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By George, George, I think we've cracked it.
The MK3 version.
Sitting 7-1/2" high. Pin in 10" hole. Plough sitting flat on the ground. Adjustment about half way.
Plough would go lower if tractor higher. So I think I could plough 7 - 8 inch deep?
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Thanks for that, George. Something like that did cross my mind. If I'd hydraulics and lift arms I would have done. I'll see what I can do. I'll get there eventually.
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If by plough hitch the square block on the plough, George. It will go inside the grey box. I'll try it tomorrow.
I'd need some flat bar to go in the slot hitch, Chris. I want some more anyway. Leave it with me and I'll see what I can do.
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The disc will be going on. If you lower it, I think you'd have to lower the hitch or have a longer hitch. And arms like Popeye. I'd leave it as is.
I'm trying to work out if reducing the height of the box, on the hitch where the pin goes through, would improve things.
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I know one thing, it's flamin' 'eavy. I'll have to get the dumb bells out or work out some spring assistance to lift it. May have to reverse to get it out of the ground.
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I'm posting here George, rather than a PM, as your advice and comments may help others. Not just me.
I've re-made the hitch, as ground clearance when traveling was very little.
The next photo is it on 7-1/2" boards with plough fully down.
Plough is not touching the ground. Front tip is 1-1/4" off the ground and rear is 1". I cannot get the plough level as no more adjustment.
This last photo is of plough in position as if to start ploughing.
I'm guessing here, that from my measurements, the plough will drag itself down to 6".
Distance from share to inside of rear wheel is 6-1/2 inch. From your figures, guessing again, depth would be approx. 4".
Again, your comments, suggestions and advice greatly appreciated.
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That's nice. I like the rear blade.
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She should have fire resistant overalls as well. You don't want to set her fur on fire.
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I think the grill looks OK, Ian.
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Thanks George. Your advice is greatly appreciated. What's depth are we looking for? Going off the depth of the share, 6 - 7 inch?
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Managed to get it free. Tightening and slackening the adjusting bolts, plenty of penetrating oil, banging it on the floor and patience. Took about an hour. Painting in progress now.
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Thanks George. You've just answered something I've been wondering. I wasn't sure if that shaft should swivel or not. It's seized solid. The bolts had been screwed right in, so it couldn't move anyway. Going to take some freeing, methinks.
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Hi behoof. As you say, it could be the pump or even the fuel tap not sealing properly.
I had the same problem with my C-125. I've fitted a priming bulb of a boat in the fuel line. Just one squeeze and it's away.
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I'll find out at it's first trial.
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Bit of modifying this morning.
The square bit the pin goes through was cut off the box section. Box section drilled to take a pin. Long bolt procured from the farm and made into a pin while there. Also came back with some heavy duty electric fence wire that was going spare.
Fence wire is now lift cable and it lifts the plough nicely. Well it does after I reset it. I fitted it at first with the lift lever in the up position.
There now is a bit of swing in the plough as George suggested. Is there enough or maybe to much? I haven't a clue.
Anyway, the plough now fits the tractor. Still bits to do yet.
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That's looking good, Richard.
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Thanks Mark. I noticed that but couldn't correct it. It's the key board.
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Your plough is the same as mine. I did think of using the pin hole and I understand what you mean. I'll have to have a re-think. How much sideways movement do you have?
You've got 17 days.
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At the Newby Hall show, The Showman brought up a plough for me he'd collected from Alans friend John.
Last night on reading young Toms post on preparing for Rural Past Times, I was hit by inspiration. Doesn't happen often. Off into the workshop I hastened, and the plough, all in bits, was roughly put together.
Today a trip up to the farm for some scrap metal. Back home I set too. The result is below.
I could do with some heavier gauge cable for the lift, I haven't got any. Or chain and run it through a custom tube? I have the bits for that. Or make a solid bar mechanism? I have some bits for that.
I may also shorten the arm by an inch or two, where it goes down to the shoe. Give a bit more ground clearance when raised.
Decisions! Decisions!
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There is a difference in pulley numbers. Have PM'd you. Bearing OD is the same. 40.13mm.
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