factory

I meant to add these last night but got distracted.
 
Here are parts which look to be for holding the trimmer head on, I'm missing the shaft that goes between the 201254 shaft part and the PTO shaft on the engine. Part 400642 is a cap that fits on the end of this second shaft which has internal spring clips.


 
And here are the parts that make up the air cleaner assembly, the first two parts 87-4 & 122-1 were previously used as exhaust parts, part 200946 is a modified version of the standard air cleaner part without the raised edge (see comparison with standard part) and the last part is a typical fixing rod for the air cleaner assembly (minus nuts & washers).



 
And the last part is the complete trigger cable assembly part 400611, I've no idea if there are different lengths of this for the various models of string trimmers they made, I put the loose parts on the end of the cable, they look to be fitted & soldered during assembly.


 
David
 
P.S. there are a few more small parts, a bronze bearing, various spacers & fixings that I haven't pictured yet, not even sure if they are for these.

It's all pure speculation unless you have pictures showing both the engine type & the model number (61MX3 ?) on the pump and several examples turn up to prove it's not been re-painted.
The three rather low-res pictures could be from many years ago, worthlesspoint harvests information from ePay listings, but usually only a couple of the pictures.
The muffler certainly doesn't look correct for military use.
 
As for the drone mention that is complete nonsense, people got confused with the large 4 cylinder McCulloch engine re-used in the early Bensen B-8M Gyrocopter (which can have an O&R engine used for the pre-rotator mechanism only). McCulloch made the drone engines.
 
David

Sadly I don't have a manual for the Estate 400 (only that low-res picture), but can help with pictures of some of the parts, including the trigger & cable, I have a few little trimmer head parts but none of the bigger pieces of the trimmer head.
The stop/kill switch on most of the these engines has always been a simple shorting switch, either the brass strip type or a bought in switch, some of the chainsaws have a more complicated switch mechanism in the handle.
 
David

A few pic of the state of my Groomer Estate 400 trimmer. I have assembled the parts I have found. I need the trimmer head, guards, trigger & cable, and air filter to complete it. The pic of the upper tube  clamp shows the engine ignition kill switch. -very basic. The lower clamp is shown. Both clamps are of the same cast aluminum design. The boss on each clamp with the holes must have been where the head trigger cable went. Without pictures of an original or a manual, it's conjecture as to what went where and why. That's why I like my old engines and equipment.

Maybe as we have both seen it before. I was looking through my saved pictures yesterday and came across this one;

 
David

O&R listed the water-cooled cylinder in the 1962 parts diagram (part no. #A-40-3), I'm still looking for a decent one for my engine, but I do have the large exhaust and an Octura carb.
 
And I should point out that there are other versions of the White Heat hydroplane for smaller engines than the Compact engine.
 
David

Sources for new reproduction Carb Diaphragms
 
USA, contact either @Wallfish or @CNew by personal message (PM).
UK & Europe, contact me @factory by personal message (PM).
 
O&R Carb Repair Tutorial
 
The tutorial below was copied from the original thread from the old forum saved by the internet archive, tutorial courtesy of laserscottman.
 
Here we go! The first pic in this thread shows how it all began. Following are the things I encountered along the way, during cleaning. After receiving the new diaphragm in the mail, I fully used Webhead's excellent instructions to reassemble the Primer/Diaphragm Valve Assembly successfully, with the following pictures detailing how I understood it. Got a block of soft wood and gently screwed the valve body down to hold it still to work on it. Fashioning a suitable 'filament' to thread through as shown, the filament is then used to lift the Diaphragm Arm Spring ends to allow the Diaphragm Roller to be laid in it's place at the right time in the assembly sequence. Then the Disc, Diaphragm and Cover are assembled.

The gum package is just a dark background to show the loop on the filament end to better grasp it. A non-magnetic pair of tweezers helped lay the roller in when it was time. The dental tool made it easy to pull/lift/move the Diaphragm Arm Spring to the various positions during assembly.

This is a detail view of how the spring will end-up over the roller in the end. Good practice to 'feel' how those spring ends will react to the filament tugging them.

Now the Spring is lifted and stays at this position, to allow for installing the Diaphragm Arm. Note that the Roller and the Diaphragm Valve Ball are in place before the Arm is laid in place.


The next part is tricky. Using the dental tool to push the Spring over the Lever toward the Roller, you must help the Spring tips over the Roller by using the filament, and helping the Lever to stay draped over the cross pin, until the big end of the Spring is seated well in the Lever short end, and the Spring ends are capturing the Roller. All this is done kind of simultaneously, according to the position of the parts. You will be glad you only need 1 hand to hold the filament, and that you have a fine tool like the dental tool!

Perfectly aligned, and will stay if the Lever Arm is not lifted all the way up--which is what got me in this jam in the first place! Now, you must carefully remove the filament. I cut the long end near the Lever Arm, and gently removed the filament.

