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Anglo Traction

72 Raider 12 finally gets some attention

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Having rescued my Raider back in 2009, I gave the engine a quality Top End overhaul amongst the full Tractor refurb work.

I thought I should just give it a check over and flush the Fuel system as well (I haven't cleaned the engine either)-

DSC01583.JPG

It's always been good starting and running, but because I didn't sort the Throttle Shaft wear at the time, it has occasionally shown signs of uneven running.

On removal of the Carb, I found very little rubbish in the Bowl and a tiny globule of water (2mm ball bearing size)

I found traces of oil residue around the Carb inlet Choke Plate area and so I suspect the diaphragm in the Pump may be on it's way out.

Having already played it safe, I had ordered 2 replacement Fuel Pumps to service both Tractors and as some of you may recall my Thread on Redsquare covering the Full #26 Carb rebuild, I shall be fitting that (on right in lower pic) while I rebuild the old one (original Muffler is going away for Bead Cleaning and I'll repaint it) .

While I'm at it, I shall fit a Fuel drain point in the system so I can empty it for over wintering storage and to Prime the system again.  Should save fiddling around trying to get fuel through.  

DSC01584.JPG

 

 

   

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On 1 August 2016 at 8:31 PM, Stormin said:

I've fitted boat engine priming bulbs to mine, Richard. Just a squeeze is all you need. :thumbs:

 

I've done the same on my Bolens HT23 where the fuel tank is located below the fuel pump. Works great and means the engine starts instantly rather than turning over until the fuel pulls the fuel

 

Iain

 

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On 01/08/2016 at 4:38 PM, meadowfield said:

good word Richard, glad to have you back - love your meticulous rebuilds and polishing! :D

 

Thanks Mark, been busy and had problems with Supporter renewal . Got some catching up to do.

 

On 01/08/2016 at 8:31 PM, Stormin said:

I've fitted boat engine priming bulbs to mine, Richard. Just a squeeze is all you need. :thumbs:

 

Hi Norm, Yep, I remember them being discussed. Great as you and Iain say for low placed Tanks. Both of mine are Dash Mounted Tanks (pre 76), so have the benefit of a little gravity.

I only need to prime the fuel system when I replenish it after winter storage, so my cunning plan of a drain tap also allows me to refill from that Drain Tap-

 

DSC01589.JPG

 

I fixed it at the lowest point and out of the way. I have a small Model Aircraft Fuel Pump that I can connect to the tap, and with the Fuel Tank Valve closed, I can route new fuel to the Pump and Carb.

I can then open the Tank Valve and pump fuel up past the Filter (where there is always a bit of an Air Lock) until it reaches the Tank.

This way, I remove all the air from the system. Well, that's the plan anyway.

The little Fuel Tap needed a few mods, i.e. machining the Inlet Spigot Barbs and tapping it to a size that will fit into some thick walled copper tube to make the 'T' piece.

Bit of a challenge setting it up in the Lathe-

DSC01585.JPG

 

New Pump is on ready. The old pump is still ok! and can only assume the oil residue is Redex that I add to the Fuel (no smell of fuel in the Crankcase Oil) .

I suppose nearly 7 years will naturally cause some to settle there from Fuel evaporation via the Bowl vent. Anyway, just waiting on the Muffler and then check it out and adjust.

The old original Carb is done ready, so I will put it back on this Tractor and will sell the Spare rebuilt Carb -

DSC01590.JPG

One thing you can't see is the addition of a 1/4" thick spacer between the Carb and Inlet mounting face. I had a spare unused one (Paxolin) from an old Gasket set.

These are fitted to some later engines and are supposed to reduce heat transference to the Carb and it lengthens the Inlet distance which allows the fuel to vaporise better before entering the Cylinder.  We shall see how much better this engine runs with it.

Regards     

 

 

    

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The spacer sounds like a good idea, it will be interesting to see how well it works..

 

It's good to have you back Richard, don't forget I still have that rear lift cable sleeve stashed away for you..

