Wallfish

IMO they actually look better without the plastic cover. I attached a drillgine gas tank to one of mine and it gets a lot of attention at the shows. A vertical style normal O&R round tank with a bracket would look good too

Try searching around the net for U cup seals like this https://www.mcmaster.com/cup-seals

There was a guy on the old forum that had one of those cars he was restoring. Believe he was from France.

Think I have a couple of reed valves and some other misc parts. You got a spare engine coming in that parts pile I just picked up. What parts are you looking for

Sending a PM

That's a steel rod from the foot throttle control and the spring is the tension for it

David is correct. That generator is the most common O&R tool out there so there are quite a few available at any given time. Sentimental value does not effect cost so I suggest you keep it. Clean it up, get it running and use it for a conversation piece and memories of your grandfather. That's where the most value is in my opinion.

Ummm, I have moderator status now and you're tempting me to ban you from the forum!

I've been looking for one of those for a while. So far have only seen beat up boards with many missing parts. That one appears to be in very nice condition. Howard Stern fan?

What they should have done was totally re-design the entire carb but they just kept putting band-aids on them for the entire run. Primer button, check valves, remove screens, ect. The carb is the weak link of these engines

Did you ever have Eric cut those for you?

Nice find! The paint looks looks really good and no rust on the handle. That should clean up nicely.

Yes. I picked up some at an old school hardware store in the little "treasure drawers" that have all the old stuff. Most of the time cleaning them works but it's possible it could be sticking.

Check the check valve ball bearing. If I remember correctly there was service bulletin to change that ball every time a carb was in for service. It can stick closed. Also, always blow air through the fuel inlet after servicing a carb. If the valve is closing correctly you should not be able to blow any air through until you push the primer button. Sometimes the cap pushes down on the arm if the arm is "tweaked". and doesn't allow it to completely seal. I found it easier to use the paper gasket in that situation rather than messing around with the arm. Leaking crankcase seals cause loss of pressure and vacuum inside the case which is what pulses the diaphragm so sometimes a better carb works just to get it running. Try the old one on the engine which the known good carb came from as well. That may help you hunt down the issue.

I was referring to the drill. It looks like a Flash Gordon gun Why didn't you grab the drill in Jan. ? Do you already have one?

My grandson was there when I opened the box for mine. He got all excited when he saw it and asked "Can I shoot it too?" He thought it was a weird gun of some sort.

bet you were just a bit skeptical on how well it work before trying it, huh? I use WD-40 to clear off all of the water , let dry, coat with oil then wipe off the oil with a dry rag. The oil will stay in the pits and help protect it from further deterioration. steel wool will leave scratches as it's harder than the chrome. Most bikers will not use it on their chrome parts because of that and you can see the scratches when it's out in the sun.

Never really looked at it close. Last weekend was the first time it came out of the box. Didn't see it. Those are a rare rare item and I paid $350 ?? plus shipping for mine Just looked it up and it went for $149. Bet if it was listed under O&R it could've fetched $350 plus

Nice find. Try cleaning the chrome handle with crumpled up aluminum foil and water. Or coca-cola. It works really well and doesn't leave scratch marks.

The switch just grounds the points to stop the engine. So wherever that wire connects doesn't necessarily make any difference. It should connect to the engine the same way as the Mustang saw does. Can't remember exactly but I'm pretty sure there's just a short pigtail wire from the nut on the points post up to the handle, and the two wires connect together with small solderless crimp on connectors.

Thanks for the link! Just ordered that plastic one. It's for a guy in Sweden that contacted me about some parts. I'll check it out and see if it fits proper first. Looks like it does and then the box was used for a conversion.

Well it's about time! Don't think I've ever seen them with that label. Could just be European since it's 240v. David, are you aware of any replacements for the ceramic electrical plug on the TTs? Thought maybe @usedtoolman Jim may have found something a long time ago but but it may have gotten lost with the old forum.

That's a new one on me. I've seen pics of the sluice type units where the O&R powers the water pump

Could this be from a sno tiger? Not sure if you were there yet or remember but there was a post on the old forum when a guy had a whole bunch of stuff but he would never reply so I don't think anyone was able to buy it. Anyway, he had some type of vacuum/blower thingys. Maybe?

For $2.20 you can't go wrong. Are you having Eric cut these?