factory

Nice to see pictures of the Mono version. It looks to have a custom decal with the cut-out for the starter rivet too, not like those reproduction ones I've seen. David

The parts diagrams show the extra foot (or vibro-mount as they call it) fitted on the top side of the base plate, underneath the generator. David

That's very nice in Chrome, I want one , it must be hard to keep clean though. It must also be the engine you mentioned you had with the redesigned carb, it the first one I've seen on an engine, so can't imagine it was very successful. It is shown in several brochures, including the AEP 13B one I added to the forum last month. Here is a diagram of it too, note: there are no further diagrams showing what is inside the diaphragm assembly or any parts breakdown for it, the extra section of tubing is used as a pressure line for the diaphragm pump (no primer button fitted). David

Looks a nice example, I've never found a source for feet the same as the originals, which are often perished or missing. I've seen quite a lot of Tiny Tigers with the handle having a slight bend away from the muffler. David

It was listed by "Old Mac Guy" on the chainsaw forum as being in the pictured brochure, 1.34 cubic inches being the 1HP O&R. Are you saying the pictures posted by "wildford" (aka "cortina" on the chainsaw forum) on both forums were originally from ebay? I did wonder if the Rocket Line version was re-branded for Australia, as the guy who posted the pictures is from Tasmania. For reference here is a link to the old O&R forum thread for the Rocket Line; https://web.archive.org/web/20130814203058/http://ohlssonandrice.forumer.com:80/rocket-line-chainsaw-o-r-t1243670.html David

Looks like the Mono one could be a Model 25 according to information from this link. http://www.chainsawcollectors.se/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=18242#p129872 David

Getting the spring back in is always fun! I've had several tools where the previous owners gave up. When I did repaired my first engine I had to figure it out without the aid of any service information, it took me a while to figure out the end of the spring was bent the wrong way too. David

Another possibility, the 1964 engine parts list does mention a tan starter (it doesn't state what it was used on), but what about the two decals and the different chrome handle? Also did you have a tan painted gearbox half? Here are some edited pictures from the ePay auction for future reference (they will disappear from ePay when the auction link eventually dies). David

I imagine the Mono badged one would have a different colour scheme & decals to the Rocket version, maybe John can confirm. David

We had a thread for this one on the old forum, although the post can be found on the web.archive, sadly the pictures can't. Luckily it was also posted on chainsaw forum "chainsawcollectors.se"; http://www.chainsawcollectors.se/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=315&t=22647&sid=664c46ab982b1873f59f4db3329bb16e It's nice to see another chainsaw that isn't a clone of the Orline ones. David

It could be from a department store, the retailer/re-branders label must have fallen off at some point. We have seen an Auger from Wards, Sears did have two chainsaws that are pretty well documented in the O&R service manual, Sears also put their catalog number on the instruction decal, I haven't seen anything re-branded for JCPenney (Penncraft) yet. David

Good to hear the spool is free, I'm curious as to what this engine is from, as you never said? David

The very late seals are attached to a steel ring, the flywheel side one can apparently be pressed out & replaced (if you could find replacements of course), but the reed valve one cannot be removed as the bearing ring in front of it prevents removal. David

You probably need to remove the starter pull knob. Or you don't want to take it apart, you could just soak the spring in WD40 and operate it to try & free it up. See this thread from the old forum for more on that method: https://web.archive.org/web/20130814213737/http://ohlssonandrice.forumer.com:80/rope-recoil-oiling-and-removing-t1186657.html Here are some pictures of one of these early starters I rebuilt a while ago; This one I was able to undo the knot holding the starter knob on. Starter reel & spring retainer removed, note the tabs on the spring retainer tend to break off preventing reuse, most early engines seem to be missing it for this reason. All parts removed and cleaned ready for reassembly. The spring was oiled after fitting (picture from another starter). Follow the service bulletin SE-040 for starter reel fitting/cord winding (short cord method). I couldn't take any pictures of this as it's impossible to work on under tension and hold a camera at the same time. All back together. And finally don't forget to refit the felt washer & thrust disc if you have them, most engines seem to be missing these. David

I should probably point out that the shafts in the picture are from a 3/4HP engine (top) and a 1HP engine (lower), I've also found a mention in one of the service bulletins that Series 13 engines made after June 1972 have some none replaceable seals. David

I must admit I've not measured all the sizes, but it's something I found out a long time ago, they beefed up the main crankshaft bearings too. The picture below was taken during my Petro Chug-A-Pump restoration, when I very quickly realised the parts incompatibility between early & later engines. David

Do the seals fit any of the different sized shafts found on O&R engines? They did use four different seals as you may already know. David

The parts from Bonnie arrived yesterday, as the '1000 engine rally' I was due to go to this weekend was cancelled (due to the field becoming waterlogged following heavy rain for most of this week), I had some time today to sort the parts into a spare drawer unit I got from work. About half way through I went searching in the shed for a full width drawer for the above unit, I came back to find the parcel being CAT-scanned. David

Gas will clean most parts, just avoid getting it on those later plastic sticker decals. David

Looks much better now, grease is mixture of oil & a thickener (usually a soap), in that gearbox the oil part has dried out leaving mostly thickener behind. I'm surprised you didn't use gas/petrol first, it's usually the most effective and cheapest cleaning option. David

There are a lot of unusual variants of chainsaw, none of which turn up very often, together with a couple of variants from the magazine adverts (in the sticky thread) which I have yet to see a surviving example for sale (the Calif. Power Line Products Inc. chainsaw for example). Thinking about it, the original switch may have been damaged and as it's not an off the shelf part, they may have replaced it with the toggle switch. David

That all looks a bit odd to me, the engine is described as a 1HP Type R, but the box is clearly labelled B-091239 (B is base tank mount) and the instructions are for a Compact II (0.85HP) ???? David

Not seen one like that before. I'm not so sure it's been repainted (or partly repainted) as the decals looks original, including the clear instruction one on the gearbox shield. The chrome handle is different to the standard ones, as it isn't flattened at the gearbox end (where it normally screws on). Oddly the stop switch is right by the exhaust , also the handle still has the holes for the switch rod, maybe that got broken & swapped with an Orline one. David

Commonly known as "badge engineering", neither of these rebranded Tiny Tiger's have the output specification on the main sticker. They should probably have this sticker too. Another version that claims 350 Watts, which is an intermittent maximum use rating (not continuous), see the manual in the sticky thread for more information. I will see if I can find any more in my saved pictures tomorrow. David

For reference here are some pictures of the cover that retains the gauze for the carb opening on one of my Aquabug's, looks like a new piece of gauze can be fitted. Paul, I've sent a PM about the spares from the donor engine. David