There it is!

Then you can sequentially assemble the remaining parts. Be sure to install the screws with fingers, loosely, to avoid bunching up the Diaphragm in the threads. Don't overtighten the screws; the cover can be warped a bit, and may "bite" through the rubber Diaphragm.

This assembly then gets the thick Gasket and Diaphragm Valve installed with the clear plastic valve against the body, covering the hole. This is a one-way valve that opens and closes rapidly during operation.


The Needle Valve Assembly and the long screw mount the Primer Diaphragm Valve Assembly to the "Quadrant" Carburetor Assembly (carb body). Remember you are tightening a hollow brass part to an aluminum part! Snug, but not overly so. Kinda looks like the Starship Enterprise, don't it? Now this Dinosaur fits in among his smiling friends!


Little, but MIGHTY!

Many thanks to Webhead for his patient guidance and sharing of parts and resources! And thanks for this forum! Cheers!  
Extra Information
 
Another important post courtesy of Webhead who you can contact on here to buy replacement carb diaphragms.
 
"One thing that Scott mentioned that is VERY important- do not over tighten the brass needle valve assembly! I use a nut driver and give it a slight snug. In my earlier days, I snapped off two or three by using a 5/16" wrench. With a wrench, it seems like you always want to give it a little more and then snap!"   David   Edited; Nov 28 2014 to add the pictures to the forum. Dec 07 2020 to update diaphragm sourcing info.

I've now had a look for both types of starter dogs and taken some new pictures for comparison.
The middle section of part no. A-139-2 measures approx 1/2" and the older part no. A-139 measures approx 9/16" (from the early Model L engine I have).

 
And here are the two different types of starter dogs shown on an early flywheel (from a Petro Chug-A-Pump approx engine s/n #14000).

 
And the same starter dogs shown on a slightly later flywheel (from a Tiny Tiger approx engine s/n #35000).

 
If the information from the 1962 parts list is correct then the starter dog part no. A-139 was last used on engine no. #015997, after this they should be part no. A-139-2.
 
If you need the later one (A139-2) then I have a couple of used spares, I don't remember thinking I would need many so didn't buy any spares from Webhead, as I said before I don't have any spare of the older ones (A-139).
 
David

I've had a look through my archived pictures (from ePay), it disappears into the one of the handlebar tubes as shown in the picture below, the wire for the kill switch must also go inside the tubing on that side. The standard lever type control on the other side is for the rear wheel brake.

 

 
Here are a few other pictures showing the cables on another of these bikes.

 

 

 
David

I've had a look through my archived pictures (from ePay), it disappears into the one of the handlebar tubes as shown in the picture below, the wire for the kill switch must also go inside the tubing on that side. The standard lever type control on the other side is for the rear wheel brake.

 

 
Here are a few other pictures showing the cables on another of these bikes.

 

 

 
David

I've had a look through my archived pictures (from ePay), it disappears into the one of the handlebar tubes as shown in the picture below, the wire for the kill switch must also go inside the tubing on that side. The standard lever type control on the other side is for the rear wheel brake.

 

 
Here are a few other pictures showing the cables on another of these bikes.

 

 

 
David

I thought a new thread would be a good idea for looking to source new Bowden cable/conduit tubing for the O&R throttle cables.
 
I have a long NOS conduit here (the inner wire is a separate part) which I've measured today, with the plastic sleeving on it measures approx 0.145" to 0.15" (depending where you measure) and the steel core measures 0.125". The separate inner wire measures approx 0.047", this may vary slightly too. I noticed the plastic coating is removed where it enters the carb on my mini-bike.
 
Here is a thread on another forum (which was one of the first search results I found the other night), there are a few different suppliers mentioned that have different types of Bowden cable.
https://forums.stanwinstonschool.com/discussion/4182/extra-fine-bowden-cable
 
One of the links has some conduit tubing that might be suitable, the second one in the list could be suitable with the plastic removed (OD is 0.153" with plastic coating), maybe email them to confirm.
https://bergencable.com/_media/products/control_cables/pdfs/conduit.pdf
 
David

Here are some pics of second unit. The pull cord cover is oxidized a bit but appears not to be damaged. This one says “110/220 “ as well, maybe they are all the same, I don’t know 

Thank you for the reply, very helpful.
Here are some pics of one, maybe you could identify the small piece I found in the box it came in. I also would be interested in any parts you could lead me too that I might need to rebuild 2 carburetors. Could also use a new black receptacle. 
  Again, appreciate your thoughts .
 
Rob

That's interesting, those prices from Sears in 1962 are lower than buying from O&R in either 1961 or 1963 , thanks for sharing.
 