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3 hours ago, Stormin said:

I could be interested in the rebuilt carb. :thumbs:

 

I'll bear you in mind Norm, have someone already drooling over it amongst loads of other parts, so have to give him the option first.

 

1 hour ago, Ian said:

The spacer sounds like a good idea, it will be interesting to see how well it works..

 

It's good to have you back Richard, don't forget I still have that rear lift cable sleeve stashed away for you..

I've had a spacer on my C-120 since I finished it. As it runs so nicely anyway, I may not notice it when this one starts up?.

Thanks Ian, now I've got myself reasonably sorted out, I'll arrange to pay you a visit. Will PM you, and I may well show up this weekend!.

Regards    

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Little bit of a delay with tidying up this job. After having the Muffler Glass Beaded, I ended up with about 30 pin holes to weld up and smooth off.

Got it all fitted ready and all I could get was a few Firing Revs and it just kept dying?.

Checked it all over again with a Spark Tester (ok) as I was getting fuel ok and had fitted a new genuine Kohler Fuel Filter to eradicate any air locks. .

Checked the Coil (original) again and found that the Ohms resistance reading had dropped from 13 to 8.65 (when cold) since I last did it (1st Aug)!. 

So it wasn't the Pump or Carb, it was the old Coil slowly and inconsistently breaking down.

Fortunately back in 2009, I bought a used good spare that came off a much later Kohler.

Checked it again before fitting and gave 3.6 Ohms on the Primary and 13.45 on the secondary circuit.

Found it had 5mm threads on the +/- Posts and struggled to find some nuts n spring washers in my predominantly Imperial workshop.

All fitted up and showing the Spacer 'tween the Carb n Intake-

DSC01596.JPG

 

The old 30+ year old Spark Plug is still clean and good, but I have fitted a new RH10C to ensure all is ok when I tune it up.

So I have now got it back up and running and presently resetting the Idle and Max speeds using the Laser Tacho -

 

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Soon as it is running sweet, I'll pull the Carb and refit/tune the original.......Got there in the end!...... and I've found I cannot believe something is good/ok, even when it has been checked!. 

 

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Just started with the same Pump and Fuel system changes on the '74' C-120.

It's also nearly up to 5 hours running since I fully rebuilt the Re-bored engine with the re-ground Crank.

Wanted to check for the amount of cast iron dust in the sump while I drained the oil, so I 'Jacked up' the front end and got most of the oil out.

I then put a blast of air down through the Pump aperture to get most of the residue to the back of the Sump/Pan, followed by a small amount of clean oil and left to drain again.

Just out of curiosity, I thought I'd have a look inside to check how clean it was with my handy 'Scope on a Rope'- 

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All looked fine and took a screen shot of the Con Rod end, Cap/bolt and the Oil Way for the Crank journal . Minimum focusing distance is about 8 cm-

Engiine check.JPG

 

Not the best image copy, but a handy piece of cheap gear. Just the Drain Tap to fit and she's good to go for hard run.

 

 

 

      

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Wow! I wish I had the time and mind set to put that much work into my engines. I'm just about to start rebuilding a kohler magnum and hope to get it half as good as your k series.

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On 26/09/2016 at 8:39 PM, the showman said:

I like the " scope on a rope " I could do with one of those

Quite a few versions around Chris. Mine is about 4 years old now. Still available and now with 15metres of cable. Usual disclaimer, but here is a -LINK- to an example.

 

On 27/09/2016 at 8:42 AM, S1g said:

Wow! I wish I had the time and mind set to put that much work into my engines. I'm just about to start rebuilding a kohler magnum and hope to get it half as good as your k series.

 

I'm sure you're familiar with the Kohlers in general. Great to work on and parts available. I had no option for the level of work I had to do on this one, as I was sold a Dud-

DSC00584.JPG.  

 

It was well worth the time and money and the re-bore, re-grind was only £67 at the time and it was a quality job/service.

 

Finished the jobs on this engine now. Drain/Priming additions saved a lot of time cranking etc and fired up in a few seconds of cranking

Planning a few (bolt-on) mods to the Clutch system on both Tractors next-

DSC01622.JPGDSC01623.JPG

 

 

 

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