factory

No I don't think it's been posted on here, but I have the whole article (can't remember where I found it), note the article covers several different engines including a large picture showing one of O&R's competitors 'Cox' who had their own bicycle kit the 'Bronco' (similar to O&R's Chicken Power kit). Also the article is one of very few mentions of an O&R powered winch being used for the 1963 expedition on Mt Everest, something that must have not been very successful as I never found much else relating to it. David David

I've definitely got an open circuit coil here, not surprizing really given how some people treated these engines, water damage is common in the UK too if they where abandoned in the hedge, damp leaky sheds, etc. Using the resistance function on a multimeter would have proved if the points weren't making proper contact when closed (with coil wire disconnected on the back) or find a short-circuit if one of the little insulators was damaged (again with coil disconnected). Here are all the bits that should be present for the points, if any of the insulating washers or bushes are damaged or missing you will also get no spark, also make sure the pushrod operates freely to open/close the points (the flat end goes towards the crankshaft). David

Hi Matt Thanks for posting the pictures, it confirms what I said previously for the estimated age. Here is a picture of a pushrod, the flat(-ish) end goes towards the crankshaft and the rounded end to the moving contact (points), if it looks like the one below and opens & close the points it should be fine. As it's an earlier engine I'm not surprized the wiring is causing problems, on most of my early ones the rubber insulation has hardened & often cracked or fallen off in places too. I use a few different sizes of heat-shrink sleeving to repair mine, just be very careful around the coil as the plastic it's made of will soften with heat. Also make sure it is clean of dirt to prevent any tracking of high voltage. David

Probably a daft question, but have you got the case of the capacitor attached somewhere to the engine block? As it's fitted to the covers on this late model 13B engine I can't help thinking that it may be disconnected, as you probably have the covers removed to be able to turn flywheel to check for spark. David

That's odd, the secondary (to spark-plug lead) should be the one reading 7.5-8 k ohms. And the primary (to points/capacitor) the low value, probably too low a value for a standard multimeter to measure. Please confirm this. The meter that gave 6-12 ohms, check resistance of the meter leads connected together, if it still reads 6-12 ohms then either the leads are faulty or meter is faulty on that range (or you may be able to zero it if it has a control for that). If it is 7.5-8 k ohms for the secondary (to spark-plug lead) then it should be OK and the repair is good. Another thing to check, is the flywheel key present? This set the correct position the the flywheel on the crankshaft. If you want to check the capacitor, I would suggest swapping it with a known working one to confirm if it's any good. David

I have been adding scans of manuals & parts lists I have here, still more to add when I get the time; Keep saved searches on ebay, with patience you will find lots of O&R stuff, my collection has taken many years and there is still stuff I haven't got. David

Is the points gap set correctly? , make sure there are no loose connections, etc. To test the coil is OK you need something (like a multi-meter) that will measure resistance (in ohms & kilo-ohms), a good coil will have a very low resistance in ohms for the primary and a reading in kilo (k) ohms for the secondary, I haven't given any values as they tend to vary depending on the age of the engine (I suspect they changed supplier for the coil over the years). Please let me know the readings you obtained if you are not sure. Multi-meters aren't usually any good for measuring capacitors (also don't always have that function), cheap ones can give false readings if the capacitor is electrically leaky. Note that multimeters only test with a low voltage, so you can't tell if the insulation is leaky/failing at the normal operating voltages. Here is some info for setting the gaps for all the various types of O&R engine; Have you got picture showing this? David

I have edited the previous post, as I was referring to the pictures with the older style starter (in yellow), the 13B should be a square type as yours has, the seller changed it for some reason. Note the 13B flywheel is different to that of the earlier engines, it has different starter dogs for the square style starter mechanism. The other thing you mentioned, the blade/tab will go to a remote kill switch on the handle of the weed wacker/trimmer. David

