factory

You must have done a swap with Clint with the tank & housing. Decals look very good, it will possibly be the only British branded Aquabug in the US, by the way those Perry decals were stuck straight over the top of the US Aquabug decal. David

Correct torque tightening is very important, we had someone injure themselves when a flywheel came off, not sure what they were doing but I suspect the starter housing was not attached. They changed the flywheel keys from steel to aluminium for later engines (again the sizes are different) this would allow the key to shear off & prevent keyway damage if the flywheel became loose. David

Already off topic, oh well. They did use metal bearing cages in the late production model plane engines that preceded the Compact range, must have been a crap cost cutting idea to use the plastic ones, they also seem to swell up which may be the reason they destroy themselves. David

I hope he knows that the shaft seals are different in these early engines. The carb with the red needle valve, I'm sure I seen that on the Creme Lure generator, mine doesn't use a Type 115 117 though. David

I remember finding a flywheel like that with some parts engines I bought, it would be interesting to see if the crankshaft is different too. David

Both the rubber seal used on the carb diaphragm arm & the brass check valve are commonly found on later production engines, it has very little to do with the application (though one or two later tools did use different carbs). David

It's the standard Compact III 1HP decal as shown below, I can't guarantee it but I may have one I can scan. David

That is very odd, the shaft on my TT Model 400 doesn't look any different from other TT engines as far as I can tell, I need to have a closer look but I think only the tapered part sticks out (on your engine part of the parallel section also sticks out). Did yours have one of these bodged sections of stud with a nut riveted on, holding the armature on? This part is longer than the standard Model 300 TT. David

The Type 186 is used on my Turbair sprayers too, sadly the service manual lacks a parts list for it, but does have the type 176 (I have a pump with a type 176), the differences are going to be the type of gas tank supplied, the mounting flange with the extra threaded holes and the carb parts used (they also remove unused parts from these lists). I also have an engine from a later 13B version, this one is a Type 13B338, the sprayers should have a choke lever label on the large cylinder cooling baffle. And finally everyone of these sprayers I've seen has the spring removed form the carb idle screw, which is then screwed all the way in, as shown in the manual too. David

The only fuel filter should be in the gas tank, early engines had another fuel filter in the carb, which was found to clog so often that they removed it. The first one of those check valves I came across was stuck too, all my usual cleaning methods failed, but several KW of ultrasonic cleaning* at work fixed it. David *Sadly the ultrasonic cleaner at work was removed a few years ago, as they wanted the space for other work.

Looking good, just needs a fuel line & a 1HP decal, it's one from either 1968 or 69 with the serial number decal on the cylinder cooling baffle. David

The only simple test is to use a multimeter (set to ohms/resistance function) to test the two coil windings, the secondary coil should have a resistance in the kilohm's range, but this will not tell you if the secondary has shorted turns. Coil testers can't be common outside of a repair shop, with a bit more electronic knowledge other test gear could be used. David

Just to let you know, the screws for the tubular steel frame maybe be held with loctite, they were not US threads either and getting the fan blade off was a pain too (the six screws only hold the atomiser discs in place). David

Very nice, everything fits together perfectly. David

The thing is I would never have found out if they hadn't sent another chainsaw to me by mistake. Thankfully the second bidder was genuine, it was the strange bidding by the third bidder that turned out to be the sellers other account. David

Oh dear, so where was it advertised? The seller I got mine from was very dodgy (was bidding up his own items using another ePay account). David

Some of them have the "Petro" name removed from the handle, a Japanese re-brand (Shingu) found it's way back to the US here. http://www.chainsawcollectors.se/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?t=16251 David

I'm a bit surprised, they can't all be in Britain & Australia/New Zealand. David

Those caps are often damaged, there are a couple on eBay at the moment from this seller; https://www.ebay.com/itm/362426595163 David

You probably have the same problem we have too, sellers don't look for a name and just list them as "old chainsaw" or something, I've had to look through a lot of other saws to find anything of interest. David

Apparently my Chug-A-Saw engine is a 118 too , the 10% remains of one I have is also stamped 118. David

Hopefully Paul @pmackellow will manage to save it , it's only the third one I've seen in the UK. Now that's not rite I seen it first you need to back off Are these not more common in the US given the fact they were made over there? David

I was wondering about this as you mentioned 3D printing one a long time ago, nice to finally see the finished part. David

Found the appropriate service bulletin, from engine SN #1051158 (May 1971) all Series 13 engines used feather valve #400311 with the thicker gaskets (#200469 & #200470), for fitting the feather valve to older engines the thinner brown gaskets (#5-5 & #5-6) are still used. I'm sure I have a sealed NOS feather valve somewhere, supplied with both types of gaskets, the bad news is they also state the shaft seal is not replaceable in this newer feather valve. David

It has ePay's "Global-Lose-it-Programme" so I can't buy it either. https://www.ebay.com/itm/114006353971 David