Cub Cadet

More Ohlsson Rice powered machines and Jobbers back from storage this evening...
 
Tractors back over the weekend
 

Shelves now all in place and carpeted...
 

That's your Christmas break sorted then.

Well done, Ewan. Looks in reasonable condition. Shouldn't take to much work to tidy up.

Was lucky enough to find this gem the other day, picked it up today. Apparently only 750 made. It was made by Moto mower and Massey badged them. 
 
Here are some pics, please let me know if anyone knows anything about them. 
 

 

 

 

Great find Ewan, I love it.
 
Iain

Was lucky enough to find this gem the other day, picked it up today. Apparently only 750 made. It was made by Moto mower and Massey badged them. 
 
Here are some pics, please let me know if anyone knows anything about them. 
 

 

 

 

Nice find Ewan 
 
Any idea who made it for Massey Ferguson, or did they make it themselves?

Thats nice
 
Sure Harry will make you an offer

Thats rather nice Ewan
 
Good find mate
 

Was lucky enough to find this gem the other day, picked it up today. Apparently only 750 made. It was made by Moto mower and Massey badged them. 
 
Here are some pics, please let me know if anyone knows anything about them. 
 

 

 

 

Hopefully it’ll be there, for once I think I might try and keep one original  although it has been painted over at some point, they did make a fairly good job of it. Going to need to be stripped, cleaned and rebuilt first, will be a winter project 

Thats real nice Ewan, lucky find I will expect to see it restored at Newby Hall. 

Today's plans went out the window so I spent some time in the shed, now I've got a load of red bits hanging up.

Cleaned up and some tie rods made, I went for m10 so had to drill out slightly on the steering rack end.

Nothing would touch the carbon other than the rotary tool with a steel wheel and wd40 after a screwdriver scrape (I was very careful with both). Lots of dings in the head so figured I can't make it any worse. The piston going to look like the surface of the moon I bet.
Think I'm done on this now after 1 more sheet for good measure tomorrow 

To be honest, I would say you are there with it. Hopefully the new gasket rolled lip will sit in the same depression area remaining.
You have enough flat area for a gas tight joint now. The original pic of the head showing the blown gas leak areas, which I later showed and denoted (but forgot to explain) with green arrows are now fine.
There is just the chamber carbon deposit areas to finish back to bright and you're done with the C/head.
Nearly time to arm yourself with a torque wrench and bolt it down to the sequence in the manual. 
 

Comparing what you started with, it looks a whole lot better. I have never seen one that badly distorted. 
In an attempt to be practical and honest, I can't help thinking that it needs more done to prevent further leaks?, but I'm a pretty fussy over-cautious person.
 
If you stop there, call it a day and fit it, there is a risk it will leech gasses past the gasket to the two uppermost, red circled bolt holes. I can''t say what the level of risk is. 
At least the head would not be distorted again when bolted down to spec (unless the cylinder gasket face is not flat). 
I can't be sure but I think those 2 bolts go onto blind holes?, so may contain any further leaking, but will make it difficult to remove them in future.
The 3rd red circled hole with the black arrow carries the bolt which I believe sometimes breaks into the Exhaust outlet chamber. That looks like it would be ok, as you have a small, clean flat face between it and the head chamber.
  

 
I understand/admire your self disciplined, marathon efforts to get to this stage, but it's your call really.
Maybe if you could continue at least to the point of obtaining a flat 'land' on the chamber side of those two top circled bolt holes?.
It may help if you place the head down on the paper and presuming you are right handed, place the palm of your hand (ball of your thumb) over the Spark Plug hole area, you can apply slightly more pressure to that area and less over the opposite end. You would emphasise more localised metal removal that way and still achieve flatness.
 
I don't think there is any issue with Valve (lift) Head clearance as a result of metal removal, but it would be worth checking anyway.
Just wondering if you have obtained/downloaded a copy of the K series Engine Service Manual?. It's very helpful.
Keep at it, you'll be rewarded with a better running Kohler in the end.  
   

This Gasket looks perfectly serviceable as an example (others are available)-  K341 .
 
Someone has de-coked that in the not-too-distant past and may not have checked the flatness before refitting, or bolted it down in the wrong sequence and torque setting.
Clearly burning fuel at a rich setting, as the exhaust valve should be pale fawn/white colour. The good news is, it is not yet burning any oil from worn rings or cylinder.
  
You should not have a problem cleaning the face up on the head. It's quite straight forward.
Just take it slow and let the weight of the head sit on the W or D paper when circulating it. You can use a P320 grade or P240 if it's rough to start, then progress to finer grades.
No need to press down hard on it.
Use a brush to clean the dust out of the paper regularly (use a mask). If you find it hard to tell the high/low spots, use a coloured felt tip pen to highlight them.
I had to learn and have done all my engines that way, even if they didn't need it. I had to start with examples like this-
 
 
to this-

 
Done properly, you won't need to revisit it after.
 
 

And powered tracked trailer. Be interesting to see how it's steered.

Didn't get as much done as I hoped today.
First job was to cut down the mounting bracket and clean up then I noticed the chute aim adjuster was missing so more fabricating needed.
By the time I finished that it was too late to paint as the temperature was dropping.

There seems to be a difference on length on the mounting bracket between the bolt on and the quick hitch of 4 inches so I had to mod the bracket, luckily it's shorter and I hadn't painted it.
I drilled a couple of more holes and welded another 5/8" bar on, I will cut off the excess tomorrow.

Got some more done and the first thing to do was change the fixing bracket, as the blower is pre 1973 it had a long 3/8" nut and bolt to bolt it to the frame of the tractor.
I drilled out the hole to 5/8" and used a solid bar so that I can use the quick hitch, also cleaned and primered a few more parts.
The parts box is almost empty but I'm missing a rod that fits on the chute to adjust the aim so that will be the next job.

Part of my Workshop stock tidy up.
This carb is from a 1981 K301 engine. I have completed what is known as a full rebuild on this and is returned to virtually new condition. What has been done was covered in a Topic on Redsquare a while back, so I've added a link here for scrutiny-  -CARB-  
Yes, you have the option to pay much less for a new Chinese copy, but this one now has quality built into it to run for many more years with some care.
It was assembled with a new repair kit, super clean inside and out. Stored in that condition until I set it up on one of my Tractors to adjust the settings for correct running mentioned here in this link-
Set up Carb on K301   Returned to storage until now.
 


 
Should bolt straight onto a K301/M12. Note- this was set up and adjusted on an engine in good condition and a clean Air Filter. You may still need to make further adjustments.
Includes the Governor Arm linkage and Fuel inlet elbow  £45.
   
  

Northumberland Vintage Tractor Club rally October 20th & 21st held at Brunton Airfield near Alnwick