Wallfish

Try these. They seem to be downloading fine for me. Ohlsson & Rice Model 20A-256 Engine Diagram + Parts List.pdf Ohlsson & Rice Challenger Chain Saw Maintenance Manual.pdf

Interesting. And they mention an Impact driver for a tool but never saw one of those Don't eat the exhaust gaskets! the manifold is insulated from the cylinder and crankcase by thick asbestos gaskets which extend out beyond the cylinder flanges

The other thing you can try is adjusting the carb when the generator is under load. But it seems like you got

Glad you got her going! 6300 rpm is typical for these little engines

Ugh Oh, it also looks like the brass needle part with the threads is broken off in the hole of the lower carb body. Maybe just the pic but.. So far you'll probably need diaphragm material and a plastic check valve. Maybe a new needle valve seat too if that piece broke and possibly enough material to cut 2 diaphragms. Not a bad idea to make a new gasket too

Here's my guestimate of the carb situation. But, do those other 2 pieces split as well? Looks like a gasket in between them or that is possibly an additional diaphragm using the case pulse to feed fuel. Line from case to carb but it appears like they might be connected backwards in your other pic, line from tank to carb. One nipple from the tank is the vent because the cap doesn't have a vent. The other nipple is the fuel feed line. With some fuel (or other liquid) in the tank use a piece of fuel line connected to the nipples and blow into them to determine which is which. One should bubble the liquid. (I'm guessing the lower one)That's the fuel line to the carb. The other should push liquid out of the other nipple, (I'm guessing the vertical one) that's the vent and just remains open with nothing attached. This should be the same thing for the tank nipples using a traditional carb too. If using a traditional carb, that case nipple will need to be closed off. ( I don't clearly remember but that tank nipple configuration does seem different for some reason, I'll have to take a look at a saw) It should probably still use the little plastic check valve piece that pinches in between on top of the bottom carb body but I don't see one. If you can't get it to work, I might be interested in trading a traditional carb for that one to play with. I don't have an engine with the case nipple but that shouldn't be to difficult to drill one. Might have a good chainsaw crank end engine to trade the whole thing for but I can look. Maybe I can rebuild one too but the time to do that might be a problem. Try it first and let me know if you're interested in trading and we can go from there if it doesn't work. I'm sure we can get you going either way.

From my PM post and thanks for posting up on the forum too Hmmm, some of that looks very difficult to hand make and especially the writing on the little tabs for the choke position. That's a later model saw after Advanced Engine Products took over the O&R stuff. Wonder if they tried to build a better carb as the carb has always been the weak point with these little engines. Very interesting. Some pics of all of it from different angles and the inside when it's open might help to determine the way to place the fuel lines. The spacer in between the top and bottom is throwing me off a little because of those 2 fuel nipples. Wonder if it's intended to be in and out with out going to that third one you said is near the cylinder.

You can find some on epay https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=orline+manual&_sacat=0 There's not much to those saws so if you post some pics, we can usually help determine what if anything is missing

I have some old Autolite P-6 10 mm plugs bought when I first started collecting

UY-6 are the older 10mm plugs but there are cross references to other manufacturer's plugs. Same for the others Overwhelming majority of mine still have the original Champion plugs in them and fire fine.

I'm guessing it sat to close to a fire or something. If it shorted and started melting that would stop very quickly because it's doubtful it could still be sending spark to the plug to keep it running. No running equals no electricity going through it. Although there's always a first time. Remove the flywheel and check the points under the cover. I'd assume those would also burn if the coil melted from the electricity running through it. There isn't much involved there to effect the new coil so I wouldn't be concerned at all about that. Yes, I'd be willing to send you parts. But, like you stated, shipping multiple packages isn't the best way so I'd suggest you dis-assemble that entire thing until we figure out exactly what all the parts are you need

