Wallfish

Just in time too. I was gonna do ya a big favor and send ya this funny! I missed this before

I do have some base mount tanks but it would still need to be supported at the PTO shaft or it will break off those little tabs. Think it's also possible to turn the compressor so the shaft is 90 deg and then reposition the handle and air output to where they are now. It would probably look cooler with pulleys and a belt but...

I should have a soup can tank bracket if you need one. I still owe ya! IMO they look better without the plastic cover. But if it does have one, it's good to keep it original. Only the early covers have the threads on the covers. The majority will have the threads on the plates and the screw heads facing the recoil. Mustang style chainsaws have the threads on the tank and the cover and plate don't have threads.

You can see it in these pics. Yellow outboard in the middle of my display. I can get some close ups. I'm with Clint, the soup can would probably look better but...

Clint and you were posting up all kinds of stuff so I picked up my game to join in. They don't necessarily need to have a water cooled head but it needs the air flow if it doesn't. Can't believe you guys left that motor up there for so long either. I thought everybody knew something I didn't. Shipping big expensive RC boats can be a gamble. I'll be searching for something local and hope to find one. Or just build something for it. Built one a long time ago with a weedeater trimmer engine and used it to catch Bass with. It wasn't fast but it was more like a tug boat. Funny watching fish jump behind an RC boat pulling them in. I might have some old pics.

Unfortunately this engine does not have that rotary valve but still have 2 more engines to check. Received a box of NOS Octura parts and I already have a radio and servos somewhere. Now to find nice old vintage boat to power up.

Found this compressor and engine but it's obviously not the Orline style. Came with a paint gun too It's missing the engine mount but I'm thinking this might have been an electric motor model. IDK Wondering if @JUST O&R Terry is up for the challenge of making a motor mount?

I did one with a Drillgine tank. I'll get some pics

Crap! I shoulda sent some of those too. Plus Eric is very good at finding the correct material too. He found the mylar? plastic we used for those check valves.

NOS gaskets are in the box I sent you with the vertical tank you needed. Also sent a piece of the baking paper I have. it's even the right color but might be too thin.

where does this gasket go? Never mind, found it on the older engine IPL for the muffler. Don't remember seeing a gasket there before but I haven't played with them for a while.

I was looking at that but when holding it up to the saw, the guard opening is centered when it's on the outside, plus there's less places to deflect sparks and collect dust so I assumed it might go on the outside. Was wondering how long it would take the factory correct police to catch me! Not long, I'm a horrible criminal

There's additional cutters for that stuff too. Just way too expensive for how many gaskets I would need it for. Rather have Eric do it with more precision https://www.amazon.com/Allpax-AX1402-Non-Metal-Cutter-Steel/dp/B00KJB272Y/ref=pd_bxgy_3/134-5562520-8220452?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00KJB272Y&pd_rd_r=01c869b0-7847-4622-b19a-7ceb4757234e&pd_rd_w=yGMyf&pd_rd_wg=hrpU2&pf_rd_p=fd08095f-55ff-4a15-9b49-4a1a719225a9&pf_rd_r=3BVWCGPYAM5GRW9ADMWS&psc=1&refRID=3BVWCGPYAM5GRW9ADMWS

Good info there Clint! That .006 might squish enough to work. Let Eric cut and send a few samples to try before making the big commitment of just making a bunch. The reed gasket can just be a go IMO. One thing foe sho is to get more of the induction gaskets compared to the reed gaskets. Those thin little things break too easy. The Nos gaskets will swell a little when wet which is completely necessary to get them on so trying a couple to make sure they work is important, just in case the size needs to be tweaked a little.

The material won't go far because there's going to be quite a bit of waste. Unfortunately the 2 sizes overlap so waste is going to be 90% of the material unless we can figure out how to use the center circle area for something else. I'll box up the stuff today and get it sent. Or we could get Terry to buy and try this https://www.amazon.com/Allpax-AX7000-Mounted-Rotary-Gasket/dp/B00KJB2OWM/ref=sr_1_16?crid=1N1V0QNGZU7PX&keywords=gasket+cutter&qid=1580048214&sprefix=gasket+cutter%2Chpc%2C166&sr=8-16 And I'll try this one https://www.amazon.com/QST-Compass-Circular-Patchwork-1cm-30cm/dp/B01M650KQX/ref=sr_1_40?crid=1N1V0QNGZU7PX&keywords=gasket+cutter&qid=1580048404&sprefix=gasket+cutter%2Chpc%2C166&sr=8-40 I haven't. They seal pretty good without gluing them but some get roughed up from removing them. Stuff like that might make it tough to get the head back off. BUT, I have thought about covering the used gaskets with something like that and then letting it dry before installing the gaskets. That way it won't stick the head and manifold in place and might provide a better seal. Certainly worth trying either way

It was like Christmas morning yesterday at the mailbox. Received that paper gasket material from Clint too and checked it out this morning. I'm thinking that material might be too thick at .006 for those induction pieces because they fit together with a very tight tolerance. BUT, I'm also using the accurate scientific method of feeling with my fingers to measure them! It does seem perfect for the bigger 5-6 reed valve gasket but very difficult to tell for the 5-5 induction gasket because the gasket is so small. 5-5 seems thinner to me but correct measuring would help. The wife has some baking parchment paper in a drawer so I pulled it out to have a look and it seems like it may work very well if we need a thinner material for the 5-5. Very thin, high heat and pretty durable material. Plus it's plentiful and cheap. Either way we should be able to get these cut and have some stock. How do you guys wanna work this? Send the NOS gaskets and both samples directly to Eric for him to inspect and cut a few? Send the NOS gaskets and parchment sample to Clint for measuring and inspection and he can work with Eric for the gaskets? Either way, I don't mind paying for all of it upfront and we can divide it up later on when the gaskets are ready. We should include some for David and I can send him a package with gaskets and more diaphragms. Thoughts?

Terry @JUST O&R the metal man hooked me up with a blade guard for the saw. Couldn't wait to install it and it looks great. Thanks again !

It's perfect!

Holly Molly Terry!!!!!! Sure am glad I was nice to you now. Terry sent me this guard for the cutoff saw. THANK YOU!!!

Nope, this isn't the sunny world of NC up here so freeze'n my &uts off to go out to it wasn't a priority, Until now

I know. Glad you found us too! It helps when members contribute and share their knowledge.

Plus my wife is semi disabled and doesn't drive so I have to do all that running around too. It's not as bad as it sounds because I'm not working for someone else's dream, but I'd definitely prefer sitting around counting my money all day. If I can find and hire good people it would be closer to the desk job but everyone wants to be the vice president from day one and not work with expectations of being overpaid. So I just do it all right now

I actually have to work for a living. 7 days a week and about 70 + hours. Just got home and still have a couple hours of quotes, emails, paperwork and phone calls. I pop in here to keep an eye on you guys in between calls and emails.

I got your package but haven't sent your stuff yet. Got it boxed up and Clint's stuff too. I'll send it asap

did that shaft have a screw in it holding it to the crank? If so, screw it back in with very slight gap between the head of the screw and the end of the shaft, hold the shaft or put in a vice and strike the head of the screw with a hammer to separate it. Just guessing it's a taper fit like the flywheel but could be something else. I use a hard rubber mallet so it doesn't distort the heads or nuts being hit..