From my PM post and thanks for posting up on the forum too
Hmmm, some of that looks very difficult to hand make and especially the writing on the little tabs for the choke position.
That's a later model saw after Advanced Engine Products took over the O&R stuff. Wonder if they tried to build a better carb as the carb has always been the weak point with these little engines. Very interesting.
Some pics of all of it from different angles and the inside when it's open might help to determine the way to place the fuel lines. The spacer in between the top and bottom is throwing me off a little because of those 2 fuel nipples. Wonder if it's intended to be in and out with out going to that third one you said is near the cylinder.
I'm guessing it sat to close to a fire or something. If it shorted and started melting that would stop very quickly because it's doubtful it could still be sending spark to the plug to keep it running. No running equals no electricity going through it. Although there's always a first time. Remove the flywheel and check the points under the cover. I'd assume those would also burn if the coil melted from the electricity running through it. There isn't much involved there to effect the new coil so I wouldn't be concerned at all about that.
Yes, I'd be willing to send you parts. But, like you stated, shipping multiple packages isn't the best way so I'd suggest you dis-assemble that entire thing until we figure out exactly what all the parts are you need
It would be nice to know where you're located as that can help with who can help you the best if any. Assuming Australia so shipping parts comes into play.
Yes a Tecumseh coil can work but we can find you an O&R coil.
Here's one that will fit. It's a newer style than the one on there but the older ones are much more difficult find
Good blower housing/starter covers are hard to find too as everybody screws them up by drilling out the rivot because they can't figure out how to get the spool out. Sometimes they show up on epay as well.
You will need a new carb diaphragm as well. I have carb diaphragms and probably a coil if they don't want to ship overseas. Might be able to find a starter too but I keep the good ones for my own collection.
PITA isn't it? We need to deal with snow all the time here in New England so the roads get cleared fairly quick. Areas that don't deal with it often can get shut down with a just a little. But either way there are always idiots that believe it's a good idea to go out on the roads with bald tires!
2 of those connections are vents. This allows fuel to fill up into the "hump" on the opposite side of the fill cap. No vent and it would just stay as a bubble of air. The 3rd is the fuel pick up
You can verify which connection is the fuel pick up by having a little fuel in the tank and blowing air into the connection. The only one that bubbles the fuel is the fuel pick up. Fuel pick up to carb. Fuel line connection from one vent to the other
A manual can be found here. Scroll down to Section4. It's near the bottom of that section
I may have a set somewhere. Are yours missing or broken?
I've repaired broken springs by soldering in a new piece of metal for the springs. Your location would be helpful as well. European members may find it easier and less expensive to find a junk Mustang chainsaw for parts.
What tool/engine are you working on? A Chug A Saw?
The bigger 20A engines aren't necessarily my thing but you should have a nice snapping blue spark. A weak orange spark may jump the plug gap out of the engine but maybe not under compression.
Even with bad crank seals it should still pop.
Just thinking out loud
Timing is accomplished by the key in the flywheel so maybe verify the key
maybe another condenser
Cj6 plug sounds right but I'm not 100% sure. I can check an engine to see what's in it
Cranks seals can swelled with DOT3 brake fluid or spray carb cleaner
20A engines have a compression release for starting
Alright. Just couldn't take not being sure any more so had to make 100% sure I'm not imagining the change of that pump impeller done years ago. Went out to open it up and verify.
Yup, it's a new undamaged still pliable perfect fit impeller. Think I got it out of an old drill type pump but that pump had a metal body like the Comet pump does. As far as I can remember anyway. Believe I may have used the metal cover off that drill pump too but now that's really stretching the memory gland! LoL Those type of metal body pumps don't seem to be available anymore but there's GOT to be some still out there somewhere. Unfortunately there are no part numbers or markings on the impeller at all. My eyes are now crap too but looked it over thoroughly with a magnifier.
Years ago I remember replacing one. ( I think) Sucks get'n old cause I can't remember crap now!
What about searching any of those drill powered pumps which look to be about the same size? Think that's what I used but it's certainly possible it was modified to fit too.
That's a first seeing a crankshaft broken like that. Here in the States it would just make sense to replace the whole engine. Probably not as plentiful in Germany so we'll have to get you something. If David @factory has a short block or a crankshaft plus the induction gaskets, that would be easiest way. That rod bearing could be toast as well. I can find something too but shipping to Germany might be expensive.
Drillgines are a PITA to disassemble and assemble. There's always something blocking access to the fasteners
Primerless caps were on early engines too. Have had a couple on circular saws I think but also on later items like the chicken power engines, The fuel tank was mounted higher than the carb so it didn't require priming.
Old Orline Chainsaw
in Ohlsson and Rice
Posted
From my PM post and thanks for posting up on the forum too
Hmmm, some of that looks very difficult to hand make and especially the writing on the little tabs for the choke position.
That's a later model saw after Advanced Engine Products took over the O&R stuff. Wonder if they tried to build a better carb as the carb has always been the weak point with these little engines. Very interesting.
Some pics of all of it from different angles and the inside when it's open might help to determine the way to place the fuel lines. The spacer in between the top and bottom is throwing me off a little because of those 2 fuel nipples. Wonder if it's intended to be in and out with out going to that third one you said is near the cylinder.