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Wallfish

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Posts posted by Wallfish
 
 

  1. I would cut the hole in the decal and trim some of the black circle off the outside. It will look better than a traditional decal IMO. Certainly not the end of the world to change a newer vinyl decal if you decide on an original, just heat and peel it off. Doubt there's much of a market for those decals to have a bunch made and sell, but ya never know


  2. 8 hours ago, factory said:

    if I'm correct there are two that have made it to the US so far

    Just guessing but think I'm the only one to import them so far. I kept one Bridges drill and the other went to Jim @usedtoolman. The same thing for a couple of Turbair Tots.

    And have 1 Kemm rough grass cutter. Which I need to go through as my next project

    I haven't communicated with Jim for a while but it would be nice if he got active on here again.


  3. 29 minutes ago, art faulkner said:

    ,on most carburetors when you  close the butterfly you add more gas

     Not so. Closing the butterfly always allows less air flow through the carb and over the venturi tube and therefore pulls less fuel in. Air flow and fuel flow into the combustion chamber is regulated and controlled by the butterfly on the carb. More air = more fuel which = more volume of the air fuel mixture which = higher rpm

     

    The O&R governor vein needs to be connected directly into the butterfly slot on the carb. As the governor's flag is pushed away from the flywheel by air flow, it closes the butterfly, the faster the rpm, the harder it pushes. The spring on the bottom side of the butterfly shaft regulates this tension and therefore "governs" the engine speed.

    Post a close up picture of that area of your engine


  4. Hmm, just a guess but it probably is a chainsaw engine and put together for a display engine.

    The missing screws for the gearbox is most likely because the chainsaw cover screws that went there would have been too long and hit the tank without the spacing of that cover.

    And guessing the shaft was cut off for the engine to sit on that particular type of tank.

    All just $0.02


  5. Just a single fuel line to the carb.

    The most common issue for a no spark condition is the points. They're located under the flywheel and under that little panel. Clean the contacts well and also clean the spring where it contacts the little post.

    This is a pic of the tank although the trimmer is different

     

    IMG_0680.JPG.473af2b53df5e9f80db87d2c063cc308.JPG


  6. :WMOM:

    Those hedge trimmers are the same type as others and many companies branded them under their own name. The tool part looks complete so that's good and we can help with engine parts if you need them.

    It's rare to have a bad coil but yours looks to be missing the primary and secondary small wires.

    That type of trimmer used a vertical style fuel tank. Good clean original tanks can be difficult to find but making a replacement might be a good idea until you can find one if it matters.

    David @factory should be able to help with dating it.

    Knowing your location would help too


  7. 23 hours ago, Bill42mb said:

    Runs but not quite right

    Most likely the poor performance is leaking crank seals.

    The case vacuum and pressure pulsing is what flexes the diaphragm for pumping fuel. You can try spraying carb cleaner in the ends of the crank to swell the seals in place and a new diaphragm. The induction side seal can be replaced with an O ring

    A sticking ball check valve can be another issue. The weak link in these engines are the carb.

    Adding a small RC type check valve should help too. Haven't tried these yet but just placed an order for them

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/2xPCS-1-8-4mm-Inline-Check-Valve-Fuel-Gas-Air-Ink-Liquid-One-Way-Non-Return/262367806603?hash=item3d1657048b:g:fEwAAOSwBLlVDjyO

 
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