Wallfish

I leave them in there as well but these aren't being run very often either.

The dreaded recoil spring. Nothing worse than getting it all back together and then discovering it was wound the wrong way and it's a redo.

See, David got excited and impressed so much by these little screamers at high rpm he's now the O&R guru.

I bought one from him a while ago. Opened the box, looked at it and closed the box. Though I'd rather have one of the type with a little 1hp classic O&R. Buffalo Turbine It'll get displayed at one of the local engine shows this year.

I'd just go with David's idea. It only needs to ground the points. I know those handles are a tight fit so less wires is helpful but not if you got a ruin the switch

That appears to be a nut which holds the tabs and isolators all together.

@K-TRON Chris was in my area yesterday visiting some of his family and he needed some diaphragms. Unfortunately I didn't have much time to have him visit my house and check out the collections of stuff, but maybe next time. It's always enjoyable to pull that stuff out of those hibernation boxes and share them with other interested people. They'll make it out to a local show or two this year.

If the switch comes apart, you can just remove that insulation ring which David pointed the green arrow to. The switch body appears to be isolated from those tabs and by removing that insulation ring you are just connecting the tab to the switch body. The switch body will connect to ground when it's installed on the handle and therefore ground the the wire when the the button is pressed which connects those 2 contacts. Either way you do it will work fine.

IMO if you are going for a running display engine to demonstrate, go FWO. Those little things scream at high rpm and it's quite a bit more exciting like that than a slow idling engine with momentary high rpm by controlling it! It's the first impression that's gets'em excited so instant full blast always works. just my $0.02 on it.

BEFORE smashing them with a hammer! The best way to learn in my opinion is to just keep at it. You'll figure out what works and what doesn't but it can easily get frustrating at times.

Glad you got her going. To me it sounds like it might've been flooding. Carb needle opened too far. If the seals are leaking too much it will be difficult to dial in the carb. Sometimes you can get them to start easy but not run right and/or run right but not start easy. Once you get playing around with these enough, you'll learn quickly.

Think the Lubriplate will still work even if you did run it hard. I use it in the front worm gear gearbox on my tractor's 2 stage snow blower instead of gear oil. There's also a product called Corn Head grease which is made for John Deere for using in gearboxes for leaking seals.

I fill mine with the Lubriplate grease. It stays thick enough not to leak out any questionable seals but thin enough not to restrict movement of the gears with friction. My thought being that the drill isn't being used daily or even hard so for display, there's not much risk and there is still enough lubricant to run and operate it once in a while.

The screw stop is the adjustment for running speed along with the governor adjustment if so equipped. 2 Strokes run at higher rpm and O&R compacts high end is typically 6000 rpm (I believe but maybe David can verify this?) The rpm can be adjusted by that governor adjustment thingy you needed a spring for and the screw to push open the throttle. not sure of your experience with 2 strokes but they do run fast and loud! Which is part of the reason why I like'm! Post a video if you can

@Webhead Joe posted a technique using a blown up balloon attached to the exhaust manifold to check and test crank seal leakage. A 2 stroke engine needs the case sealed to perform properly, not saying it won't start and run with leaking seals as I have many that do. But, any engine that gets pulled apart, you might as well do the seals. Much easier for me as I have a stash of parts but just thought I'd throw this out there. Easier starting and you can adjust the carb without the engine "wondering" between good performance and bad at different RPM. More critical on anything with a throttle control because of the idling to full rpm. . I might have some gearbox gaskets too but... If you're going to get into taking these things completely apart then do yourself a favor and get a diversified stash of gasket materials, a good set of sharp scissors and some hole punches. Make your own gaskets which will save a lot of time and the initial expense will pay for itself fairly quick.

As far as Razburn"s item being NOS, it's my opinion it is used although seems to be very little and or well kept. The starter rope only gets dirty from pulling the starter rope many times. The dust created from the spring friction inside the stater housing grinds off some dust and it sticks to the rope in the spool. A clean rope is certainly not always an absolute to an engine being NOS because that can always be changed but a dirty rope is a clear indication the starter has been pulled many times. Of coarse there are always exceptions to any rule! It's possible it doesn't take that many pulls to make it dirty as I never counted how many pulls would actually do this or how many licks it takes to get to the center of a tootsie pop. Just an observation and the exhaust manifold also has some rust spots. Again, not a clear indication of used but seeing a perfect clean rope and a clean perfect exhaust manifold does indicate NOS. (But possible both can be changed!) Here's one on epay right now and stole the pic. That is an old style rope and perfectly clean. Possibly never pulled over

They don't come off easy! Especially one that's been on there since the late 60s. The sudden impact it was cracks it loose as it's on there tight. Try the impact gun. CCW looking straight at the chuck jaws.

Wollowing out that hole for the key is another issue with doing the way the instructions state. Use the chuck jaws clamped down on a hex to be safe.

Think I have some but will have to check. I know a mouse found my box of parts and made a house in the cigar box inside which is where all the gaskets are. Some are destroyed. Or use Yamabond #4 gasket sealer. Holds up to gasoline

Take out the screw inside at the bottom of the jaws first, Tighten a 1/4" or bigger hex tool into the jaws and strike that rather than using the key in the hole. There's too much risk of damaging the the teeth on the chuck by using the key in one of the holes if it doesn't come loose very easily. You can also use a straight 1/4" hex tightened in the jaws and use an impact gun on the other end to get it loose. Don't see a screw in the drawing above but that's how most chucks are fastened. Skip if not present

Is this what you mean?

The guy that laser cuts the diaphragms is going to get another sheet of diaphragm material from me to cut more. (even though I have plenty now but the material isn't doing anything folded up in a box on the shelf either so...) He'll cut and make just about any type of gasket so if anyone has any requests for other gaskets, please let me know and we can include it all in the same order. It's always best to send him a NOS gasket to copy but exact measurements or even the actual part will do. Was thinking about pulling apart the O&R engine I did in the rebuild thread to get that full set but I certainly won't need 100 gasket sets for 10 lifetimes and certain gaskets aren't needed regularly. BUT, I was thinking the most common stuff would be the exhaust gaskets and the very thin induction gasket. Let me know what you guys think would be the most helpful and useful to have. He posted his info here on MoM a while back so it's not limited to just O&R gaskets. If you ever need any new gaskets cut for ANYTHING he is your guy. Very easy to work with, very fair pricing, very accurate gaskets, highly recommended! The Gasket man Eric Adams carplaylb@yahoo.com

This was posted before on the old forum. It's still interesting. We had a bunch of stuff and information there and wish I could've captured it all to move here before they shut us down. Bunch of hacks over there at forumer so I'm glad Karl was nice enough to allow the O&R forum to move here.

Nope! Mine is also a Creme Lure but for some reason thought it was a Nichols. It does have the DC connections and good plastic without warping in it. Maybe there's also a Nichols out there? Never spent any time on this since it was bought except pulling out the old batteries. My O&R stuff has been neglected for far too long. Here's some pics of it 6 and 12v connections Has this little red plastic knob on the carb needle adjustment screw Not sure what or why this hole was made in the handle. The top was ground to be flat for which I would assume would be for a nut to rest flat. ??