Is it one like this? Type 111 is the model of engine commonly used for the earlier Tiny Tiger generators, was #024548 was found stamped into the crankcase? Note we can't accurately date any engine made before July 1967, but if that number is on the crankcase I would estimate it was made around 1962. If the air filter/cleaner housing has the original disintegrating foam be sure to remove all traces of it before attempting to start the engine. A new filter can be made by cutting a modern engine filter to size. Webhead on here has new carb diaphragms for these engines, usually the points just need a clean & checking for a correct gap, very occasionally the capacitor or coil fails, but not often thankfully (Unlike my other much older UK made engines, where they are almost guaranteed to be knackered). I do have a manual for the generator section which I have been meaning to upload for quite a while, for guides on the carb & engine please have a look at the 'sticky' threads, if there is anything else you need to know ask and we will try & help. David

The pipe on the crankcase to the carb is for operating the pump diaphragm with pulses from the engine crankcase. Please don't use it as a parts engine as you said in another thread, it was one of three engines that originally came the seller in the linked thread below; Here is the original ebay description (with the history) for them; It may be the only one left, as they all ended up with the seller you got that one from, one of which got an incorrect starter fitted by that seller & the correct one sold as bits, not with the engine (See below); They were made towards the end of AEP, around 1977/78 so it's likely not many where sold and that makes it much harder to find a survivor. David

The one Paul mentions in post #3 with no compressor (at the time), got restored in this thread; https://myoldmachine.com/topic/1387-orline-air-compressor/ David

I've had a look through various manuals for O&R tools and can only find one reference (in the Turbair manual) for using fuel mixture (which will become oil once the fuel evaporates) on the air cleaner/filter foam, most just mention washing with fuel or another solvent (not mixture). David P.S. I have heard of oiling air filters before (in the manual for an item of vintage 1960's HP electronic test gear, but OT for here but it's another of my hobbies), I haven't looked but I imagine the product mentioned is long since discontinued.

Similar one on ebay (with spare reed valve) if this one has sold; https://www.ebay.com/itm/202545909063 David

Engines type 185 (Mustang 129, 148), 213 (Mustang 149), 236 (Sears), and 13B249 (Mustang 13) all use the same part. The Mustang 123 should use the same parts as it's a 13B engine (haven't got the diagram to hand). The 13B engine is the updated version with the square starter mech as the one in your Dyna-Mite tank thread. David P.S. Hopefully no more issues today, the scans found two problems with Firefox and I've turned ABP back on.

Here the list shows; A-62-20 = pinion gear & clutch drum assembly (18 teeth). A-125-15 = clutch hub, shoe & spring assembly (presumably for the above clutch drum) Edit. Just had a quick look at a random O&R chainsaw engine parts list (type 243) and it uses the above. David P.S. I will try & answer some of the other questions later, couldn't do much yesterday as one of the adverts took over Firefox.

This thread has got a bit mixed up, the original post was actually about a earlier 3/4HP engine, not the 1HP version as the title implies, so Generator Joe posted his request for help on the Type 222 engine here instead of starting a new thread. Posts #19 & #20 would be better moved to a new thread for and this one retitled "Bearing for ohlsson 1hp 3/4HP" to avoid further confusion in the future. Alberto The diagram I posted is of no use for the 3/4HP engine, it uses different size bearings & doesn't even have the piston bearing shown. Sadly I cannot help with any complete bearing sets (the few spares I bought were for my early engines), if someone needs an odd roller for a bearing I maybe able to help though. Below is part of the diagram for the 3/4HP engine (dated 1962), sorry the quality is poor (I don't have an original of it so can't provide a better one). David Edit, Split posts about bearings for 1HP engines to new thread here;

Is there reason this & the Ice Auger thread isn't in the O&R section, I don't always get time to look through the other sections. I think that tank didn't leave the factory with that engine on it, the PTO shaft & mounting plate were never used on the Dyna-Mite, no one has ever posted pictures of anything actually branded 'Life-Savr', the starter mech seems to be missing too. The fuel pickup should be in the side where the carb is, there should be a tube linking the pipe by the filler cap with another on the other side too. David

