-in-a-hurry.430/

https://www.planttalk.co.uk/threads/need-to-leave-the-job-in-a-hurry.430/

https://www.planttalk.co.uk/threads/need-to-leave-the-job-in-a-hurry.430/

Two machines recently sent in for “service” !