Wristpin

Two BS ones both with their holes elongated to fit other things. One item that is not there is is a starter clutch spigot protector and knocker. On BS engines with the ball engagement starter clutch there is a temptation to remove it and then hit the top of the spigot to dislodge the flywheel . Don't do it as even the slightest distortion of the spigot will lead to screaming starters and wrecked recoil springs but the after market protector with a brass insert makes the job easy and safe. Briggs contact breaker / condenser set, 294628 £15.15+vat , is still readily available but with so many good used Magnetron coils around for less money there's little point (sorry) in making work for the fun of it. Most mower shops have a box of "may come in useful" Magnetron coils from wrecked engines. Just need to make sure of the exact dimensions between fixing screws as there are some small dimensional differences between what appear to be similar engines.

Legged pullers that hook under the flywheel are a strict NO, NO. You can end up with a split flywheel or worse still a cracked one that flies apart later. Make what you need when you need it - will always come in useful!

The thought of a ten set one takes me back to the late '40s when "wireless" sets had rechargeable accumulators which would be taken to the local garage or bike shop for recharging at an old penny or two a time. There would be a row of them all hooked together gently bubbling away. For those of tender years, an accumulator was a rechargeable wet battery , usually glass with a carrying handle. My knowledge of "Portable" as opposed to mains Wireless sets of the era is a bit sketchy but they would have been valve sets (no transistors) and often had an accumulator to run one section (grid bias??) and a dry battery to run the less demanding section.

Line 'em up on a well ventilated shelf, and hook each to a "maintenance" charger once a month. keeping them charged protects against sulphation and frost. I have my stand-by generator permanently hooked to a C-tek charger .

Great pictures - but its only a tiddler! https://uk.usembassy.gov/the-american-embassy-london-chancery-building/embassy_chancery_with_eagle_750x450/

Just depends. If the seal has gone due to a bad bearing its possibly not worth doing but if just the seal, give it a go. If you are not paying labour charges there's little to loose.

A wire from the coil to points and a wire from external condenser to same terminal.Make sure that you have the correct thickness gasket between the cover and the crank case. Without that the points may earth out to the cover. In many applications the condenser is anchored under one of the engine mounting bolts. Edit The "book" points gap is 20thou but experience gleaned the hard way suggests that they perform better at 18thou - long story!

If it's an unmolested 60s machine it will have been fitted with contact breaker points under the flywheel so assuming that it's not been updated to an electronic system, you have a choice, remove the flywheel and clean the points or find a used working electronic coil (Magnetron) and fit it in place of the existing one. A Magnetron coil is identifiable by a "lump" between one armature leg and the coil. Fitting a Magnetron coil avoids having to remove the flywheel either then or ever again! * If you are going for the points and assuming that your machine has a top mounted starter (pull the rope out sideways) it has a stater clutch which must be removed before you can tackle the flywheel. There is a tool to grip the lugs of the clutch which unscrews anti clockwise but with care a block of wood and a hammer or even stillsons will do the job. Under the clutch is a Belleville washer - note which way up it goes. The flywheel is probably drilled for a puller but with care can be removed without the "proper" tool. However do not use a legged puller around the rim and at all costs don't hit the starter clutch spigot with a steel hammer - preferably don't hit it at all! Get the fingers of one hand under the flywheel, take the weight of the machine and tap the keyway side of the flywheel sharply with a copper hammer. With a bit of luck the flywheel will release. If you have a side mounted (pull up) starter there will be no clutch but a nut. From there on in, clean the points, remove the plunger and clean it and make sure that it is free moving, refit the points and set to 20thou.Refit the flywheel (note that it should have an aluminium key not steel) and tighten the clutch to 55ft lbs or **tight. * The book will say that when carrying out a conversion the flywheel should be removed and the points actuating plunger replaced with a blanking plug , but.............!

Both of the above plus controlled cooling - in its simplest form, burying it in dry sand. Also, as has been alluded to, short quick spaced tacks extended and joined in turn contains local heating, expansion and contraction.

Talking gas flow; while the manifolds are off its worth checking that the passages exactly match the gaskets and head ports - same with the inlets. Back in the day the alignments on some engines was so bad that grinding a bit off here and there was the cheapest extra couple of horses to be found.

Not another Robin Reliant!!! It's a Merry Tiller Titan! Rant over. The book says " 22" sickle mower, MT2146 not recommended for a Titan, but an A29 for the 36" sickle mower attachment pt no MT3757"

Is it such a good idea to publicise that valuable kit may now be housed in less secure premises? Not everyone watching the forum may have honourable intentions.

Sue the father in the small claims court for the sum needed to put you back in the position you were before his son demolished your van.

Can quite believe it. it was a regular spring job replacing chewed up fuel lines and primer bulbs.

I bookmarked this a while back with the intention of making one for my blast cabinet - time for action! Simple Dust Trap for your Blast Cabinet -- less than $20!! - page 1 - She Shore Is Purdy!! - The Garage Gazette

Thought that sand was virtually outlawed due to risk of silicosis (if that's the right word?)

Brick acid on alloy will produce a spectacular reaction and liberate some noxious fumes. Not advisable.

Or fright!

In which case Soda blasting should be fine for your job albeit a bit messy. You will need plenty of soda granules but there is a number of auction site sellers doing it by the sackful rather than the rather expensive small buckets from the likes of Machine Mart and Sealey.

I have managed to dig out the relevant 600 series information and you will see that the 668 is listed with no sign of the right angle box which supports my original theory that it was an "add on". Peerless made a bewildering assortment of right angle drives so it may be that with a bit more scrubbing your box may reveal an id plate of its own. If it does I may have the parts break down for it. Going back to the variations within the 600 series family the difference between the individual variants is often just the axle lengths or the type of keyway on the axles. https://www.dropbox.com/s/t3zrvz6q4ochd96/Peerless 600 series transmissions0001.pdf?dl=0

The term 600 series is the general description of that style of transmission and the 668 is a " sub species" within that category so it's quite possible that the 68 identifies it as having that right angle drive . I have one other possible source of information but at present it is somewhat inaccessible!

I was looking for something else this evening when I came across this which may be of interest to anyone trying to id a Peerless box. Interestingly there is an illustration of a 600 series transaxle and also one of a right angle drive box but not both fixed together. It makes me think that the set up posted on the forum may have been a modification by a machine manufacturer or user and not a Peerless option. Peerless transmission model id0001.pdf

Yes, I've used it with a total loss pressure pot blaster but its quite messy and extravagant on soda. I usually clean up alloy castings and carburettors etc using fine glass beads in a cabinet. When the beads start to loose their effectiveness for paint removal etc I drain them into a sealed bucket and then reuse them for delicate items. Never caused any damage.

Throttle cable. You just need a bit of piano wire . Put a "dog leg" in the control end of it , split the control box and hook it into the lever and poke it down the outer with a couple of inches protruding , clamp the outer onto the BS throttle / governor plate and eye up the appropriate length before making the final dog leg to hook into the throttle lever. A lot easier than it sounds! The original part number was 746-0503 P.S. BARRUS are showing available stock!! £8.53 + vat

Yes, a Peerless, as used in the Westwood Lawn bug. A 600 series , I believe, but I've never seen one with that right angle drive box strapped on the side. Unfortunately I left all my Peerless literature at my old business which has since closed .