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Hi all I was at Chillingham Vintage rally Wooler Northumberland Yesterday, A very hot day , and a small section of Horticultural exhibits as well cars, lorrys, motorbikes Stationery engines .etc a great day out and enjoyed by all, This rally finishes with with a Tractor parade along the horizon line . Some pictures of the show Hello again just a though the last picture shows my Green Vivian Loyd Scrub cutter next to the Bracken cutter Could it be a case of are you my Daddy I Will let you guys decide that one

Hi all some pictures from Wooler on Sunday

Here is the little tiger I believe it’s a later mode type 219 350w shroud says compact 3 bought a few new diaphragms from a member on here carb thread was Awsome had to do all of it and went off without a hitch! String thing was a bit tricky but a few tries got it done;) once I get this oil thing figured I’ll start it and make a video!:) I ordered some synthetic and some 30wt I’ll try them both and see thanks again love the input!

That is a very nice condition later Tiny Tiger with the larger gas/fuel tank. I will check the manual for mine, but I wouldn't recommend using a 350W load continuously, something like a 250W maximum load for continuous use would be better to avoid damage (which is what the early ones were rated for). Those starters can be tricky to repair till you get used to fixing them. David

Hi Richard, Thanks for that link, 1966 & 1HP makes more sense, the earliest O&R parts list I have mentioning the compact III (1HP) is dated November 1965, that doesn't imply that they didn't introduce it earlier that year of course. The information in the link seems mostly fine, I will see if I can find any more reference to the 16:1 ratio in any of my original O&R literature, I just checked a few yesterday. One thing I don't agree on in the link is the last comment " Used O & R model airplane engine " I think it should really say something like 'used O&R compact industrial engine' as the O&R Compact was developed as an industrial engine (although model makers did & still do use them for other things), here is something I found from an archive document relating to that; I remembered recently buying a parts list dated Apr 1964, hopefully this scan from it helps better with the (early) original ratios, I will edit the calculated 10.67:1 ratio to 11:1 in yesterday's post. Of course modern oils allow higher ratio to be used, as has already been said; David

I've seen that Bug before, Nigel. I think it's been resprayed.

What you have said is very relevant; When some of these blokes were nicked it was because they sold a Honda mower to someone who went and ordered some parts for it Hondas had it recorded as stolen against the chassis / engine number. When the police raided their sales place here in Kent they found machinery stolen from as far afield as Cornwall and Leicestershire. The caravan they were using as an office had been nicked from a site in Cornwall! They were also selling stolen stuff at the big agricultural sales at Wincanton where they were exchanging machines stolen in Kent with similar stolen in the West Country. Most of our stuff is now postcoded but it's too late for the tractor! Often in your area Wristpin, New Romney and Greatstone, RH&DR etc and will be going up the lighthouse there tomorrow with grandchild . TCS.

When I had the business we used to put the purchaser's postcode on various places on machines - an obvious couple to be found and some not so obvious ones to hopefully remain hidden. We had a ride-on in for service from a new customer some 30 miles away and one of my mechanics called me into the workshop querying the postcode on the job card with one of the ones he'd found on the machine. We had sold the machine to an address a couple of miles up the road and it had been stolen three years previously. To cut a long story short it turned out the present owner had bought it for cash from "a man in a van" and his father in law had also bought one from the same man - also stolen!

That's good, around here if there isn't full sun the types of native grasses we have do not grow in any shade

I'm not sure where you found that information but there were no 1HP O&R engines in the early 1960's (only 3/4HP) and the only mention of a 16:1 ratio is for the much later 1970's 1.6HP Model 20A engine, there seems to be a lot of incorrect information around for these engines. Here are some old fuel/oil mix ratios from the various O&R manuals & literature I have, the ratio changed over the years; 1961 & 1962: 3/4 pint #30 SAE oil per gallon (11:1 ratio), these early compact engines where rated at 3/4HP. 1963: 1/3 pint #30 SAE heavy duty oil per gallon (24:1 ratio), again only 3/4HP compact engines available then. 1966: 1/3 pint #30 SAE heavy duty oil per gallon (24:1 ratio), for all 3/4HP, 0.85HP, 1HP compact engines. From the NIAE test report (published 1964), "the petrol/oil mixture has been changed to 24 parts petrol to 1 part oil and the recommended grade of oil is heavy duty M.S. type SAE 30" (was 3/4 pint to 1 gallon when they did the testing in Jan-May 1963) many design changes were made following this report. There was also a mention of chrome cylinder linings, here is the information I have for some of the O&R engines; 1963: Early compact engines had a steel sleeve cylinder with chrome piston rings (earlier information from 1960 doesn't mention the rings being chromed) 1975: Model 13B engine (1HP) has steel cylinder liner with special alloy cast iron rings, and to confuse things more the brochure (undated) for the newer Model 20A engine (1.6HP) gives a 16:1 fuel/oil ratio using either SAE 30AD or MS motor oil, these engines had a chromed cylinder bore. Forum recommendation for fuel/oil mix ratio; We have been recommending a 32:1 fuel/oil mix on the forum for using modern 2-stroke oils, I have been using a high quality mineral based 2-stroke oil from Stihl, another forum user had problems with the synthetic version of 2-stroke oil from Stihl, see this thread; Obviously you may need to experiment to find something suitable that is available where you are, but I do not recommend oils sold by petrol stations for use with scooters (tried some of that in a Villiers engine many years ago, it was far to smoky), the best stores to try and find something suitable would be a local store that sells & repair garden or ground maintenance equipment, chainsaws etc. Note the all the O&R compact engines & the newer Model 20A have seals made from rubber and also on earlier production engines they used plastic cages for the bearings, these can be damaged by certain additives in some types of fuel/oil. Also if you intend to store the engine for any long period it's recommended to drain all fuel and to put some oil down the spark-plug hole, pull the starter a few times to coat the cylinder & piston and leaving the piston blocking the exhaust ports. I must admit I don’t know if the fuel sold in the UK has ethanol in it, I guess that is something else to look out for which may or may not have harmful additives. David I forgot to add that you should check out the carb repair thread if you haven't already and it's a good idea to clean out any old crumbly filter foam from the air filter housing, it can damage the engine if any of it gets sucked in. David

Knocked up another one last week. I can now tow two tractors at once. Now all I have to do is try towing two at once.

mature gentleman,