Jump to content

factory

Moderators
  • Content Count

    1,687
  • Joined

  • Days Won

    59
Everything posted by factory
 
 
  1. Now down to $150 with make best offer. https://www.ebay.com/itm/114006353971 David
  2. They updated them in 1963 to use all metal parts for the bearings with no change to the dimensions, the slotted con-rod is used with the all metal con-rod main bearing as previously mentioned, no need for guessing. See both points (b) & (c) in the NIAE test report below. Later engines increased the diameter of both the crank-pin for the con-rod bearing & the big-end bore of the con-rod, hence the need for 16 rollers instead of 13. David
  3. Looking at the pictures & description it looks to have a quick release mechanism & two pins for the two main parts, same as modern bikes do for some parts. David
  4. They are only noticeable from the MOM homepage in the latest topic column, unless you regularly check for sale & wanted threads. Now moved to the O&R section. David
  5. I only have parts lists for O&R made (& rebrands) chainsaws and the later 6 digit part numbers don't give any sizes, also I can't confirm that other manufacturers used the same chain & sprocket as O&R did. David
  6. Not sure, but it was indeed shown in three parts. David
  7. That is the later one I was referring to above (post #43) that uses more modern type seals, they also changed the induction housing one to a similar type but made it non-removable in the process. David
  8. Yes. 1/4" pitch chain and a 12" bar. Manual oiler, seems all of the O&R saws are manual. Mine is missing the the plastic knob So these have a different pitch chain to the more common O&R/ORline versions (& rebrands or these)? Some of the later O&R/AEP powered chainsaws did have what they claimed was an automatic chain oiler, from old adverts I suspect they just incorporated it into the throttle control. David
  9. I tried many different seal suppliers but couldn't find anything like the originals in shape, also modern seals seem to be a lot wider. O&R did change the seal & the bearing retainer to a different type for later production engines, these can be used for older engines too. David
  10. The picture I posted was from the listing, I will take some of my own when it is here. I was wondering if the engine or starter had been replaced as the military green looks out of place with the rest. And yes it has chain drive to the front wheel, as well as the standard O&R throttle control on one of the handles. I did check though all the other mini-bikes I had pictures of & magazine articles on (see manuals thread for links) and couldn't see anything that matched this either as an original product or build it yourself project. I'll have a look through the "web archive" to see if it had a name, assuming it got saved (no pictures of course). David
  11. .....and don't do any research either. David
  12. Clint bought this one, I wonder if I should move some of the sold O&R items to this section for reference. David
  13. Here is what I said less than 12 months ago (post #2) when someone asked about the value of a Tiny Tiger, along with certain chainsaws they are very common, remember to check recent sold prices/completed listings, but be very careful with "buy-it-now" items as ePay hide the actual lower sold price if "best offer" was used. David
  14. That's utterly stupid, I count at least four commonly missing parts too. If they are making $600+ for a rough one, then I need to get my nice complete spare one sold. But there was two different bidders prepared to pay $600. David
  15. It's not just smaller, the MONO text is rounded to match the starter too, personally I would leave the starter as it is, I prefer to keep original decals that aren't too far gone. David
  16. The gearbox is part of the engine, which engine type is used on this Mustang? Here is the gearbox diagram & parts list for engine Type 185, which was used on some Mustang chainsaws. David
  17. Well I've accidentally bought myself a O&R powered mini-bike . It's one I've not seen before, does anyone recognise it? David
  18. Looks a nice water-cooled conversion and reasonably priced too. David
  19. That looks pretty good as a replacement for the spark plug insulator #6-3, I wouldn't necessarily say they are missing for all engines, as shown in the 1961 brochure/price list they were sold as an accessory & none of the engines are shown with one fitted. The 1961 price list was uploaded to the manuals thread, see Section 1, I really should have separated it into the brochures section. I've been using Hellermann rubber sleeves for the brass tab type stop/kill switch, I might have ended up with a few when I bought & cleared the contents of the electronic parts storeroom at work. David
  20. The pump (picture seven #33/4/21 in the gas engine magazine link) is a Paradox or Electro-Flow pump, see here; I have the Electro-Flow branded version in my collection. Edit: just read the description for the photo, I see the O&R pump was found in South Africa. David
  21. I can't check tonight but I think the rollers from A-20-5-13-7 & A-20-5-16-7 may be the same as "20-5" is coded into both part numbers, 20-5 is the roller originally used in A-27-11. By the way I checked several packs of A-20-5-13-7 and they all have a waxed strip of 16 rollers, even though only 13 or 14 are needed depending on which service information is correct. David
  22. Apart from the roller part numbers everything else is the same as the information I posted on the previous page (posts 19 & 21), the larger diameter bearing assembly was introduced between April & August 1964. Nice to see that page from 1963 confirming the need to change the con-rod to a slotted one when using the all metal con-rod bearing A-20-5-13-7. David
  23. Thanks for measuring those Brian, I will see if I can find a supplier of 1" aluminium pipe. David
  24. Those early engines have some smaller sized bearing assemblies, I'm fairly certain the con-rod bearing is too, that's why they give so many parts to change if replacing the plastic caged types. Edit: Later engines have several beefed up bearings on the crankshaft/backshaft. David
  25. The maintenance manual* does state 14 rollers are used for the con-rod big end and 19 rollers used for the con-rod little end, but I think I should also check some unopened packs of these bearings to confirm this as the later parts list fail to mention any quantities for the rollers. *The manual is supposed to be for the 1HP engine, but I have a picture from one of my restorations showing 16 rollers on the con-rod big end for a 1HP engine. David
 
×
×
  • Create New...