Maybe post some pics of your carb and how you have the governor set up.
Carb should have a spring on the bottom of the butterfly shaft.
The governor vein flag should be tight on the shaft. That shaft of the governor vein goes directly into the top of the butterfly shaft on the top of the carb.
The governor vein goes directly to the carb. No linkage. That older type engine probably has the vein type which is a flag on a black thin rod with a flat end. It just looks like a little flag. That flat end of the rod slides through the plate hole and goes directly into the slot on the butterfly of the carb. The flag end sits at the flywheel and the blower housing will keep it from disengaging with the carb.
Basically the wind from the flywheel will push on the flag and rotate the rod which closes the butterfly.
The screw is used for the low idle position but your engine does not have a throttle control. It's set up to run full throttle at 6300 rpm no load so it won't be touching the screw in most circumstances.
Most likely you will need to disassemble the carb and clean the little ball that's under the spring. Follow the tutorial and and you'll be fine.
With a clean piece of fuel line connected to it, blow into it and air should only pass when you push the primer button. You should not be able to suck air out anytime.
That's a fair price considering the condition of it and it looks complete with baffles etc. Paint isn't bad. It's a later model with the 13B engine and square recoil type starter. No need to be near TN as it shows free shipping too.
Please don't embarrass yourself and waste mine and your time with low ball offers of 20 or 30 dollars.
What number is a waste of time? Yours could be $350 and below while mine is anything over $125. There's a guy on Epay with a circular saw priced at $1000 which is completely ridiculous, but obviously he believes it's made of gold. So one never actually knows where that line is. I don't put much value in a running engine because I can always rebuild it and get it running, while someone else may not have the skills to do that so running is the important thing.
Why not just say what you want for it and save everyone's time to begin with since you already know what you don't want to except?
Yes it's not very common but it's also not complete. It could be less likely to find those missing parts than it would be to find a complete machine.
Maybe ebay is the best way to determine it's value?
Paul has some good detailed pics on pg1. It's an everyday O&R 1/2" shaft.
Looking at the pics, it might be a problem to use that chainsaw box unless you're willing to rotate the engine to raise the shaft. Take a good look at it and line it up to see if it works. If you still want the gear it's yours.
At least the whole thing didn't break off. Should be an easy fix
There' are pics here on the forum. One is a Warn capstan type winch. I have one called a Bee Jay winch. It uses a cable wire. And the newest type found which seems pretty rare, an Irvington
Did it look like one of these?
9 hours ago, CNew said:
I’ll have to figure out how to get a tapered shaft made to fit up
A 1/2" regular O&R straight shaft correct? One side has a flat. I might have one of those around as well. They fit right on the tapered shafts. Long time ago I cut the shaft from a defunct TT generator to make a straight shaft.
Take a look at your gear box and let me know if you want the gear. I can give it a shot first and let you know how it goes and just send the whole thing if it's good. You can keep your gear box to put a tire friction wheel on and make a mini bike with it!
The gear teeth on the swap gear are wider than that chainsaw gear teeth are but the inner part of the chainsaw gear is wider than the teeth on it, so the thickness of both gears are the same but constructed different.
I also have and old school die cast type gear that would fit a different type of gearbox. The diameter is smaller. I don't know the part numbers like David does to know what fits what so don't know if that can be used to flip a different gear box or not.
Just went and had a better look. That doesn't seem to be a plug to close the end so it will need to be drilled and then use something to seal the other end
There's a welch plug in the closed end. remove and reuse it for the other side to close the end and the bearings should all be the same. No need to change them. Plug and play except for moving the welch plug from one side to the other for the closed end. It may be easier said than done for that plug as I have never removed one. YET
The NOS gear on the left in the pic will be flipped 180 so the shaft goes out through the end of your box which has the plug in it now.
How about flipping it? Found this NOS gear sitting in the parts stash
The shaft will be lower rather than up higher but it should work if you want to try flipping the PTO in your chainsaw case. I've never tried it but always wanted too.
Ah, back when MoM was first launched and before I started the O&R section. Guess I should pull it out for some pics and start a thread of it's own for reference
It's been a long build but @CNew Clint lit a fire under my butt when he messaged me recently about some foot pegs. They were ordered and once they showed up it gave some incentive to work on the bike. Still have some stuff to do and think it may get another headlight since it does look better with the dual lights. Haven't cut the handle bars to add a spring so they fold. My father has a gas tank which is much closer to original if not the original type so that will go on once I get it.
Finally glad just to be able to post something as it's been a bit slow on the forum.
John
Part interchangeability Comet pump
in Ohlsson and Rice
Posted
I'll see what I have for parts for ya.
Carb body governor vein Anything else?