Wallfish

Someone was in that engine before and put the wrong crank half in there. Swapped out engines but swapped a new crank into the first engine and everything is good to go

Thanks David, Already swapped everything over to the 176 and almost done with it. The only difference I noticed was the crank end

That came out nice. Is there a clutch in there or is that fan blade direct drive?

It's not the end of the world if that check valve has to be drilled but certainly better if not. Plus it's a pain as the rubber material wants to close back up and restrict the drilled hole. These little O&Rs can be challenging to work on and to get running properly but someone with your experience shouldn't have a problem. As worker tools, I think they suck and a bunch were probably smashed with a BFH by frustrated people. They make better display pieces. That 318 is a great machine and a top shelf homeowner tractor

I'm also a Wheel Horse collector and user. See you went to the dark side with JD. LoL Had about 20-25 at one point but slowed down some. Down to 2 RJ-58s, a 400 and 401, 654, 655 416-8 with Ark loader and home built backhoe, and a 520-HC with cab and 2 stage blower. Plus numerous custom built like the one in my avatar pic.. Glad you found us. Drillgine drills can be a pain because everything needs to come apart just to get to something else. Not difficult but time consuming compared to most. You'll probably need a Diaphragm once tou get that check valve figured out

Eventually you will run into them. They should have changed the whole carb design but instead they just kept throwing on band aids like that check valve. The carb is the worst thing on these engines but maybe they were ahead of their time. Make stuff so it fails after a while so you need to get it fixed or buy a new one.

No. DON"T use carb cleaner in it. It's a check valve with a rubber type of flapper inside and carb cleaner will swell it closed and locked. Hopefully I'm not too late. BTW Typcally you can push it open with the flat end of a paper clip or better yet the butt end of a drill bit that just fits inside but you gotta go easy and feel for it. Then try and blow through it to see if it's loose. Once loose you can use something that won't swell the rubber. I've been using citris degreaser for cleaning my engines recently and it disolves that old 2 stroke oil pretty good. Never tried for that but if you can keep pushing that stuff through eventuality it should clean it. then check the valve by blowing the other way and you should'nt be able to. then go back and blow and hopefully you're all set. When all else fails, drill a hole through it using that drill bit you tried with earlier. That's what I had to do after carb cleaner

You guys need to kiss David's @@@ because you may need someone to send it to you. And @pmackellow Paul's too. I had 2 sent over and sold one to Jim, @usedtoolman. Which reminds me, I need to get a hold of him and get him to participate on here again. Very smart and knowledgeable guy. Maybe the only 2 in the USA? The carb itself is not special at all. It's the parts they made to fit and do that is what's special. Fairly simple too. They moved it so the fan parts fit closer to the engine as the diaphragm section would've hit.

I got the fan blade off fairly easy by doing it like a flywheel. Loosen the bolt, hold the blade and hit the bolt with a rubber mallet. Did have a hard time getting that piece which holds the frame off of the engine. @factory David, what's the difference between a model 176 and 186? Thr Turbair is a 186 but I have a NOS real nice engine 176 which is a glow plug conversion. Just remove the glow plug and I can swap all the other engine pieces. The only real difference I think is the crank end. The 176 is tapered with the keyed grooves and the 176 is just tapered. The connection does not require the keyed grooves. Probably just swap it anyway.

Almost forgot about this unique and very interesting feature of these things. Notice where the diaphragm section of the carb is. It's not connected to the carb body and feeds fuel remotely through a fuel line

Trying to keep up with JUST O&R is a real pain! This just so happened to be the closest box on the shelf but have been intending to get to this one. I have the correct recoil cover with the label and the chrome could use some cleaning. I'll dis-assemble the entire engine and unit to clean and freshen everything up. These are cool little insecticide spraying fans from across the pond.

I was think'n about a belt guard but cleaning up the pulleys with fresh paint and leaving it open looks more old school and dangerous. Besides I'm not sure Terry's up for making a me more stuff just yet. Wore him out on the engine mount for this one.

Just some final pics before it goes back out to the shed. This one is pretty much all done too except for the little rubber feet. Just need to pick up the hardware and attach them.

See if you can grab David. Then sell it to @JUST O&R (For a big healthy profit of coarse)

Got it all together with Terry's mount, which will get painted silver hammer tone once it warms up a bit. The belt on there fits but a shorter wider belt will look better.

Not a common piece over here.

Leaking crank case seals can cause fuel mixture adjustment problems. Runs good, then doesn't, then adjust, then the same thing happens again, then adjust again and it happens again. That's most likely bad case seals. Leaking air around the carb gaskets can do that too.

We can always add a shim ring if the compressibility properties are more squishable than anticipated. The next guy who finds 4 rings is gonna have to figure out what's going on. (see what I did there?) Or do they offer that same material in .035 or .036?

I need another chainsaw like a hole in the head. Probably have about 10 or more and don't even burn wood. Actually need to get rid of some stuff and or get going on the many projects stacked up on the list.

I thought you just wanted to clean it up?

Did ya get it? And by asking "is it of interest"? Does that mean you want to sell it?

Are you stating the word "squish" isn't the right term?

Yes that's an O&R saw and there's plenty of interest in it here. I know I'm interested.

To power that scooter you would need to gear it down quite a bit. We used to have other members from Australia on the old forum so there must be some engines available there. Finding an engine with a gearbox will give some reduction plus it will have a centrifugal clutch. That would help immensely getting everything powered in a smaller package. Get that thing going and and race 50 meters and time it. That way @JUST O&R can finally get on that Tobey Cart and race you!

Nice Let us know how you make out. These won't need to be a total precision cut down to the .001 so cutting them with your new tool should be fine. The biggest hurdle will be the head lining up correctly when tight so the thickness is more critical. If that material has some "squish" to it then it probably doesn't matter as much.