Wallfish

Hurry up and stop fool'n around, you need time to get on that skateboard.

With that Chicken Power engine you should have everything you need to get an engine running and mounted on that bike with maybe the exception of a carb diaphragm. So I'm not sure exactly what you need or want. Do you want me to go through an engine for you and have it running? Or we can easily guide you through getting yours running which is probably faster. And less expensive.

The engine, gearbox and tire drive gear are the same exact thing as a Chicken Power unit which was used the same way to engage the front tire on a bicycle. Post some pics of what you have for engines and stuff and we can probably work something out if you need to.

Think I might have a whole spare engine with gearbox for one of those (NOS). That's the only engine I ever remember seeing with a purple decal on the recoil blower housing. Is the decal on the engine cover purple? Never got around to it but I was going to make one out of EMT pipe. It may be the gearbox that's stuck and not the engine. The old grease they used in them can get hard as a rock

I have a bunch of spare plates from ruined engines so this was one off the shelf. Think it came from the engine I just sent to JD for his blown TT. The dirty ones get soaked in a can of carb cleaner and sprayed off to clean them so they're ready to go for the next one. They can be a PITA to clean if doing them by hand with a brush and such. Not sure why it's so shiney but it is more so than others for some reason. I did polish up the exhaust manifold a little on the polish wheel. Those can be difficult to clean as well. The chrome on those is very thin and it doesn't take much to ruin one.

here's a pic of the washer type cap gaskets. Not sure when they changed but maybe David knows I bought a cheap set of O rings at Harbor Freight a while back. 2 sizes in there fit them both and there's about 10 of each

New rings, seals and gaskets. Just need to do the recoil, tighten the head, some cleaning and minor assembly. Oh, and a carb rebuild. Went fairly smooth today. Did learn one thing, sticking that thin little reed valve gasket in your mouth to soften it up works just as good as using gasoline. They will not go on dry so you need to wet them so they expand a little to fit.

@CNewIt's not as quick but works well Another trick I found for getting that old varnished horrible gas smell off your hands. Afterwashing and scrubbing with good soap, I finish up washing with a gel shave cream. It seems to do more than just mask the smell. @JUST O&R Yes, I just clean, lube and re use them

Since others are get'n busy with their O&R stuff, it motivated me to do some of mine. Thought this 400 model would take an easy engine swap but once dismantled, I noticed the tapered shaft for this generator is about 1/8 longer. Never knew that and always assumed all of those short tapered shafts were all the same. SO, complete engine rebuild is in order. Got it all apart and cleaned up today. Typically I use gasoline and a brush but did this one up in my office. Didn't want the gas smell so I used Seafoam which still stinks but no where near as bad. Then used some citrus degreaser and it all worked out well. My office smells like oranges. Someone was in this engine before because it's missing some gaskets. Found a replacement coil, another gas tank and an exhaust manifold which is clean and shiney.

Only looked at the cut off saw cap and the 2 on the donor Mustang saw when posting Just went out to look at more and the Lancaster saw does have Orings but the other Mustang also has washer type seals. They must have changed over at some point and maybe the IPLs will show different part numbers. Let me know if you want pics of the washer type

I've never taken one apart so can only offer guesses and suggestions. I know there is a compression release but don't know how it's connected to the engine. You can see the tube or bar at the bottom of your last pic.

Those aren't Orings but more of a flat washer, although I'm sure Orings will work. You can make them out of thick gasket material.

Here's an 8" cut off wheel. A 9" wheel may fit but only found them in packs of 25 https://www.grainger.com/product/4DDV1?cm_mmc=PPC:+MSN+PLA&s_kwcid=AL!2966!10!8973609365!1102900021209&ef_id=Ws1eMQAACx4pkpJ_:20200102222937:s Did you score a cut off saw Clint? Where's the pics?

Haven't yet

That cleaned up nice. Looks good

Just happened to be on the auction site yesterday while looking for something else and low and behold this was on there too. The auction was ending soon when I saw it so figured I'd take a stab at it. Pleasantly surprised to win one since these 400 models are pretty rare to come across even though I need another generator like a hole in the head. Guessing it needed too much work for most people since it went fairly cheap for what it is. Luckily, I have all the stuff to make this complete. Hopefully didn't outbid any of you guys

So 1/32 for the material is close enough for me. Just ordered some to check it out Thanks for measuring them!!!!!

Hell yeah, I'm 55 but don't really know it. Doing stupid stuff is one of my specialties. Only problem is if you send it up here you might not get it back. I've been wanting one of those for a while now. I'm always up for doing some trading for it too

Should I hold the gasket hostage until he rides it?

Not 100% sure if it's correct since I don't have a micrometer to measure them. I was just guessing but it should work. That gasket material linked was for the exhaust gaskets but it should also be good for the tank gasket. I'll send a tank gasket for you to copy. It's much easier that way than using the actual tank part for a template. Is there anything else you need so we can kill 2 birds with one shipment? BTW, where's the video of you riding that skateboard?

Can you measure the thickness? How about this? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rubber-Material-Sheet-High-Temp-1-32-Oil-Heat-Resistant-Engine-Repair-Gaskets/303281042753?epid=14025494408&hash=item469cf57541:g:FJ0AAOSwEO9deFfe

200137 is correct for that gas tank. Look at me, I feel like David knowing a part # for once. LoL. (I plucked one from the parts pile because I know exactly what it looks like and the number's right on it) Doubt there's enough demand to have Eric make a run on these but making them by hand is certainly worth the effort and time. He can CAD it up himself but the initial time involved is where the major expense is, plus the waste on material from the actual shape makes it a tough investment. Surprisingly, these are fairly thick material but having a plethora of different gasket material around isn't a bad thing when it comes to fixing any old machines. I've used everything from paper bags and cereal boxes to rubber roofing material over the years for making different gaskets. Any good auto parts store will have rolls of different materials and thicknesses and they're fairly inexpensive. These tank gaskets aren't a " tolerance heavy " item like an engine part gasket so anything that seals it will work, just as long as it will stand up to gasoline over time. Having Eric CAD up some exhaust gaskets might be worth the expense. After the case seals, it's the second most often place you'll find leaks. Especially if the engine has been taken apart. Heating the old ones with a torch right before reassembly helps with making them pliable again and sealing better so many can be re-used. Some do better than others in my experience but once they're damaged it's a problem. I've been toying with the idea of having Eric do a complete engine rebuild gasket set but haven't pulled the trigger on it.

Yeah, me too. Had mine for quite a few years and still don't really know what's all in there. Not that it's a huge amount but it's a lot of small parts. I know there was some good stuff in there among the more useless things but all of it is good to have since you collect and repair.

Pretty sure there's some tank gaskets in that parts stash I sent to you. Seemed like there was quite a bit of chainsaw parts in there. I have 2 NOS tank gaskets but would like to keep them. BUT, I can send you one to copy and just send it back. I use those paper hole punches for the little round screw holes. They make perfect holes in most materials and a sharp x-acto knife and or scissors to cut the big stuff. You can find a set of punches with different sizes fairly cheap. They work better than the hammer type of punches.

Real nice shape. Good find