Wallfish

Here's a long bristle brush, kind of expensive but... I typically get a bunch of cheapies at the engine shows from the vendors, they're like 3 for $1 but will maybe check this one out too. https://www.homedepot.com/p/ProLine-Nylon-Bristle-Grout-Brush-BWK9008/203175883 Old toothbrushes work well too for most things

Haven't tried other brands yet. Picked this one off the shelf at Home Depot because it was cheap. It doesn't have a strong citrus smell either. Just very subtle. It's still a messy job. Forgot to mention I use a small bristle brush too, looks like a tooth brush but has longer bristles to reach down in there. There's also citrus paint remover which works well. The wife had some so I stole the bottle one day to try. It works well but not as fast as solvent based but the trade off is worth it. https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-32-oz-Citrus-Degreaser-21568948601/203420801

So far I'm a big fan of using the citrus degreaser. It doesn't stink so it can be used in the house. This allows me more opportunity to get stuff done during the winter months and late in the evening. It works well for cutting through the common 2 stroke oil grime on these engines and attachments. This engine plate was done late last night in my office, going out to do it in the shed is a big hassle and cold so it won't happen. It took about 15-20 minutes using paper towels and some Q-tips. I use a small bucket to spray over and the small parts thrown in the bottom get soaked by the dripping excess at the same time. I have an old gas tank with old gas and that stink so I'll try that outside and see what happens. Hopefully neutralizes that horrible stink. BEFORE AFTER. There's still some minor little spots in the nooks and crannies but that happens with solvent too. Typically I'll use a toothpick to scrape those clean. The wood doesn't scratch

I used to get'm ALL running tested and adjusted but they just sit there for display. If fuel goes through them the carbs will need to be gone through again anyway. Some possibly the points from sitting so now they just get cleaned and assembled. It's the old gas residue in them that causes more problems. The next guy can tinker and tune.

It was the wrong crank shaft in that engine which protruded out too far. Swapped it out with another type and all is good now. The spare shaft I had is with the 2 key ways but that taper is the same as the others. The key ways fit with the old school clutches with the cork like pads . I'm just leaving the newer type engine on there and will keep the rebuilt one for the next project.

I already have WAY too many chainsaws for someone that doesn't burn wood. It's definitely a cool saw with the big engine. PM me what you want to offer him and I'll give it a shot for you. That way it'll be ready when you are if they accept.

Looks great! Someday I'll get to mine. Missing the little cooling baffle. Think I have some

Ha, that's about how my parts stash looks too. I can peek for some of those seals too I didn't know Terry had such a big stash ! Maybe we should start a parts trade thread as I have multiples of some parts but not any of others. We may have mostly all the same stuff since what they didn't use then, we don't use now but I'm sure there has to be some stuff to trade. He calls it a Tecumseh engine in the video

Thanks but i have other crank shafts and another engine is already to go and attached to the generator. Just need to clean the aluminum plate it sits on and order some rubber feet which were missing to finish it up. When I get some time, I'll pull it apart again and compare the crank to another one to try and figure out what is going on with it.

The original engine is the one I rebuilt but that shaft protrudes out too far to work with the generator. If it was indeed the original engine, it came with it but that doesn't mean anything. I even opened it back up to have a look see and everything is good. I'm guessing that shaft is from a different engine but I thought the cases were all pretty much the same. I miss David, he always has the part # info to validate this kind of stuff. Hope he's doing OK

Set back It was mentioned earlier about the tapered shaft lengths and the one which came with the 400 is too long. When I first tested it on the engine I was going to use, the 2 tapers didn't match right to lock the shafts together. As it turns out, the longer one pushes the generator's armature out, which pushes the rear bearing out just a little to far for the cover cap to fit. It was never noticed before I went to install that cover that the armature was not in the correct position and therefore would not match with the longer taper shaft. Someone was definitely in this engine before because the gaskets were missing when I opened it up. So now after going through that whole engine, can't use it. I'll have to figure out what's up with that shaft and why it's like it is. Certainly didn't notice anything unusual while assembling it. Now I'll use the more modern engine but after all that work it would've been nice to keep the old school style. Here's a pic with 2 tapers end to end. It looks like the shaft of the engine is out too far yet it will not push inside the case any further.

