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Anglo Traction

Downsizing in Metalwork

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Looking to finish this 'Mothballed' 1 inch Scale design TE project while I still only need the occasional use of a weak Magnifying Glass !., so it's top of the jobs list now. 

 

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I've been recently making loads of small Nuts and Bolts for parts that were temporarily fitted. Smallest size is 0.0669" (1.62mm) AF Steel hexagon rod with 12BA thread.

The metal plate in the Pic is one of 3 Oil Lamp brackets that require these small bolts-

 

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On 16/04/2016 at 6:53 PM, neil said:

This project is just something else Richard, did you make the tiny hammer & other tools?

Yes Neil and thanks all.

Used the 'Accessories' Drawings from a 1 1/2" Scale Alchin TE design for dimensions and reduced them all by 2/3rds, as well as the Fowler style Lamps etc .

Got to make spanners and sockets for the tiny nuts and bolts yet.

 

On 16/04/2016 at 8:19 PM, Stormin said:

That looks like the one my father built.

Your Father's (very nice example) Engine is a Henry Greenly design Norm. I believe it was published in 1933 in Model Engineer Mag. Based on a Road Tractor design like the Ramsomes (solid Flywheel and Canopy). Shame you had to part company with it, but I may have the same issue at some stage.

 

I've used Len Mason's Minnie TE design and Castings. I've heavily altered the design to represent an 1890's version and increased the detail (some may say foolishly with the extra work involved). 

 

On 17/04/2016 at 9:24 AM, expeatfarmer said:

Do you by any chance have a set of instructions on how to fire it up?

Yes I do, I have the Book by John Haining on Model  T.E. Construction and I have L,C Mason's book on Construction of my engine. Both include Chapters on setting the Valve Timing, running and maintaining them.

Will look to acquire some good Welsh Steam Coal from a Local Model Rail Club when I'm ready.

Good thing is, I went and bought a professionally built Boiler back in 1985, so I have a Proper Boiler Certificate for it.

Wasn't competent enough, or had the equipment to make my own at the time...really bumps up the value though !.

Regards  

 

 

 

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i had a suffolk ploughing tractor a few years ago, it was supposed to be easy to steam but i always struggled even with high quality steam coal...your engine do look like true works of art

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On 20/04/2016 at 8:22 AM, expeatfarmer said:

Thanks for that I have ordered a copy of the Haining book, I have two 1" scale engines that I have not tried to fire up as I have no instructions. Both have copper boilers. 

Thanks..

Will be good to get them working under steam again. I'm sure you'll do all the safety checks first with old engines.

Often the rubber seals like on the Sight Glass are perished and suspect the Seals/Glands on the Piston, Valve and Regulator Rods  may need checking.

They were likely packed with Graphited Yarn. Not sure how/if Norm's Dad's Engine had the Steam Oil administered for the Piston and Valve?, as I can't see a lubrication system

in the pics. Hope the book helps.

 

On 21/04/2016 at 8:02 PM, woz said:

i had a suffolk ploughing tractor a few years ago, it was supposed to be easy to steam but i always struggled even with high quality steam coal...your engine do look like true works of art

Some engines like to have a mix of Coal and Charcoal, or just the latter to produce good heat. Also the Grate gaps size can be the cause, or so I have read!.

 

Done a little more on mine. Made up all the Pipe work and fittings for the Water Pump-

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Edited by Anglo Traction

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Now that my Username has turned green again, I can post a few progress pics. Much of the work is hidden like machining Keyway slots in the shafts, but finished the Damper Rod Control Lever and the Oil Boxes for the Axle bearings-

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Set the positions of Gears on the Selector and drilled the quadrant for the locking pin. Finished the Coal Bunker Division Plate with the addition of a Sluice Door (sorry it's out of focus, but the depth of field is shallow)-

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Tiny Caps made for the various 'Oiler Cups' (used an old Flint Lighter Wheel for the miniature Knurling)-

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Just 2 more to make for the Second Shaft and trim the Gear Cover for access-

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Obtained the Pressure Gauge (0-100psi). real Watchmaker stuff this is, it is only 1/2" diameter (12.7mm)!. Closest to scale that is possible and still work properly-

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Just finishing off some Steering modifications to the front end generally known as the 'Spud Ring' and Pan which is another deviation from the original design-

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It's making a nice change playing with the Machines/Tooling and making the parts, but still loads to do.

  

 

 

 

  

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On 29/01/2018 at 10:42 PM, Alan said:

 More awesome work Richard. 

Thanks Alan, been very impressed with your work as well......  I'm glad to have been able to get back into this project.

 

Haven't been able to spend much time in the workshop as it's been too cold lately. Can't justify heating it. The Engine has been reduced to a pile of bits now. Lots of parts and jobs to do while reassembling and prepping for paint etc and seemingly relentless additions to the Jobs List.

I'm going to join a Model Engineering Club so I can have their Inspectors check the already certified Boiler over while it is in this condition-

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I would prefer to have this with a Current Certificate when completed in addition to the original Boiler Certificate.

 

Today, I finished drilling and tapping the last of the tiny holes in the Cylinder Block for (18) 14BA Screws for the Insulation Cover Plate. I only had Cheese Head Screws and so had to machine each one down to a rough Round Head shape to finish properly when I finally fit them-

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I'm only too pleased to have been able to do all the machining work on this accurately, and Drilling, Tapping etc without breaking a Drill or Tap. Just a bit of filing and shaping to finish and it will be ready to fit onto the Boiler.   

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16 minutes ago, Alan said:

14BA. :blink::bow:  I've drilled and tapped 12BA, they were bad enough. :(

Yeah, I agree Alan. It's a bit nerve wracking with the small sizes. I used a 0.8mm drill for 90% thread engagement and started each thread with a taper Tap, then second and bottom held lightly in a Pin Chuck so the Tap would slip rather than break when it resisted. I've broken 3 Taps on the whole project. 2 x 10BAs in steel and dropped the other :(.

Think I've nearly done all the Tapping work on parts for this thankfully. Just Nuts and Bolts to make. 

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