I just went for the cheapest second-hand copy of the 'Small Air Cooled Engines' I could find, I paid around $8 including shipping from a seller in Detroit on Abebooks, a real bargain. Is the Orline stuff the two separate BIN listings? If yes they are photocopies, I did buy those a few years back and an original too (the print on that is poor too). Thanks for your other of help with finding US listings, scans of quite a bit of the literature for UK only O&R tools can be found on the forum too. David

You should have a better chance than me of finding stuff in the US on ebay, as they hide stuff for people outside of whatever country in located in . I have lots of stuff scanned from my collection (some of which has been added to various threads in the O&R section), if your interested in Magazine articles & adverts I could provide a list of titles/editions that can be found on the web for free. The "Small Air Cooled Engines" service manual I have (16th edition published by Intertec) has 10 & a half pages for O&R/AEP out of the 400+ pages, I have a couple of older editions with less in. You should be able to find this book easily on Ebay, Abebooks or Amazon, etc. 3/32 x 3/16 Tygon fuel line sounds good. David

If it's stamped Type 222 on the crankcase can you identify which bearing the roller came from (diagram attached) or better still a picture of the bearing & where it's from would help, if you can measure one of the remaining rollers with a Vernier Caliper or Micrometer even better. Where about in the world are you? Webhead or Wallfish may have them if you are in the US or I could help if your in the UK or Europe. David

My local shop doesn't sell Tygon, but the Oregon tubing I have been using from them is 3/32" internal diameter, note the external diameter (3/16") is bigger than the original tubing used by O&R so the original fuel line clamps/clips will no longer fit (I have kept those in case I find something smaller in the future), but the tubing seems secure enough without them. I'm sure the Tygon equivalent will be fine, maybe one of the US members can advise the type/size they use. David

Personally I would keep it as is with the original paint (it really doesn't look that bad too me & the chrome is good too) and try & reattach the stickers (or get replicas made if they are too damaged), by the way this is the only one I've seen branded as Strikemaster so very rare too, of course it's your choice. I would only consider a repaint if there was very little paint left, as I like them to show their age & originality, something which can't be brought back once repainted. The leaking seals will refer to the rubber crankshaft seals, another common problem with O&R's, original NOS seals are very hard too find but they can be replaced with appropriate size O rings (can't remember if this is mentioned in the 'sticky' engine rebuild thread). The one issue with the later 13B engines (carb arm seal) has already been replaced with older carb parts (see the linked threads). The name changed to AEP around 1975 and there are no later adverts than 1978 (last time I looked), the company was dissolved in 1985. I only have two AEP branded ones in my collection, one is a Drillgine (imported from the US) and the other looks to have been removed from a hedge-trimmer (bought in the UK). David

This site looks very useful for finding ethanol free fuel in the US & Canada; https://www.pure-gas.org/ I noticed there was no labelling (E no.) on the pumps at the nearest station to my work in the UK. David

I've seen this exact one before, it was Oakslayer's, see the links below for what has already been done/changed; I did try messaging him on here in May to try & buy it myself, but as he hasn't visited since Feb I never got a reply, but it's good to see someone on here has bought it. David

It seems the Stihl 'MotoMix' premix is made with the 'HP Ultra' oil, aka the synthetic version. Where do people with classic cars/motor bikes get low ethanol fuel from in your area? Looks like the premium fuels in the UK are more likely to be ethanol free, but this is not guaranteed and the petrol station staff/owners may not know either. Interestingly one website I looked on the other day mentioned that Brazil has been mixing ethanol into fuel for around 40 years, from this article here; https://armchairbiker.com/ethanol-in-petrol-what-classic-bikers-need-to-know/ Also I remember watching a youtube video where they mentioned that because the regulations had changed, the fuel available (in LA) now has a lower boiling point and they had to remove the side cover from a vintage Honda generator to prevent vapour lock (something I had never heard of before seeing that), not sure if it has anything to do with ethanol (but the article linked above also mentioned vapour lock as a problem in hot conditions). David