factory

I ended up buying two deep sockets, the first one was too large to fit. You may also find it useful to have three longer screws/bolts to help with separating the engine from the frame. Another deep reach socket is used for installing the seals. Have a good read through both the 20A & Challenger Chainsaw manuals. There is another service bulletin for these saws, they must have had complaints. David

I've merged several other threads about shaft seals into this one. David

Some pictures of my Lancaster Mini Automatic can be found in this thread (post #5): David

Clint, I hope it all makes sense. Back to the Orline Mark II saw, is it running OK now? You were talking about taking it apart to check seals & the fuel lines (which are completely inaccessible otherwise), have you got the required socket for getting the de-compression valve out? The engine can't be removed from the frame with that in the way, a deep thin walled socket is required to remove the valve. David P.S. I will try & get the rest of that service bulletin added to the manuals thread.

I've moved several posts about the 13A/13B shaft seals (that are not relevant to the Orline Mark II chainsaw) to new thread here: I've had to add quotes for the bits that can't be moved (as I can't split a single post into two separate posts). David

Several posts moved to here from Orline Mark II chainsaw thread (that doesn't use these smaller seals). I've had to add quotes for the bits that can't be moved (as I can't split a single post into two separate posts). Thanks for the link! Yes, that’s been the challenge. I found some 3/8 ID but they’re just ever so slightly too large. I’m still going to test them to see if when under some pressure they expand enough to create a seal but I’m doubtful because they’re too loose in a static state. David

Unlikely as they usually have one of the O&R engines with a gearbox & the standard round tank. Looks nice on the stand/base. David

That Wizard Mighty Mini has the 13A 1HP engine and the Wizard CAT20 the 20A 1.6HP engine, Western Auto Supply were both a mail order company and had many retail outlets too. I have a Lancaster Mini Automatic that looks almost the same as that Mighty Mini, the only difference is the later 13B engine. David

Here is the video from that article, the O&R display is about 42 seconds in; The orange saw is a Western Auto Wizard CAT 20, not seen the yellow one opposite it before. Nice way of displaying them, he needs to update the years on the label though. I found an older video from 2009, the O&R display starts at approx 5.36; He seems to have one of those Mono ones too, the bright green one is a late one from AEP branded Jim Savage. David

Looks like it had very little use, still has the paper labels too. I can't find anything that uses the Type 227 engine, I have pictures of a couple more which all have the shaft extension for fitting a sprocket or pulley of choice and a clamp holding the tank vent line to the side of the cylinder. David

Same as other seal suppliers I've looked at, 0.375" shaft diameter rotary seals not available without the metal casing. David P.S. will double check the shaft size another day as it's 11pm now, plus this topic needs splitting off into a separate thread as it's not relevant to the chainsaw in the title.

Here is the Tiny Tiger repair guide from John, with lots of pictures; And the Tiny Tiger instructions I scanned also has disassembly instructions; David

Is it difficult to start as well? Here is what the service bulletin has for 'will not idle' (HeadExam has already mentioned most of them); Edit: Also found the service manual mentions blocked fuel tank vent, as a possible cause of only running for a short time. Or there may be a cracked fuel line to the carb. David

It's OK, I or any of the other Mods can move posts to other threads if needed, I've put the service bulletin about part #400102 in the carb thread, hope it helps. David

I have found a service bulletin about the later carb diaphragm membrane assembly part no #400102, used to replace the separate diaphragm membrane (#95-2) & diaphragm disc (#148-1) that may be found in later 1HP engines (or 3/4HP & 0.85HP engines that were serviced at some point in their working lives). If you find one of these diaphragm membranes with the disc bonded to it, be sure to transfer the disc to the replacement diaphragm. David

Ah I see, you would have been best to post that request in another more relevant thread, the carb rebuild sticky thread gives info on where to find reproduction carb diaphragms for the smaller 3/4HP to 1HP engines. I will add the info about part no #400102 there. David

Glad to help, see my edit in the last post about part #400102 which is not for the Series 20A engine used on these saws. David

That is an O&R or AEP number, you will only find new-old-stock of those as AEP (Advanced Engine Products Inc) closed down in 1978. Edit: Where did you find that number (#400102)? As it is a replacement carb diaphragm assembly for the smaller 1HP Compact & Series 13 engines, no use whatsoever for the Series 20A engine used in these chainsaws. This may help with part numbers for the O&R repair kits if Webhead still has any (send him a private message). David

Doesn't look too bad, it should clean up well, just be aware the decal stickers can be easily damaged by cleaning on these later O&R tools. @Webhead may still have some original O&R specific carb kits for these saws or a modern kit can be bought as CNew said. I'm sure we have mentioned this before, Amsoil only make synthetic oils for 2-stroke engines. Will it be OK with the seals & that unobtainium reed valve? David

That would be the Bridges Mini-Mota drill, which predates the change to only using grease and removal of all gearbox oil holes from the castings. David

My brother was watching some old episodes of the "The Price is Right" from 1973 on YouTube and found one featuring the Chicken Power Motor Kit as one of the prizes? in the guess the more expensive items from pairs in the 'give or keep game' part of the show. It's featured about 12 minutes in. David

Here are some pictures of the seal fitted to the NOS induction housing I have. David

Looking at the service manual, it looks as if the open-end of the induction seal should face towards the "small end of the induction case" i.e away from the engine, as you've found it. The feather valve seal is fitted the opposite way around. I will check the one NOS induction casing I have, as the seal is pre-fitted. If any seals are bad they will leak whichever way round they are fitted. David

From Intertec, same company that did the "small air-cooled engine service manual". Note: later editions may lack some older stuff like O&R's, always check the contents page before buying. David

A couple of starter housing parts that I have are painted in a neutral (undercoat ?) finish, I've seen other parts like this too, I think they stopped supplying spare parts in all different colours* and must have left it up to the repair shops to paint it to match. In fact some of the very late production tools & bike kits seem to have been spray painted all over after assembly. David *Unless it was an OEM that ordered a very large quantity.