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It looks ok now Norm, bit of a state when I started the long job, but should be good for a few seasons if cleaned properly and carefully. Been sorting the Anti scalp Roller. I Machined up 2 flanged Bushes to fit the bearings and the fabricated Pin. I used Cast Iron and as many will know, it produces a lot of fine particles of black dust. So having mentioned this in a PM to Alan, here is a pic of the result that a few carefully placed Magnets wrapped in a plastic bag can do to confine it- It catches most of it and allows a quick clean up after. Finished Bushes and a sliding fit on the 1/2" dia pin- As I'm pinching the flanged Bushes against the Roller bearings between the 2 mower brackets I needed to thread the end of the Pin 3/8" x 18 UNC for a nylock Nut. Rest of the parts and the old Pin - Trial fit and all good..... back to cleaning and painting. Regards

Just a photo of the wheel change. Been working/thinking of a hitch arrangement. It won't be going on the C-125 as shown, but on the C-121 (Black Horse) with electric lift. That will allow ground clearance to be adjusted on the move. The wheels will most likely stay in the raised position, as shown.

Heres the decals fitted. Also tonight I prepped and primed a chain case cover.

Number 3 grandson and I had a bit of a trial run yesterday. Proved one thing. It wont pick up hay as is. Builds up and blocks the front intake. One good thing we found out, was that it doesn't have to be run at full revs to suck a rag up and sling it out the shute. With the rear wheels removed, all the weight of the engine is at the rear. I wasn't happy with that so today I refitted the rear wheels and removed the front ones. That puts all the weight on the drawbar. Much better. When the trailer is attached and filling, the balance should be improved. Also the wheels can be raised or lowered. This may give some adjustment on uneven ground. If I get chance I may try this set up out tomorrow. Oh! And I'll take a photo or two, Chris.

Last year on my annual trip down south, one of the things I returned with was this Billy Goat. There is a thread on it in Pedestrian machines. As you can see I'd been having a bit of a play with it. Today I dug it out of it's hiding place had more of a play with it. First I amputated it's back legs wheels. I then found these two pieces of scrap, plus the jaw plates removed from my Saxon trailer. They became this towing attachment for the front of the Billy Goat. Next job was a rear towing attachment. A length of 1"x1". Another of 1"x2". A couple of U bolts. Tow ball plus a spare spacer and I had this. At end of play this is how things look. There's still more to do and one or two alterations but so far so good. All made from scrap lying around, so zero cost. No Billy Goats were harmed and if needs be can be put back as was. To be continued.........

It's not a huffy or a mustang it might be a fall I've never seen anything like this one ,it's got an inch box section chassis, solid front wheels blow up rears I think it should be red and white

Many happy returns of the day Nigel, have a good day mate.

A very good show in deepest West Sussex visited today. Horticultural machines were with the stationary engines (separate section next year ?). Here's some photos... And some more including some bloke in a red t shirt who looks vaguely familiar...

Think you gents have it! Saw the seat and looked for the rest!

Happy Birthday, Birthday Boy.

No mate

Many Happy Returns Nigel, Have a good one.

Happy birthday mate

Happy birthday nigel

Haven't been on the forum for a while, but I'll be following this with interest. If it turns out half as good as your cub then the results will be amazing.

Happy Birthday Nigel🎉

All the Best, Nigel. Have a good day.

That looks about finished and looking very nice.

Looks brilliant Gareth.

And some more including my vehicle of the show, a really nicely restored Ford Transit Mark 1 drop side pickup...

Good luck with the project Norm. It's a bit of love/hate relationship doing this deck. I enjoy doing it when able, but frustrating when you find the evidence of the 'Bodger Squad' having been there before you. I had some nagging doubt about leaving the main Driven Spindle Ass'y as is. There was the slightest evidence of a 'Graunch' in the bearing somewhere. So I torqued up the nut to spec on the double Pulley to find it worsened. I decided to pull it and replace the bearings. The spindle had to be carefully pressed out showing signs of bad scoring and the Oil Seal had been damaged when assembled in the past. Ordered new quality bearings and seals last night and extra spare ones- The top (original) bearing was ok. The bottom one was made in Taiwan with a rubber shield (cheap type) and was the cause. Progress on the Shell going well. Baffles welded in, sealed and primed. I also decided to plug the 13 unused factory pressed out holes in the shell, as they tend to assist with the rust process and allow grass up into the drive belt area on top- Sorry for the last being a tad out of focus. Still some de rusting of the last 3 panels to do (not great fun in hot weather). Finished shortening the 8 stainless Belt Cover fixing bolts to 1/4 inch so there is little protuberance underneath and starting on the front wheel spindle ass'y. ........ Lathe Time . Regards.

My turn to say for delays to Thread updates. I have excuses. I had to slow this job down so I could do small short sessions when the opportunity arose. The plan to have the Deck Shell Media Blasted was cancelled, and so I set to cleaning it back myself. It has taken several months to get the rust off and treat ready for welding the Baffle metal in place. Checking the fit and positioning- The old Baffles had slots cut out to fit the Nuts for the forward Bracket Bolts. I wanted to avoid any slots that would let the Baffles fill with grass, dirt and stones again. So I have made 1 Mushroom Head bolt Captive each side under the curved Plate. The other 2 have clearance (just). The condition of the shell (underside) when most of the rust was removed is very good considering, but a lot of work to clean it all off so that the Rust converter I used converted it all.The top surfaces are fine. Combination of Etch, Weld Through and Oxide Primer being used initially- Also noted that the old Baffle welds had cracked on the apex of the curves, so I incorporated 2 steel tube posts to add strength and to serve as a conduit for injecting Waxoyl into them- I drilled the shell 1/4" dia to allow a long bolt to hold the tube(s) in place while I tacked them. I can then Tap the holes 5/16" UNC for screw plugs. The slots cut into the tube's bottom end will allow the stuff to flow in. So some more tack welding to fit the bottom plates to do (I'm not good at welding yet) and finish prep underside soon .