Most likely the poor performance is leaking crank seals.
The case vacuum and pressure pulsing is what flexes the diaphragm for pumping fuel. You can try spraying carb cleaner in the ends of the crank to swell the seals in place and a new diaphragm. The induction side seal can be replaced with an O ring
A sticking ball check valve can be another issue. The weak link in these engines are the carb.
Adding a small RC type check valve should help too. Haven't tried these yet but just placed an order for them
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2xPCS-1-8-4mm-Inline-Check-Valve-Fuel-Gas-Air-Ink-Liquid-One-Way-Non-Return/262367806603?hash=item3d1657048b:g:fEwAAOSwBLlVDjyO
Those reeds need to seal. I'll take a look around to see if I have one for ya.
Think they have numbers on them. #2 and think the ones for the bigger shaft are #1. Could be wrong though
Direct from Northern Tool concerning the impeller for the pump in that link. Try giving them a call and I doubt that part can be very expensive. I do NOT know if it's a direct fit or not but certainly appears it can work
1 answer
where can I get a new impeller for this pump??
by
frankhus
November 5, 2011
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Please call our parts department @ 1-800-222-5381 for price and availability.
Another nice find! The box appears it's in great condition. Kind of easy to date that one huh?.
Some curious things on there.
Is that a label on the recoil cover?
Don't remember ever seeing 2 holes in a tank cap before.
Washers on the gearbox cover? Wonder if someone tried mounting it for something but it didn't work out. The pan head screws instead of fillister heads is different too.
Yes, that screw you know if is just that. The engine mounting holes on the case are slotted so the belt can be tightened with that screw.
I can't remember if the set screw was on the top or the bottom but it was small too.
Look for a hole in the saw body for a set screw. Twice the set screw stripped on me so never actually got the bearing out. If you do get the set screw out, look inside for another one in case it's doubled up
Didn't have any problem using carb cleaner. Used it to clean out the old gas and oil residue inside the tank of mine. BUT, I didn't leave it sit in there for a very long period of time either, probably less than hour or so total. Then blew it out to evaporate what was leftover too
The line goes straight down and has one of those cone type filters with a screen on it on the end. The cone is too large to fit out of the fill tube too.
Mine was broken off so to repair it a hole was drilled in the tank but on the opposite side of where I marked in the pic. The only solution to fix it so... The circle cutout was glued back in using Seal All. Undetectable unless the engine is removed.
Is it clogged? Best to work on it slowly soaking carb cleaner in it until it loosens up if so.
That's awesome!
Looks like it belongs on there. 20 years from now some O&R collector is going to be looking and searching for another one. Good thing the hunt is half the fun.
Pulled the wheels off to do some more work on the little bike. Here's the divot in the tire from the first video when it didn't have enough friction. It doesn't look that deep in the pic but it shaved off a good amount.
Too bad it didn't create any smoke or I would do a video of burning out that whole tire.
Believe it or not, that's part of the reason I wanted to run it. Doing strange stuff is part of the fun. The neighbors already think I'm nuts so going down the street with a fan and a bicycle would just be par for the coarse around here. It doesn't really blow with the force I expected but definitely moves a good volume of air.
The problem I had was separating the generator halves to get inside of that section for cleaning and repairs. That set up with the clutch connection will let it separate and go back together very easily. Not sure it really needs to come apart but just in case you wanted to open up the engine.
Got the fan all cleaned up and did the carb but then just wanted to see, hear and feel it run. Still need to do a yellow tank and the fuel line
IMG_0665(1).MOV
Curious why you think it may be a replacement engine vs original to the fan? The Industrial decal?
I don't have many or know much about the newer 13B engines as I prefer the older engines