May have missed this on an earlier post but have you tried either of the problem mags on another machine that has run ok with its own?
Also beware that by asking a mag to jump an oversize gap the spark may find an easier route inside the mag and permanently damage the windings. The received wisdom is that a mag should only be tested via an earthed spark plug set at the normal gap and not off the end of the HT lead.
Posted this on the wrong thread - Brrr it's cold .
Some thoughts on the belt issue. Possibly try using a cogged (not toothed) wedge belt, machining up a pair of deeper profile pulleys to retain the belt within the flanges when it twists and making up two raking fingers pointing into the open side of the pulleys to continuously remove debris before it builds up.
Some thoughts on the belt issue. Possibly try using a cogged (not toothed) wedge belt, machining up a pair of deeper profile pulleys to retain the belt within the flanges when it twists and making up two raking fingers pointing into the open side of the pulleys to continuously remove debris before it builds up.
Worth checking that in air the spark is going from the centre electrode to the plug body and not the other what around due to polarity problems. Seen that with a coil ignition set up but not sure if it can happen with a mag.
When I was at school in darkest Sussex in the 1950s the school was "off grid" and had a single? cylinder Lister generator (start-o-matic?) . Presumably it was DC as there was a room full of glass tank accumulators - no recollection of the voltage. I seem to remember that it stood quite tall and had twin flywheels and a thermo-syphon cooling system that just lost heat from a 45 gallon sized drum mounted above it . This tank was a good source of hot water for melting "scotch glue" in the woodwork shop next door!
Nice work lad's, I'm surprised that thick metal had rusted away, as it does look like.. er.. thick metal A water trap maybe? Nice repairs by the way
We had a customer living about quarter of a mile from the sea who parked his MTD ride-on in an open sided shed , always pointing in the same direction. The side exposed to the sea spray completely rusted away while the other side was more or less untouched . Fortunately MTD were able to supply a complete new chassis section which saved a lot of cutting and shutting.
I thought "home made" but they certainly look like MT chain cases . I had never heard of or seen a twin six.
Edit. Yes, it is a twin six and is described and illustrated in Brian Bell's Seventy Years of Garden Machinery - what a beast, 9hp Briggs and uo to a 6 foot cut!
Just watching a repeat of a repeat of Salvage Squad and they have a stuck four cylinder lump from a Tiger Moth and the old chap supervising them heats up a pan of oil until it smokes and then pours some into each bore . Apparently the heat helps penetration and expands the bore a fraction to aid freeing the pistons. - allegedly !! Any way it worked for them !
That's fine Stormin, There are a few around the UK and other areas of the world.
Thanks , I put some burning oil down them instead of diesel because it works better as a lubricant as well, will try and turn it over slowly tomorrow with a spanner, if no movement then ill leave it for a couple more days to soak. I gave it a wash today and it has a lot of the original paint on it and in fairly good condition!
Regards Joe
Patience will be rewarded! I'd be inclined to give it a couple of weeks before resorting to the block of wood and lump hammer! Probably marginal but at this stage its penetration thats needed more than lubrication . Plus Gas or a mix of acetone and brake or AT fluid maybe.
Often solenoids fail as the result of over tightening of the terminal securing nuts or failure to hold the back nuts ( if fitted) while tightening the terminal nuts. This pulls the internal contacts slightly out of line so that when the magnet pulls the contractor disc up it doesn't sit squarely against the contacts . The resulting arcing either welds it into permanent contact or the " slag" created prevents further contact.
One brand of solenoid that we used had a little sticker on each one specifying a maximum torque for the terminal nuts - which of course we observed religiously ! However it was noticeable that we experienced far fewer early failures on solenoids fitted in our workshop than with those sold over the counter.
Eliminate the possibility of an ignition or safety switch problem. With the switch turned to off/stop take a fly lead from the battery positive and touch it to the small ( thin wire) terminal of the solenoid. If the solenoid clicks and the starter kicks in the problem lies in the switch or the safety circuit.
No result from that, you can by-pass the solenoid but this is a bit brutal and only for the brave or foolish!. Take a decent sized bit of iron (not you best screwdriver!) and bring it down squarely across the two heavy terminals on top of the solenoid but be prepared to whip it off a bit smartish! . If the starter kicks the problem is with the solenoid.
Ewan's right, sometimes we use the word patina, when the real word is rust, be it mild or excessive. Patina affects the surface like tan or weathered skin, while rust is a cancer. Sometimes it takes youth to say what the older man would rather not see or face.
Don't think that rust and patina can be separated so easily. Unless the metal is rusted through or structurally unsound it forms part of the patina , rust and all. To my mind an old machine in good original condition with 60% plus of its original paint is always preferable to one repainted to ex- factory condition - or better. I'm no fan of two pack on a machine that would have left the factory painted cellulose or synthetic paint.
That said I totally subscribe to an owner doing whatever they like with their own kit, but originality once gone can't be replace!
If you can get it, try OSPHO on the prep, it works really good on neutralizing rust. It might go by another name over their, but it leaves a clear varnish like layer that serves as added protection
Sounds as though it may be similar to Owatrol which can either be added to paint or applied by itself as a patina preserver.
This cultivator was just given a wash with hot soapy water and the a coat of Owatrol to preserve the original rust, paint and patina, preventing further deterioration .
A water trap maybe? Nice repairs by the way 
. Plus Gas or a mix of acetone and brake or AT fluid maybe.
Ransomes MG2 number 137
in Step by Step restoration
Posted
May have missed this on an earlier post but have you tried either of the problem mags on another machine that has run ok with its own?
Also beware that by asking a mag to jump an oversize gap the spark may find an easier route inside the mag and permanently damage the windings. The received wisdom is that a mag should only be tested via an earthed spark plug set at the normal gap and not off the end of the HT lead.