It would be nice to know where you're located as that can help with who can help you the best if any. Assuming Australia so shipping parts comes into play. Yes a Tecumseh coil can work but we can find you an O&R coil. Here's one that will fit. It's a newer style than the one on there but the older ones are much more difficult find https://www.ebay.com/itm/353723170945?hash=item525b8b4081:g:xewAAOSwpIVhZ4q5 Good blower housing/starter covers are hard to find too as everybody screws them up by drilling out the rivot because they can't figure out how to get the spool out. Sometimes they show up on epay as well. You will need a new carb diaphragm as well. I have carb diaphragms and probably a coil if they don't want to ship overseas. Might be able to find a starter too but I keep the good ones for my own collection. Missing electric plug https://www.ebay.com/itm/353352371490?epid=1312131769&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item5245714d22:g:HcYAAOSwCdhf~wTN&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACoPYe5NmHp%2B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSd0ReTLyM7cxPnI6zs468EPQxa2soXkWJ%2B%2Ft4ICXEn0k%2B3NnkmWnB8y%2BbCXR%2BflIKVjFntJbCOD%2Fnxv%2B9ut4O3XHfjL%2FenIa%2FRvCAtMhxwvAKn%2B%2FQDYL9KXneOPMBzND%2FLi6lqzpLoQc4vtO1JUH0W1I9Aad2EIxuVuAcjay%2Bh9TaFshj2VyDLuqN5lcOJTBYyQ%2FfZ0JR6VdJdhZLymlc%2Bc0h%2FZbFIETfk3y0HG%2BB%2B9QVkJcl6o6WBsunDQB%2FW9cjufiVpDh3RMQ807MAumdM1bn9EVuFUlPu8Ozk3iEwAlvgI2ieUxquKwUfazUtXHzPQ4IZs6v8BIGIqTARBbcqjtxWJVXA3gVzJk28irMnPL0VuI5zM0yirMg6IISILKcHBRGckukDHP9YqhAc1vR3dVKn9x%2B5RHkb%2BXM74%2B%2BXrsITavB00JUPXdT7EJSToWk1R%2B5TbB2AHWeHjoHLKschwYLA%2FP0GTjWtrPD5bfbVeqNX9M4yjYkeE44RqIiftS2%2FW4ChR5AG4wxkbfyrh1vNhGRPTxIdGf1dfmixfPhR2zvzD0ygMmkg3MnfkqAo7j3Oh2WP9TXjMCa1%2FwLWnhYR%2FrM2WBppZlrdaEdgkYVTOvbdNYvTAB%2FsRqm2DMl%2BJ0HLmRGXWLcmc4kUHfy3yf6UHaupAUF%2FYHPMgKuNSIdEFLd4yn3rNdWe4nQpTyV6UOeX35KRq%2Fx5C26SB897LHWWuIzdGtc4ZJlTgiG1%2FUibZJq8R5Ed0QX6zGSZ%2FZBWckY65%2FIqT3ZunV3rQyKzYXK%2Bu%2B6nRIsEKei%2FnA4FvFYBjQhSs%2FUqzDN9mou3P9g6CzhfgU7R2d%2B068IEwPvyxtBe7A%3D%3D|clp%3A2334524|tkp%3ABFBM5PuWotlf

Not too bad, about 8" or so.

The blower housing cover when installed will keep the vane from coming out of the carb. I've never had one come apart while running

Some of mine in action. Post'm up if you have any in action!

There's a set of points under the flywheel which most likely need the contact surfaces cleaned. Pull the flywheel off and have a look or post a pic. Here's a 140 manual. I'm interested in it if you can't get it running and want to sell Cox 140 Owners Manual.pdf

PITA isn't it? We need to deal with snow all the time here in New England so the roads get cleared fairly quick. Areas that don't deal with it often can get shut down with a just a little. But either way there are always idiots that believe it's a good idea to go out on the roads with bald tires!

2 of those connections are vents. This allows fuel to fill up into the "hump" on the opposite side of the fill cap. No vent and it would just stay as a bubble of air. The 3rd is the fuel pick up You can verify which connection is the fuel pick up by having a little fuel in the tank and blowing air into the connection. The only one that bubbles the fuel is the fuel pick up. Fuel pick up to carb. Fuel line connection from one vent to the other A manual can be found here. Scroll down to Section4. It's near the bottom of that section

For once, the seller was right about something being rare ! LoL I don't really search for stuff that often anymore but wish I saw that one.

Did ya get it? That went real cheap. Looks like it would easily convert to an O&R powered winch

I may have a set somewhere. Are yours missing or broken? I've repaired broken springs by soldering in a new piece of metal for the springs. Your location would be helpful as well. European members may find it easier and less expensive to find a junk Mustang chainsaw for parts. What tool/engine are you working on? A Chug A Saw?

Always better to err towards more oil. With that being said and modern oil much better than that old stuff was, I run mine on 32:1 with a quality oil. Non ethanol is always better but they'll run fine on the corny crap too.

Very nice find The original suitcase would be more of a Holy Grail find than the bike itself Never saw one painted before, just chrome but you should be able to tell if it was done with a spray can or possibly a professional factory job The exact light lens replacement might be difficult as well, but you can find those those retro style bicycle generator lights on epay Parts availability is next to nil except for the engine parts. I couldn't find one so had to build one

Hope you're feeling better

The bigger 20A engines aren't necessarily my thing but you should have a nice snapping blue spark. A weak orange spark may jump the plug gap out of the engine but maybe not under compression. Even with bad crank seals it should still pop. Just thinking out loud Timing is accomplished by the key in the flywheel so maybe verify the key maybe another condenser Cj6 plug sounds right but I'm not 100% sure. I can check an engine to see what's in it Cranks seals can swelled with DOT3 brake fluid or spray carb cleaner 20A engines have a compression release for starting