I have diaphragms and stuff. The one reason I offered my engine is because something like that old mini bike is worth letting one go to have that thing complete again. Even if it's not mine because It's a very cool and rare old piece. I'll find that engine and take a look at it, install a new diaphragm and fire it up to be sure it's operational. Then we can talk. The thing is, if it is NOS without ever being ran, I would not run it at all since it won't be NOS after doing so. Are your plans to fire that thing up and ride it or just have it as a display piece or ?

Don't show him That!!!!!!! Now we'll never get to see him on that thing. LoL

Hurry up and stop fool'n around, you need time to get on that skateboard.

With that Chicken Power engine you should have everything you need to get an engine running and mounted on that bike with maybe the exception of a carb diaphragm. So I'm not sure exactly what you need or want. Do you want me to go through an engine for you and have it running? Or we can easily guide you through getting yours running which is probably faster. And less expensive.

The engine, gearbox and tire drive gear are the same exact thing as a Chicken Power unit which was used the same way to engage the front tire on a bicycle. Post some pics of what you have for engines and stuff and we can probably work something out if you need to.

Think I might have a whole spare engine with gearbox for one of those (NOS). That's the only engine I ever remember seeing with a purple decal on the recoil blower housing. Is the decal on the engine cover purple? Never got around to it but I was going to make one out of EMT pipe. It may be the gearbox that's stuck and not the engine. The old grease they used in them can get hard as a rock

I have a bunch of spare plates from ruined engines so this was one off the shelf. Think it came from the engine I just sent to JD for his blown TT. The dirty ones get soaked in a can of carb cleaner and sprayed off to clean them so they're ready to go for the next one. They can be a PITA to clean if doing them by hand with a brush and such. Not sure why it's so shiney but it is more so than others for some reason. I did polish up the exhaust manifold a little on the polish wheel. Those can be difficult to clean as well. The chrome on those is very thin and it doesn't take much to ruin one.

here's a pic of the washer type cap gaskets. Not sure when they changed but maybe David knows I bought a cheap set of O rings at Harbor Freight a while back. 2 sizes in there fit them both and there's about 10 of each

New rings, seals and gaskets. Just need to do the recoil, tighten the head, some cleaning and minor assembly. Oh, and a carb rebuild. Went fairly smooth today. Did learn one thing, sticking that thin little reed valve gasket in your mouth to soften it up works just as good as using gasoline. They will not go on dry so you need to wet them so they expand a little to fit.

@CNewIt's not as quick but works well Another trick I found for getting that old varnished horrible gas smell off your hands. Afterwashing and scrubbing with good soap, I finish up washing with a gel shave cream. It seems to do more than just mask the smell. @JUST O&R Yes, I just clean, lube and re use them

Since others are get'n busy with their O&R stuff, it motivated me to do some of mine. Thought this 400 model would take an easy engine swap but once dismantled, I noticed the tapered shaft for this generator is about 1/8 longer. Never knew that and always assumed all of those short tapered shafts were all the same. SO, complete engine rebuild is in order. Got it all apart and cleaned up today. Typically I use gasoline and a brush but did this one up in my office. Didn't want the gas smell so I used Seafoam which still stinks but no where near as bad. Then used some citrus degreaser and it all worked out well. My office smells like oranges. Someone was in this engine before because it's missing some gaskets. Found a replacement coil, another gas tank and an exhaust manifold which is clean and shiney.

Only looked at the cut off saw cap and the 2 on the donor Mustang saw when posting Just went out to look at more and the Lancaster saw does have Orings but the other Mustang also has washer type seals. They must have changed over at some point and maybe the IPLs will show different part numbers. Let me know if you want pics of the washer type

I've never taken one apart so can only offer guesses and suggestions. I know there is a compression release but don't know how it's connected to the engine. You can see the tube or bar at the bottom of your last pic.