factory

You probably need to remove the starter pull knob. Or you don't want to take it apart, you could just soak the spring in WD40 and operate it to try & free it up. See this thread from the old forum for more on that method: https://web.archive.org/web/20130814213737/http://ohlssonandrice.forumer.com:80/rope-recoil-oiling-and-removing-t1186657.html Here are some pictures of one of these early starters I rebuilt a while ago; This one I was able to undo the knot holding the starter knob on. Starter reel & spring retainer removed, note the tabs on the spring retainer tend to break off preventing reuse, most early engines seem to be missing it for this reason. All parts removed and cleaned ready for reassembly. The spring was oiled after fitting (picture from another starter). Follow the service bulletin SE-040 for starter reel fitting/cord winding (short cord method). I couldn't take any pictures of this as it's impossible to work on under tension and hold a camera at the same time. All back together. And finally don't forget to refit the felt washer & thrust disc if you have them, most engines seem to be missing these. David

I should probably point out that the shafts in the picture are from a 3/4HP engine (top) and a 1HP engine (lower), I've also found a mention in one of the service bulletins that Series 13 engines made after June 1972 have some none replaceable seals. David

Yes the Mini Twelve & other O&R powered Lancaster chainsaws aren't seen very often. And the parts lot with: the two carbs, air cleaner, magneto coil, cylinder/piston and cylinder side plate are worth the asking price in my opinion, all the other parts are a bonus. David

I hope you work something out, I would have done the Buy-It-Now very quickly if they were at those prices and over here. David

I must admit I've not measured all the sizes, but it's something I found out a long time ago, they beefed up the main crankshaft bearings too. The picture below was taken during my Petro Chug-A-Pump restoration, when I very quickly realised the parts incompatibility between early & later engines. David

Perhaps I should have said it only ships to the US, unfortunately this seems to be the case for most items I find on eBay.com (both O&R & vintage HP stuff I search for). Maybe you could ask for help if your interested, just keep in mind that shipping would probably be at least $100, plus the shipping in the US and any custom fees. David

Do the seals fit any of the different sized shafts found on O&R engines? They did use four different seals as you may already know. David

These two Buy-it-now listings on eBay.com may be of interest here. They are for a Lancaster Mini Twelve chainsaw; https://www.ebay.com/itm/233262897155 And a parts lot; with some of the parts removed from the above chainsaw, together with a dismantled 3/4HP O&R Compact I engine; https://www.ebay.com/itm/233262890425 The chainsaw is the same as this one, it's possible one of the covers is missing from the parts lot. David

The parts from Bonnie arrived yesterday, as the '1000 engine rally' I was due to go to this weekend was cancelled (due to the field becoming waterlogged following heavy rain for most of this week), I had some time today to sort the parts into a spare drawer unit I got from work. About half way through I went searching in the shed for a full width drawer for the above unit, I came back to find the parcel being CAT-scanned. David

Gas will clean most parts, just avoid getting it on those later plastic sticker decals. David

Looks much better now, grease is mixture of oil & a thickener (usually a soap), in that gearbox the oil part has dried out leaving mostly thickener behind. I'm surprised you didn't use gas/petrol first, it's usually the most effective and cheapest cleaning option. David

There are a lot of unusual variants of chainsaw, none of which turn up very often, together with a couple of variants from the magazine adverts (in the sticky thread) which I have yet to see a surviving example for sale (the Calif. Power Line Products Inc. chainsaw for example). Thinking about it, the original switch may have been damaged and as it's not an off the shelf part, they may have replaced it with the toggle switch. David

That all looks a bit odd to me, the engine is described as a 1HP Type R, but the box is clearly labelled B-091239 (B is base tank mount) and the instructions are for a Compact II (0.85HP) ???? David

Not seen one like that before. I'm not so sure it's been repainted (or partly repainted) as the decals looks original, including the clear instruction one on the gearbox shield. The chrome handle is different to the standard ones, as it isn't flattened at the gearbox end (where it normally screws on). Oddly the stop switch is right by the exhaust , also the handle still has the holes for the switch rod, maybe that got broken & swapped with an Orline one. David

Commonly known as "badge engineering", neither of these rebranded Tiny Tiger's have the output specification on the main sticker. They should probably have this sticker too. Another version that claims 350 Watts, which is an intermittent maximum use rating (not continuous), see the manual in the sticky thread for more information. I will see if I can find any more in my saved pictures tomorrow. David

For reference here are some pictures of the cover that retains the gauze for the carb opening on one of my Aquabug's, looks like a new piece of gauze can be fitted. Paul, I've sent a PM about the spares from the donor engine. David

I've never seen any brochures for the Lloyds Auto Scythe, but did find some information on the Villiers Marvil engine a couple of years ago in this newsletter (page 7); http://www.oldengine.org/members/evans/paraffinalia/Newsletter9.pdf David

It looks nice in blue, did you find a carb for it? I have a cylinder plate stamped with the correct engine type for this, if you need it. Looks like you need to replace the starter missing rivet too. Earlier outboards (pictured below, not mine) had the standard round tank with a different bracket to rotate the tank 90 degrees, so that the filler cap was at the top. I've also noticed the plastic cover for the carb filter gauze matches the colour of the starter housing. According to the 13A246 parts list these were not fitted with a kill switch either. David

I thought the O&R/AEP brochures section of the manuals sticky thread was looking a bit bare with only one brochure, so I've created two new PDF's for the AEP Series 13B & 20A engine brochures. Some of the fine detail is not great on these PDF's, if anyone wants higher resolution PDF's I will see what I can do. David

Earlier today at work I was thinking the name Devillaine sounded familiar, just checked on the web archive now I'm home and found the old thread (now dead of course). David

Not tried to yet, but it shouldn't be too hard to find an O-ring with the correct diameter and thickness, maybe harder over here as we mostly use metric stuff. By the way I have never found anywhere selling seals anything like those originally used. David

I got my carb rebuild kits from Webhead, they are original O&R rebuild kits with some extra parts not found in the K10-HDC kit. @revmix used one of the generic K10-HDC repair kits bought on eBay. David

Try asking Webhead, he may still have some original O&R rebuild kits, that's where I got mine from. @revmix used a K10-HDC repair kit from China bought on eBay. David

That seems to be the website of a French Auction house, I see the starter is non-functional as usual and it still made 19000 Euros. Could that be the most expensive O&R powered item? Devillaine seem to have mostly made pedal cars from what I can find out. Another one here at a classic car show; http://www.voitureapedales.fr/devillaine-ouragan/ And another that was advertised for £9500; https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C923932 David

There is a blue starter amongst neons parts, I imagine it was originally on the Aquabug he also has. I've also seen one other Aquabug outboard with a blue starter. David