C-120 refurb.

[ranger 373]

A simple link, hinged at one end, which can act like a safety stop on a vehicle lift. If it's not locked out by the cable, it is pushed open as the hitch passes, then locks the hitch when it drops back. To release, you raise the hitch, to clear the latch, then pull the cable. An advantage is, if the lift fails, You grab the plough, lift it till it engages the latch, then trundle back to the beer tent.

[Stormin 4,458]

Been working on a latch system.

 

Mk 1

 

 

 

 

This got modded a bit, then two more made. Finally Mk 4.

 

 

This works the best I can get.

Now all I have to do is work out a way to lift it from the tractor seat.

[ranger 373]

Coming along nicely Norm, if you slot the opening the slot hitch pin locks in towards the outer end, an upside down 'L', then when it's locked at the end of the slot it can't disengage, but if you lift the hitch slightly, the latch will lift with no 'load' on the cable etc.

[Triumph66 1,256]

Tidy workmanship Norm.

[Stormin 4,458]

  I understand what you say, Doug. As things are it holds ok. Sometimes the plough will stay up without the latch. Linked relays may help. The purpose of the latch is to take some weight off the actuator. You'll notice the latch is not very thick and the slot end close to the top. The end will bend up if the actuator ram is inadvertently extended with the latch down. So no chance of damaging the actuator or tractor. Maybe a micro switch operated by the latch could be an idea. Kills the current to actuator if latch not raised.

 It's all in development for now and giving the old brain some exercise. All good fun.

[the showman 4,074]

Looks a work of art Norm, at least the next one will be easy. 

 

[Stormin 4,458]

Next one?

[Stormin 4,458]

More progress today. Made up a lift cable for the latch. Took a bit of fiddling, thinking and time getting things to work as I wanted, but got there in the end.

 

Latch end.

 

 

 

T'other end.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[the showman 4,074]

Looks like you got it sorted Norm, well done mate

[Stormin 4,458]

It's standing with the plough on and up now. I'll take it off the bench tomorrow and drive round a bit and see how it goes.  If all ok I'll get my tame ex-BT mate to wire it up.

 

[Stormin 4,458]

This morning I decided to make yet another latch. So I did. It was a nice fit as well. Yes, I did say was. I shall elucidate.

 

The actuator is temporary wired to a 3 position switch on the right hand side of instrument panel. Nicely placed for operating with my right hand, while with my left, I can pull the latch cable. Simples! There is one problem with this arrangement. The inability of seeing if the latch has properly cleared the peg it locks on. And yes. You may have guessed. After two or three successful tries, the latch didn't clear and I had a bent latch. Again!

 

Latch removed, repaired and replaced and a rethink. Micro switch needed to stop actuator extending till latch clear. Only two wires are in use from actuator to switch. One for up. One for down. Problem there is if one can't pass current, neither can t'other. Don't ask why not. I'm no electrician. So I decided to leave it for my ex-BT mate to sort out.

 

Meanwhile, I decided to do a mod I've been meaning to do, since my first ploughing match.

 

That is, change this high back seat that restricts view and movement to the rear.....

 

 

For this one off the C-81.

 

 

This makes vision and access to the plough etc. much better.

 

Now instead of operating the latch cable, I can reach the latch with my left hand, lift it and tell if it's clear.  I don't need the cable. All that work and headache for nothing.

 

 

Now you can all have a good laugh.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[pmackellow 2,738]

Laugh ??  Us ??  Surely not mate, it looks a good job done

[Stormin 4,458]

  Today all the electrics wired up and working well. The only problem with this set up is you've no control over plough depth. With the tractor with plough attached on the bench. Plough going down over the end, I worked out it was going in about 7 - 8 inches. So a think was in order.

 The clevis that attaches actuator ram to hitch is about 3 - 4 inch long. So I thought i'd drill some more holes to give a selection of positions on the hitch.

 

 

The end hole, from the right side of photo', is the original, giving 7 - 8 inch depth. I don't think I'll ever be ploughing that deep.

