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Pictures after work carried out -

Hi all, I’m back! I have my Westwood all up and running with new pulleys and drive belt. I would like to say thank you to HeadExam and everyone who helped me to try and find the right pulleys for my old Gazelle. I have recently started her up and put the cutter deck on to cut some grass as well as a nice ride around the garden. I’m glad she’s back up and running better than ever as there is no more loud noise from the old belt and pulleys. I have also made a video as requested from MyOldMachine user, WestwoodGazelle of the Gazelle starting up and running as well as general information about the mower. I have replaced the pulleys, drive belt, and the lights on the Gazelle after being out of action for a year, and currently changing the oil after a nice long run yesterday (video that has been posted below). Since I have owned the Gazelle I have replaced the air filter (Ernest Doe staff member laughed at the old air filter as it appeared to be an old sponge someone had cut to use, currently has proper Briggs air filter for correct engine), battery (had an old car battery fitted prior to purchasing and now currently correct battery stated in mower manual), replaced points and condenser (when first purchased had trouble starting engine and then after fifteen minutes of use engine would cut out, now starts fairly on the key with no cut out), added new seat (old seat was taped up and sticky/had perished, so painted metal seat to stop rust and put new seat on), repainted cutter deck/eradicated all rust (probably ruined the deck but have protected it from rust), numerous amounts of oil changes (first oil I bought the mower with was black and sludgy), and finally have purchased new pulleys and drive belt with new lights. So it should run ok, if not I don’t know what to do next haha. Hope you enjoy the videos (forgot to show video of lights working so have included another video) Much appreciated. Thanks for reading. Pictures below showcase the work I had carried out a week ago as well as a video of the Gazelle running.

Well it looks like you have it sorted nicely

Having a clear out of the workshop and this is the first of the machines to go. In the process of installing a later Transmission. Why ?, well the old original one (5091 version) developed a tiny weep on the r/h axle seal and we all know they don't cure themselves. I suspected a worn needle bearing, so I checked it for up and down sloppy movement, as I won't sell it like that - Barely 0.007" up and down total with all the weight taken on the Jack, which is not that bad. I'm not happy just replacing the seal, so I'm going to rebuild this one and install the 103916 unit which is unmolested, clean shafts 'n' keyways, no leaks and had clean oil drained out of it- It will be used for mowing and towing duties, so it will have a heavy duty WH tow hitch fitted. Old tranny is on the left, replacement should be fitted this evening and I'll make the new woodruff keys over the weekend hopefully (in between watching Singapore GP)-

Joseph made a video of some of the work we did on this tractor. We still have work to do on the carb and governor

Should have added these photo's to my edit of the 24th August. Winch in use while pulling / cutting trees down on friends land a few years ago.

Woops, I forgot I said I would take some pictures however I didn't say which weekend One side Back, not too much to see Front, even less to see Other side, with switch in the jack up position Switch in the down position I forgot just how heavy this jack is to move around Iain

The engine may sort out on its own with a little more use and clean petrol, may want to use a fuel system cleaner a well.

Sorry for delay in reply. Nope, not a chainsaw. It is a Mower, but I don't think they are common in UK?. It was a bit of a wreck and on it's second engine (1965 mower model). Judging by the damage to the rather massive Spindle housing, it had a catastrophic bearing failure as well when the original engine let go of it's bits. Presumably, it had new bearings fitted when the engine was replaced, and it was these bearings which had also failed and I was tasked with extracting them for replacement- It took an awful lot of pressure just to get the 25mm diameter spindle out. I then had the same problem with the bearings and found they had been bonded in to take up the gap caused by the old seized ones wearing the Housing bore out- Found the housing bore was nearly 0.4mm larger after cleaning it out. That gave me a problem, as the usual Loctite bearing fit fluids could only cope with much smaller gaps. Searched and found one that specified use for up to 0.5mm gaps, obtained new quality bearings and had to make a circular wire spacer to hold the lower bearing away from a worn lip in the bottom of the housing- Reassembled and bolted up under tension to ensure everything was aligned while the joint fluid was setting. Installed the completed Housing back onto the Deck and fitted the massive sharpened/balanced blade. All now smooth spinning ready for running- It was then that I had to tear into the engine to find why no spark. Not impressed with the motor's design, over complicated and lots of work removing bits to get at the coil etc. Took a 4 foot (1.22mtrs) scaffold bar on both the Flywheel nut and then again to get the Flywheel off the keyed taper. Anyway, all sorted and got it running despite the iffy Carb (now you know where that Fuel Tap I fixed went to)- This machine had a serious impact on it's left rear corner. You can just see the (good) Ali weld repair bottom right. It had damaged the Drive unit housing etc and I had to pull that straight and fix the pulleys etc- So there it is, a 1965 SABO rotary mower with drive unit. I only have to fix the handles on and it's ready for testing and fine tuning. It has no remote throttle on the handle, only a lever that lifts the drive unit clear of the ground!. The throttle lever is on the Carb!. Interesting machine and a mildly enjoyable challenge, but give me an old british job with old whitworth spanners and a good chance of obtaining spares and info. Which spookily is what is lined up for me next edit- Mods can move this to another forum as it is a pedestrian op machine if desired. I kept it here for continuity Regards

Had a good day in the workshop today. Got the swivels finished. Turned down to fit through the arm and drilled and tapped for securing bolts. Forgot to take a photo. Spent sometime thinking how and where to mount them. Eventually decided where on the arm and then rigged up a temporary mount for the top one. Couple of nuts with the corners turned off to clear the arm. They will be pinned. I can set the depth down to 8-1/2 inch. Plenty deep enough and I very much doubt I'll plough that deep.

Superb! looks like my copy, must've made about 5 now. The square holes are not fun to file!

All done, I'm pleased with that.

The choke flap is fully closed so I don't believe it is the issue with this. The tank to carb gasket does seem to weep a spot of fuel so my thinking is that it is also sucking air and preventing the fuel from being drawn up from the upper tank chamber. Am I right in assuming this ?