Here are the equivalent O&R engine models & prices;
32FA8800, 3300 RPM no clutch = Model D, 1961 $47.95, 1963 $47.85
32FA8801, 3300 RPM with clutch = Model G, 1961 $48.95, 1963 $49.25
32FA8802, 1700 RPM no clutch = Model E, 1961 $47.95, 1963 $47.85
32FA8803, 1700 RPM with clutch = Model H, 1961 $48.95, 1963 $49.95
32FA8804, throttle control = A-50, 1961 & 1963 $1.00
 
The 1961 brochure/price list is in the manuals sticky thread if you haven't seen it (Section 1), I still need to add the 1963 one.
 
David

I have just bought this today too! So I can swap parts to try the chainsaw but still on the hunt for a pullstart, diaphragms, and ad a chainsaw tank. Thanks andy

Mine has a rubber sealing ring for the feather valve to the crankcase seal (it is squashed into the what looks like a square section, I didn't take it off to check), no paper gaskets, they don't have them according to the parts list.
The exhaust collector apparently also has a sealing ring, I haven't taken mine apart as I don't want to damage it knowing that no NOS ones exist to copy the sizes from (pre-squashed).

 
You may notice mine doesn't have the fourth hole in the induction housing casting, the crankcase has all four threaded holes but no counterbore for the small o-ring (unlike yours which does).

 
The bronze cages are also used in the later model aeroplane engines, I never took the bearings out of my early Compact, so never found out that they had used them very briefly for these engines, you should notice all the bearing cages (apart from the con-rod) are the half cage versions.
 
Other differences you should notice are the stud & nut for the fourth threaded hole in the base tank and no oil hole in the starter rivet (with no mention on the decal either).

 
David

Clint's perfect size decal arrived to pretty much finish this one off. Clear coated the original recoil decal last weekend. Just needs some yellow touch up paint here and there.
The only thing I might do is change the bar size as the one on the "clothes iron" style Comet saw looks a bit out of proportion with a longer bar. That one was restored and painted a while back so it'll be an easy swap. The longer bar shouldn't really change the look of this one.
 

 
 

 

Got it all soldered up, cracks reinforced with epoxy and cleaned up best I can. All the electrical stuff works (in theory) using a meter and a couple of smaller batteries taped together for a power source. Haven't run it to test the generator power.
Had to drill a hole in the top of the tank to get the fuel line all straightened out. It's undetectable with engine on and sealed using Seal All. 
 

 

 

The information for the older style starters (Compact I, II, III & Series 13A engines) can in the service bulletin in the manuals sticky thread, you need to check the starter spring fitted as well.

 
For the later 13B & 20A use this length.

 
David

One of these arrived yesterday
 
Seems quite tidy, now mounted on a common base with the Type 23...
 

These date from sometime between August 1960 to 1961, gearbox models were not available in August 1960, but were due to go into production soon.

 
Here are some pictures from the first brochure, which show the features of these early engines.

 

 
David

Ok, got this really cool engine and I know it’s an early one. Might need David’s insights for this one. There aren’t any markings on it as far as I can tell, no model or serial numbers.  This is as-received and I haven’t touched it yet but looking forward to giving it a bath.  Unfortunately the engine and the gear box are both sieved up. I pulled the plug and the top of the piston looks surprisingly clean.  Missing the air cleaner. Has a push-pull throttle cable and a little pulley (probably an add-on).  I have no idea of the application, maybe a compressor or something.  This is definitely the oldest O&R in my collection now.

Something like that is well within my wheel House. I'm think'n 3/4 EMT pipe. The difficult part is finding something with the brakes for the back wheel and may already have an idea for that. Haven't looked into the fold down foot pegs but I could make those if necessary. Might have to use an old school banana seat which wouldn't look as good but...
No hurry at all as there's always plenty of stuff on my plate.
Just so you don't think you're wasting your time. Built these and the little Wheel Horse 2 seater cart in my avatar pic..
The Wheel Horse bike is 90% all tractor parts and looks even better now with an old school starter generator K181 engine on it instead of that modern M8. Made an article in a small tractor magazine.

 
 
The back hoe attachment was completely scratch built using some plans off the innerweb. All the way down to the bucket teeth. Used it to bury all the utilities underground. Loader is a factory unit

 
This little wooden model of a RJ-58 was made completely out of toothpicks and also made a magazine. Wheels turn, steering works, levers move, brake pedal works the brake band. The toothpick gives the scale of it.

Birds of prey, Ha! Funny how my post didn't mention ANY names but you guys know exactly who was meant. VULCTURES!
BTW, does anyone know what the O&R decal bird is actually supposed to be? An Albatross or something?
 
A new decal was made but I couldn't simulate those angled letters very well. The new decal looked alright but in the end decided to just keep the damaged original. Again, it took a while to clean off all of the stuck paint from it but...