 

2nd from end gives about 6" depth. That's about right.

 

3rd hole gives 5" and I don't think the last hole will ever be used. Not for ploughing anyway.

 

 All that's left now is to try things out.

[C-101plowerpower 548]

Looking good, but you say you wont be plowing 7to8 inches deep, how deep do you have to plow because i have to plow that deep

[Stormin 4,458]

Just what my farmer mate told me, Koen. And he judges at ploughing matches.

[ranger 373]

16 hours ago, Stormin said:

  Today all the electrics wired up and working well. The only problem with this set up is you've no control over plough depth. With the tractor with plough attached on the bench. Plough going down over the end, I worked out it was going in about 7 - 8 inches. So a think was in order.

 The clevis that attaches actuator ram to hitch is about 3 - 4 inch long. So I thought i'd drill some more holes to give a selection of positions on the hitch.

 

 

The end hole, from the right side of photo', is the original, giving 7 - 8 inch depth. I don't think I'll ever be ploughing that deep.

 

2nd from end gives about 6" depth. That's about right.

 

3rd hole gives 5" and I don't think the last hole will ever be used. Not for ploughing anyway.

 

 All that's left now is to try things out.

 

Are you on 12v or 24v Norm ? I found the speed and power much higher on 24v. How about a depth control wheel on the plough, then you can use a slotted,or swinging link to allow 'float,. Without float I kept losing traction. I've found some micro switches, I'll pop them in the post with a 'spare' motor unit in case you strip the gears, or ? The ram part just unscrews from the casing, I find it better to grip the ram at the outer end rather than close to the casing. You  may be able to swap the motor for a 12v one if you open up the casing, there are screws under the indentations if I remember correctly. These units have a feedback pot fitted, so you could in theory use something like a 'servo' tester (radio control enthusiasts will know about these ) to set your position and hold it, next step, electronic draft control. 

[hpearce 40]

Horticultural ploughing rules and advice are here:-

http://www.vhgmc.co.uk/horticultural-ploughing/

 

 

[Stormin 4,458]

 12v Doug.  I'll have a think about a depth control wheel. I'll see how things go in use. Stripping gears is the thing that worries me a bit. A spare actuator would be handy thanks. And thanks for the info etc.

[Stormin 4,458]

9 hours ago, hpearce said:

Horticultural ploughing rules and advice are here:-

http://www.vhgmc.co.uk/horticultural-ploughing/

 

 

 

Thanks for the link. I'll take a look. Horticultural ploughing is rare around here, but I'm hoping to drum up interest.

[Stormin 4,458]

  Well things had a good testing at Rural Past Times. Things went OK, except I broke the latch again.   This gave a problem when for traveling around. The plough was scraping on the ground. So the last hole in the clevis was used. I had to do a bit of modification to the hitch with a hacksaw borrowed off The Showman. Sometimes the plough would stay up without the latch and sometimes not. I got round that problem by keeping an eye on the plough and raising it if it started to lower.

  As for ploughing things went well. The plough going in enough to turn the ground over. The actuator lifted the plough out without any problem. 

  I must say I'm quite pleased  with things so far. Even with only my second attempt at trying to be a ploughman.  

[pmackellow 2,738]

4 minutes ago, Stormin said:

  Well things had a good testing at Rural Past Times. Things went OK, except I broke the latch again.   This gave a problem when for traveling around. The plough was scraping on the ground. So the last hole in the clevis was used. I had to do a bit of modification to the hitch with a hacksaw borrowed off The Showman. Sometimes the plough would stay up without the latch and sometimes not. I got round that problem by keeping an eye on the plough and raising it if it started to lower.

  As for ploughing things went well. The plough going in enough to turn the ground over. The actuator lifted the plough out without any problem. 

  I must say I'm quite pleased  with things so far. Even with only my second attempt at trying to be a ploughman.  

 

And no fat bugger bending your plough this year Norm