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factory

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Everything posted by factory

  1. factory

    Petro Chug-A-Pump

    I haven't yet as I keep forgetting to measure the gudgeon/wrist pin. It's also going to need a set of early type starter dogs as well as a complete replacement blower/starter cover. David
  2. factory

    All my O&R machines

    I'm sure I read on the old forum that the compressor was one of the rarer O&R tools. David
  3. factory

    Cylinder Removal Tool

    Here is the cylinder removal tool I made, which is similar to the one shown in the engine maintenance manual. The instructions given are to make it from a piece of flat steel 3/16" thick & 1" square, with a hole drilled in the middle for using a screwdriver as a "T" handle. The piece of steel & the bar I used came from a box of offcuts & salvaged bits in the shed. I didn't bother to make it 1" square though, I only squared up the ends and drilled the hole for the bar. Leaving it a bit longer allows the tool to be clamped in a vice for cylinders that are too tight to remove by hand. David
  4. factory

    Ohlsson Rice 0.75hp engine

    I have seen anything like it either, the brackets look a bit homemade to me, I wonder if it has been in something radio controlled as both the carb & governor vane are missing, the brackets seem quite long though. David
  5. factory

    Petro Chug-A-Pump

    Yes I made the tool for removing the cylinder, I have added a new thread about it here: http://myoldmachine.com/topic/1499-cylinder-removal-tool/ As for the engine I have come to the conclusion that it cannot be repaired without the correct piston, as both the conrod & crankshaft/backshaft are completely different to those from a later engine. This is due to the redesign they did to change all the bearings. The later one is at the bottom of the picture. David
  6. factory

    O & R Carb Repair Tutorial

    Don't forget to remove and clean out all traces of the old air filter foam while you have the carb apart. The early engines only have one section which doesn't come apart, the later ones have an extra section as shown in the pictures. If the filter foam has already disintegrated and got sucked into the engine it can cause damage to the cylinder & piston. New filters can be easily made by cutting them out from a larger piece of new filter foam. This information was intended to go at the end of the first post but the editor timed out, the four pictures somehow appeared though. David
  7. I recently aquired this cutter, I'm not sure of its exact use as most the decals on the covers haven't survived. It was made by Kemm Co. (Bristol) Ltd The company was registered on the 13th June 1967, so I guess it was probably made sometime after that, the company no longer exists. It seems Kemm modified the engines to use a rope starter pulley and got rid of the spring, this is the only company I know of that did this. Warning decal on fuel tank cover. I had a look in the cover under the engine, the cutter is direct drive. David
  8. factory

    Kemm Co. brush/grass cutter?

    I only knew it was made by Kemm as I saved the pictures of yours when it sold last year. I didn't think I would see another either! Thanks for posting those recreated decals, I will have to try making some decals for the coupling covers when it gets restored next year. Here is the other intact decal on my grass cutter. I guess you would use it the same way as a modern strimmer/brush cutter, although its probably a lot heavier. David
  9. factory

    O & R Carb Repair Tutorial

    Carb Setting These posts are from the old forum thread for setting the carb needle. Original post by Webhead. "1 and 1/4 out for starting. I have had units run good between 3/4 and a full 2 turn out." Original post by usedtoolman. "If I recall there is one more factor on the needle setting. If you have a slotted needle the setting is 1/2 turn as opposed to 1-1/4 for the non grooved needle." Original post by Webhead. "I have a service bulletin in my dealer's manual that notifies all techs to remove the screen from the carb, on any engines that they worked on. Apparently the screen getting clogged caused more problems than if there was no screen at all. The later carbs were completely void of the screen." David
  10. factory

    Tint Tiger Carb

    You can still find the old carb repair thread with pictures at the internet archive. http://web.archive.org/web/20131129041923/http://ohlssonandrice.forumer.com/carb-repair-t1184614.html David
  11. I bookmarked the forum a few weeks ago after googling 'Kemm trimmer' as I have just bought one. Will post some pictures of it later in the week. Here is a picture of the connector panel on the other Regina Champ I have, the rest of it is the same as the other one except it is a Model 110 & the details are decals instead of the sticker on the other. And another one I don't own, a new unused Model 114 12V/24V version, which made over £300 on ebay in 2013. David
  12. The Amp Champ, which has the same alternator (but 110V) has a maximum output of 350W, these should be the same. Overloading them will result in the alternator windings burning out. I usually run them with a lower load, of 150W to 200W. The K.C. Wiggins version has fuses to protect from this, but doesn't indicate what value of fuses should be fitted. I put a 1.5A fuse in the 230V output. David
  13. I restored this Regina Champ generator earlier this year, it also has a 230V output and was made by Regina Electric Products Limited in London. David
  14. factory

    Factory Cut Away Engine

    Another cutaway O&R engine, this isn't mine, it was on ebay a few years ago. I wonder how many they made. David
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