factory

Looking good, just needs a fuel line & a 1HP decal, it's one from either 1968 or 69 with the serial number decal on the cylinder cooling baffle. David

The only simple test is to use a multimeter (set to ohms/resistance function) to test the two coil windings, the secondary coil should have a resistance in the kilohm's range, but this will not tell you if the secondary has shorted turns. Coil testers can't be common outside of a repair shop, with a bit more electronic knowledge other test gear could be used. David

Just to let you know, the screws for the tubular steel frame maybe be held with loctite, they were not US threads either and getting the fan blade off was a pain too (the six screws only hold the atomiser discs in place). David

Very nice, everything fits together perfectly. David

The thing is I would never have found out if they hadn't sent another chainsaw to me by mistake. Thankfully the second bidder was genuine, it was the strange bidding by the third bidder that turned out to be the sellers other account. David

Oh dear, so where was it advertised? The seller I got mine from was very dodgy (was bidding up his own items using another ePay account). David

Some of them have the "Petro" name removed from the handle, a Japanese re-brand (Shingu) found it's way back to the US here. http://www.chainsawcollectors.se/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?t=16251 David

I'm a bit surprised, they can't all be in Britain & Australia/New Zealand. David

Those caps are often damaged, there are a couple on eBay at the moment from this seller; https://www.ebay.com/itm/362426595163 David

You probably have the same problem we have too, sellers don't look for a name and just list them as "old chainsaw" or something, I've had to look through a lot of other saws to find anything of interest. David

Apparently my Chug-A-Saw engine is a 118 too , the 10% remains of one I have is also stamped 118. David

Hopefully Paul @pmackellow will manage to save it , it's only the third one I've seen in the UK. Now that's not rite I seen it first you need to back off Are these not more common in the US given the fact they were made over there? David

I was wondering about this as you mentioned 3D printing one a long time ago, nice to finally see the finished part. David

Found the appropriate service bulletin, from engine SN #1051158 (May 1971) all Series 13 engines used feather valve #400311 with the thicker gaskets (#200469 & #200470), for fitting the feather valve to older engines the thinner brown gaskets (#5-5 & #5-6) are still used. I'm sure I have a sealed NOS feather valve somewhere, supplied with both types of gaskets, the bad news is they also state the shaft seal is not replaceable in this newer feather valve. David

It has ePay's "Global-Lose-it-Programme" so I can't buy it either. https://www.ebay.com/itm/114006353971 David

Here is the first set of the thicker gaskets I came across inside a hedge trimmer engine from 1973 (a year after your Aquabug engine was made). It didn't want to come apart in one piece either. Note: there are different sized gaskets for the exhaust collector on some engines too. David

There is a "G&R engines" reed valve (400041) for the model 20A engine here, has make offer too; https://www.ebay.com/itm/174180575687 The same seller also has a starter spring for the 13B/20A engines (200576) & a pack of screws (100027). David

Hopefully it''ll look better when cleaned up, but still nice & original. I've added the Gusher pump parts diagram & list to the manuals sticky thread: David

Looks very nice condition, I have the slightly newer green 13B engined version (Orline Gusher pump Model 570). David

The thicker gaskets may actually be correct, they changed at some point in the production. A type 13B engine would not fit the cowling used on the Aquabug, 13A engines must still have been made for certain tools long after most manufacturers went to using the 13B. David

Has Paul @pmackellow seen it? I believe he was after one for his collection too, where did you find it advertised (can't see it on ePay)? David

There are a couple on here too, a forum search just reminded me I bought a 1963 O&R instructions & parts list from Australia, I need to get it scanned in at some point. David

I don't mind too much, it was good to see the forum remain busy while I was away. I may try combining some of the gaskets posts into a more relevant thread (time permitting), it does get difficult if more than one topic is in a post. For the thin paper induction case gaskets, I just measured the parts they fit into and made the gaskets to those sizes, I use grease to hold them in place for assembly too. David

Clint, yes it is a Petro "Chug-A-Saw" chainsaw from my collection, I'm going to need to check the engine type as I never made a note of it (hidden behind the gas tank). David

It's nice to see something a little bit different, if it uses a rubber impeller like the US made pumps then do not run the pump dry. In my notebook I have noted the size of one of the O&R gas tanks, diameter 2⅝" & length 4⅞". These engines were popular for building various home-made mini-bikes/scooters, a few companies also made mini-bikes & skateboards using O&R power. David