factory

Looking forward to seeing it completed. David

Here is another picture showing the back of the coil cover, which unlike the later ones is completely open, I guess something in that style could be made to replace the missing one. Something else I've noticed is the extended tube for the muffler, I've checked through my other saved pictures and a few other early ones (with the round tank & larger handle) have this too, including the C/Saw K-TRON repaired earlier this year. Also interesting to see they put the air filter in the other handle too (carb side). David

Good to see you sorted it out . I didn't suggest that method as sometimes you can make coils, transformers or other wound components worse, if a soldered joint further inside goes open circuit as a result. I have done delicate surgery on (unobtainable custom wound) potted transformers at work, using a heat-gun to gently soften the compound, then digging a little bit out at a time to find the failed solder joint(s), again I had to be careful not to use too much heat to avoid disturbing other joints. As parts can be scarce, you sometimes have to resort to either figuring a way of repairing it or making a new part from scratch. David

Unfortunately the wires don't come out of those coils (not without destroying them anyway), they will probably be soldered inside too. They often have perished rubber wiring, hence why I sleeve them, never seen a new coil for sale over here either. I have seen the the plug wire fallen out of several later coils, exposing a pin at the bottom for the connection, but this won't help with the earlier ones. David

There are three different versions of the Comet circular saw that I know of; The first & earliest (1961 or earlier) branded Comet C/Saw, I can't imagine many survived for long without the tank getting damaged; Second version same as yours, also branded Comet C/Saw with improved tank handle; And finally the later version, branded Comet Tote'N Tools, with cast tank; Have you got the special cover that Comet used for the magneto coil? David P.S. None of these are mine, I only have a Comet pump myself.

They had brochures listing various engines (with or without gearboxes, clutches & tanks) that could be bought for building into whatever project you could think of. A couple of later tools in my collection have the blanked off vent next to the filler cap, but they also have the filler extended too. David

Those early coils often have crumbly insulation on the wires, heat-shrink sleeving works OK, just be careful not the overheat the plastic casing of the coil. David

Nice that's an early one with the starter housing screws in the back, I've seen several new looking engines for these C-Saws on eBay over the years, no idea what people did with the rest of the saws. Are 8" blades obsolete too? I've found 4" grinding discs are no longer made too, they must do it deliberately to get people to buy more tools they don't need. David

Just had a look at the sockets again, actually it wasn't the outside that was the problem, it was the inside not being as deep as it looked. The Japanese one I got from a junk stall fitted, whereas the expensive Snap-on didn't (I really should stick it back on the bay). David

Same here, finding time to work on my O&R's or vintage electronic stuff is difficult at the moment. David

I ended up buying two deep sockets, the first one was too large to fit. You may also find it useful to have three longer screws/bolts to help with separating the engine from the frame. Another deep reach socket is used for installing the seals. Have a good read through both the 20A & Challenger Chainsaw manuals. There is another service bulletin for these saws, they must have had complaints. David

I've merged several other threads about shaft seals into this one. David

Some pictures of my Lancaster Mini Automatic can be found in this thread (post #5): David

Clint, I hope it all makes sense. Back to the Orline Mark II saw, is it running OK now? You were talking about taking it apart to check seals & the fuel lines (which are completely inaccessible otherwise), have you got the required socket for getting the de-compression valve out? The engine can't be removed from the frame with that in the way, a deep thin walled socket is required to remove the valve. David P.S. I will try & get the rest of that service bulletin added to the manuals thread.

I've moved several posts about the 13A/13B shaft seals (that are not relevant to the Orline Mark II chainsaw) to new thread here: I've had to add quotes for the bits that can't be moved (as I can't split a single post into two separate posts). David

Several posts moved to here from Orline Mark II chainsaw thread (that doesn't use these smaller seals). I've had to add quotes for the bits that can't be moved (as I can't split a single post into two separate posts). Thanks for the link! Yes, that’s been the challenge. I found some 3/8 ID but they’re just ever so slightly too large. I’m still going to test them to see if when under some pressure they expand enough to create a seal but I’m doubtful because they’re too loose in a static state. David

Unlikely as they usually have one of the O&R engines with a gearbox & the standard round tank. Looks nice on the stand/base. David

That Wizard Mighty Mini has the 13A 1HP engine and the Wizard CAT20 the 20A 1.6HP engine, Western Auto Supply were both a mail order company and had many retail outlets too. I have a Lancaster Mini Automatic that looks almost the same as that Mighty Mini, the only difference is the later 13B engine. David

Here is the video from that article, the O&R display is about 42 seconds in; The orange saw is a Western Auto Wizard CAT 20, not seen the yellow one opposite it before. Nice way of displaying them, he needs to update the years on the label though. I found an older video from 2009, the O&R display starts at approx 5.36; He seems to have one of those Mono ones too, the bright green one is a late one from AEP branded Jim Savage. David

Looks like it had very little use, still has the paper labels too. I can't find anything that uses the Type 227 engine, I have pictures of a couple more which all have the shaft extension for fitting a sprocket or pulley of choice and a clamp holding the tank vent line to the side of the cylinder. David

Same as other seal suppliers I've looked at, 0.375" shaft diameter rotary seals not available without the metal casing. David P.S. will double check the shaft size another day as it's 11pm now, plus this topic needs splitting off into a separate thread as it's not relevant to the chainsaw in the title.

Here is the Tiny Tiger repair guide from John, with lots of pictures; And the Tiny Tiger instructions I scanned also has disassembly instructions; David

Is it difficult to start as well? Here is what the service bulletin has for 'will not idle' (HeadExam has already mentioned most of them); Edit: Also found the service manual mentions blocked fuel tank vent, as a possible cause of only running for a short time. Or there may be a cracked fuel line to the carb. David

It's OK, I or any of the other Mods can move posts to other threads if needed, I've put the service bulletin about part #400102 in the carb thread, hope it helps. David

I have found a service bulletin about the later carb diaphragm membrane assembly part no #400102, used to replace the separate diaphragm membrane (#95-2) & diaphragm disc (#148-1) that may be found in later 1HP engines (or 3/4HP & 0.85HP engines that were serviced at some point in their working lives). If you find one of these diaphragm membranes with the disc bonded to it, be sure to transfer the disc to the replacement diaphragm. David