Wallfish

Sorry Clint. I took these for ya a couple weeks ago but don't believe I ever sent them to you. The last pic is the shaft with the engine removed

No (and yes). My guess is the crank case seals are leaking (like most) A 2 stroke can run with leaking case seals but for best performance the case needs to be sealed.

Another nice find. With the popularity of those little Mantis tillers, I'm surprised we don't see more of these. Luckily the entire fuel vent is still on there. These were also badged under a few different names

Webhead has or had one or two. Think he kept one and sold one but can't remember. Those things go for big money

Yes. That felt washer is there just to hold oil. The original rivet has a hole through the center for adding a couple drops of oil (With the repair for the cup using a rivet or nut and bolt you won't be able to oil it through the oil hole anyway.)

It may be badged "Powr Mite" but it's the same as a tiny tiger. The roller diameter is not that critical in my opinion. Use just about anything close and cut to length. I've used the metal rods which are for holding up pink insulation between floor joists. PM me your address and name, I have some diaphragms for $10 each. Having a good diaphragm is critical. Clean the points contacts under the flywheel and check for spark. I see some repairing on that coil so you want to check for spark. Leave the plug out and you can spin the flywheel by hand to check for spark.

What a great find. Always nice to see an unknown tool show up. Become a supporter and have unlimited space. It's a small investment to help keep the lights on around here. Karl hosts the site and it costs money to do it and he doesn't go the advertising route, as so many places do. Click the "STORE" button up in the yellow banner

Here's a video of Joe's @Webhead son with a Chicken Power

That's a new and interesting application. Nice find!

Not that I have ever seen but strange and unique tools tend to show up every once in a while. My guess would be that it's not O&R but... Could the thick rings be for a steam or air powered piston for something completely different than a saw? Just guessing as I had no idea they ever drove anything directly from a gas engine piston

That's a nice find. AND you got all of the parts. Like many other O&R tools, they're branded under different names and this one is the same as a Chicken Power but the decal. Never saw one of those before. The muffler is different as well and actually a more heavy duty Nelson rather than just a thin can. Do you think the paint is original?

Just figured this item number may help if anyone wants to replace the starter rope(s) on their engines. Especially the ones where the engine and or tool has been refurbished or rebuilt. It closely matches the original braided rope. It's fairly inexpensive and 100 ft goes a long way. Here's on spot to buy but possibly cheaper if you search around https://www.stenspartswarehouse.com/Stens-145-600-p/145-600.htm

No, it uses a gearbox.

OR, easily changed to another engine.

Because they don't work that great and the lack of power. Not to mention the carbs suck (except for gas and air) so I'm sure many people just gave up. Certainly good for us collectors many years later! I have a Homelite XL100 saw that will power through a 4x4 easily with an aggressive blade at full depth. Fun to use but it's heavy.

Are we talking about the screw on the older carb which is in place of the newer adjustment needle valve to hold the halves together? If so, I can take a look around but it's probably easier to make a shorter one or paint one black. https://www.mcmaster.com/fillister-head-machine-screws You can probably find some more by searching the net. https://www.grainger.com/category/fasteners/screws/machine-screws?attrs=Dia.%2FThread+Size|%2310-32&filters=attrs Pan head style. https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-32-Phillips-Pan-Head-Machine-Screws-Steel-w-Black-Oxide-SAE-Fine-Inch/122761523310?var=423185940513&hash=item1c9528306e:m:mfOVDzT8wTz20qM0IBtB89Q:sc:USPSFirstClass!01524!US!-1

Nice job repairing that coil! Might as well have tried to fix it. It was already broke so nothing to loose if it didn't work. Show off! Actually, not sure I would've collected so many if it wasn't for Joe. I found a couple tools and had no idea of what they really were or there were so many different types of tools made. Then I found Joe and he had plenty of advise and some spare parts to boot. So @Webhead is responsible for the madness. Do you have one of those old school saws David?

Show off! I've never seen that early type David posted before. Even the coil cover is old school.

35 years, and I thought I was a procrastinator. I'm lightning fast now compared to you. LoL The blower housing is an early version as David noticed but the coil isn't. I have a couple of the earlier saws with the can style tank like yours. Think the other tank style is branded under a different name

Many Compact engines were sold just as utility engines only and didn't necessarily have an intended purpose or tool to attach to them. That was up to the person who bought them. Model B came with that type of tank and the crank extension. Not sure exactly what's up with that particular tank venting set up.

Maybe those old seals started at .031, and now after many years in the engine, they end up measuring .036 ? Gas, oil, heat, friction, time and you're measuring a worn seal. What does the shaft measure where the seal rides? Or maybe that's what you measured, IDK Seems to me a tight fit of .005 under for the ID is better than a loose fit of .004 over

Think there might be some 20A parts in the stuff I'm sending you. maybe some gaskets but I didn't go through it very thorough. I do have a couple of NOS reed valves for those in my parts stash. Is the compression release closing?

I did a write up on doing one, it's on here somewhere. Isn't that a band which goes around the center of the generator separt?

Send me a private message with your name and address. I have some diaphragms available. .

That Lubriplate 105 liquefies pretty fast with just a little heat so I'm sure the friction of the gears takes care of that. Then most of it solidifies again but there's still an oily liquid part. Unless you plan on using them for doing actual work, I wouldn't worry about it at all. If it's just going to sit on a bench for display, probably best not to have the oil leak out