Maybe those old seals started at .031, and now after many years in the engine, they end up measuring .036 ? Gas, oil, heat, friction, time and you're measuring a worn seal. What does the shaft measure where the seal rides? Or maybe that's what you measured, IDK
Seems to me a tight fit of .005 under for the ID is better than a loose fit of .004 over
Think there might be some 20A parts in the stuff I'm sending you. maybe some gaskets but I didn't go through it very thorough.
I do have a couple of NOS reed valves for those in my parts stash.
Is the compression release closing?
That Lubriplate 105 liquefies pretty fast with just a little heat so I'm sure the friction of the gears takes care of that. Then most of it solidifies again but there's still an oily liquid part. Unless you plan on using them for doing actual work, I wouldn't worry about it at all. If it's just going to sit on a bench for display, probably best not to have the oil leak out
Didn't see anything referring to model 25 on there. Mine is all apart still sitting in the box but I'll pull it out and get some pics.
The paint was horrible on these and think mine probably looks worse than that ebay pic for the rocket line.
Looks like the same yellow as I recall but with a MONO brand round circle decal about the same size as that one.
Has the same electrical conduit set up for extending to the air filter.
The saw Jim bought was missing the bar cover and of coarse the decal, but he made a real nice replica using the one on mine as a pattern for both the cover and the decal.
Get a can of this for soaking stuff. works much better for clean soaking the carbs plus you just use it over and over again. Dirty gas is a pain to get rid of.
https://www.powersportsid.com/gunk/carburetor-and-parts-cleaner-with-drip-basket-mpn-cc3k.html?view=327493&utm_source=microsoft&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=268680876&utm_content=1176478073060724
Unfortunately the carb cleaners now-a-days are pussified because of the EPA standards and they don't work near as well as the old dangerous stuff did.
Looks like you found a Chicken Power
My go to cleaner for most of this stuff is gasoline and carb cleaner. Soaking parts overnight makes it easier and then spray it off with the carb cleaner. The paint can type carb cleaner works great for soaking parts and the carbs.
Carb cleaner will quickly wipe out any decals. It'll remove paint too so use care and judgement. Also in the arsenal for cleaning are Q-tips, old tooth brushes, toothpicks, and compressed air plus anything else I can find
If an alternative replacement U-cup seal in this particular weird size range for O&R continues to be non-existent
Post the size of the seal for easier searching. That X style appears like it would be better than a simple O ring but...
It's my thought the U cup style was used because the case pressure will tighten the seal from that case pressure pushing inside the U of the cup
IMO they actually look better without the plastic cover.
I attached a drillgine gas tank to one of mine and it gets a lot of attention at the shows. A vertical style normal O&R round tank with a bracket would look good too
Think I have a couple of reed valves and some other misc parts.
You got a spare engine coming in that parts pile I just picked up. What parts are you looking for
David is correct. That generator is the most common O&R tool out there so there are quite a few available at any given time. Sentimental value does not effect cost so I suggest you keep it. Clean it up, get it running and use it for a conversation piece and memories of your grandfather. That's where the most value is in my opinion.
I've been looking for one of those for a while. So far have only seen beat up boards with many missing parts. That one appears to be in very nice condition.
Howard Stern fan?