Wallfish

Can you measure the thickness? How about this? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rubber-Material-Sheet-High-Temp-1-32-Oil-Heat-Resistant-Engine-Repair-Gaskets/303281042753?epid=14025494408&hash=item469cf57541:g:FJ0AAOSwEO9deFfe

200137 is correct for that gas tank. Look at me, I feel like David knowing a part # for once. LoL. (I plucked one from the parts pile because I know exactly what it looks like and the number's right on it) Doubt there's enough demand to have Eric make a run on these but making them by hand is certainly worth the effort and time. He can CAD it up himself but the initial time involved is where the major expense is, plus the waste on material from the actual shape makes it a tough investment. Surprisingly, these are fairly thick material but having a plethora of different gasket material around isn't a bad thing when it comes to fixing any old machines. I've used everything from paper bags and cereal boxes to rubber roofing material over the years for making different gaskets. Any good auto parts store will have rolls of different materials and thicknesses and they're fairly inexpensive. These tank gaskets aren't a " tolerance heavy " item like an engine part gasket so anything that seals it will work, just as long as it will stand up to gasoline over time. Having Eric CAD up some exhaust gaskets might be worth the expense. After the case seals, it's the second most often place you'll find leaks. Especially if the engine has been taken apart. Heating the old ones with a torch right before reassembly helps with making them pliable again and sealing better so many can be re-used. Some do better than others in my experience but once they're damaged it's a problem. I've been toying with the idea of having Eric do a complete engine rebuild gasket set but haven't pulled the trigger on it.

Yeah, me too. Had mine for quite a few years and still don't really know what's all in there. Not that it's a huge amount but it's a lot of small parts. I know there was some good stuff in there among the more useless things but all of it is good to have since you collect and repair.

Pretty sure there's some tank gaskets in that parts stash I sent to you. Seemed like there was quite a bit of chainsaw parts in there. I have 2 NOS tank gaskets but would like to keep them. BUT, I can send you one to copy and just send it back. I use those paper hole punches for the little round screw holes. They make perfect holes in most materials and a sharp x-acto knife and or scissors to cut the big stuff. You can find a set of punches with different sizes fairly cheap. They work better than the hammer type of punches.

Real nice shape. Good find

Take it apart and clean the parts individually. Not sure what parts cleaner can do to those bearing cages. The engine rebuild thread and the diagram for the engine will help guide you but ask any questions if you need help.

Don't remember but it's blue. Blue pump red engine

I have one of those type also. As usual they were branded under many different names

David made a head tool a while back so maybe he can post some pics. You can weld a couple of beads or tabs on the side of a spark plug socket. A strap wrench around the head will work but be careful not to crush the cooling fins. Cutting and grinding a piece of 1/4" flat bar will also work. I missed the post office Saturday so I'll put the engine and parts in a priority mail box with a prepaid label and leave it for the mailman. I have a hard time getting there while it's open.

David may have something for specs but I turn them down tight and then line up the little tabs on the top of the head so two are parallel with the crank. This can be a pain sometimes as they can get pretty tight before the tabs line up but if the tabs don't line up, the blower housing will hit the tab and prevent it from seating all the way on. Making a tool to fit in the slots at the plug hole works well to keep from damaging the cooling fins of the head. The engine I'm sending will have a loose head since I didn't tighten it back down because you probably want to go through it. Think I can get to the post office today to ship it. It will come with NOS rings and some gaskets

That's the fuel side so it needs to not dissolve in gasoline

Is that something you have plans for or looking to sell? I'm interested in a basket case. Kind of my specialty it seems

Try soaking the seals and orings in carb cleaner for a few hours. It causes them to swell and softens them a bit too. I used to do that before I had a stash of nos parts to use and it seemed to work well to get everything sealed. I just don't know for how long it lasts. Using a tube of Lubriplate 105 engine assembly grease is probably a good idea too. Might as well go through everything, clean allthe pieces and especially the bearings and grease during assembly.

Nice. The exhaust manifold starts to discolor from the heat when they are run for long periods of time and that one is still nice and clean. Leave the little air vent on the gas cap open when storing it if the location you keep it has large temperature swings. Had one crack the tank when the cold at night created vacuum pressure inside of it and the tank buckled in a little, It was enough to crack the seam.

I do have a vertical tank if you need one but if rust on the inside of yours is the only problem, try the cider vinegar soak and let me know if you still need it. Saving as many as possible will only help all of us collectors in the future. We can swap tanks and I'll try to clean it too.

If it doesn't have a hole rusted through, soak cider vinegar in it. you can fill it with small nuts or bolts and shake it to loosen the big stuff off first.Just check it everyday. It cleans rust really well in these tanks. I once forgot about a tank soaking and when I saw it again about a month or 2 later, the acid in the vinegar had eaten away most of the tank. If the outside is rusted too just soak the whole thing. Rinse well when done.

Got all ambitious and dug through some old stuff and found this. Between the one you have and this you should have enough to get going again. Compression feels good but it probably has the old type plastic cage bearings, but when or if this one fails we'll fix you up again so there's nothing to loose. I'll remove the the generator section unless you need it. One thing for sure, the parts will fit. PM me your address Charlie and I'll send it to you. No charge because I have no idea of the full quality of the parts inside. BUT you have to post some pics and tell us how you made out. Type 111 SN 034701

Oooo, the term "very interested" means expensive for you. Wooo Hooo. You being the only resource back in the day is what got all of this started. Highly doubt I would've ever went past those first 2 engines if we never connected. I didn't know squat back then so your help and knowledge with the stuff was crucial in my collecting of O&R. Glad we started this because there really isn't any other place for people to go that I know of. Then people like David get involved and the knowledge base has grown to new heights because of his involvement and willingness share information. In a couple of years CNew will be coaching and suppling parts too at the pace he's going.

I'll find you the right parts to fix it. I might have the whole kit and kabootle. Have the holiday day off tomorrow.

I'll find you some gaskets if you let me know what you need. The majority of gaskets can be reused if they weren't ruined when taking it apart

Do you need a vertical tank for a toolor just to have one in case you do?

I've got what you want. A used piston with wrist pin, slotted rod, and bearings plus new #A-20-5-13-7 con-rod bearing set, includes #7-22 washers (must be used with slotted con-rod) Think I can find a set of rings and a used head with a 10mm plug hole. you'll probably need some gaskets like the thin induction paper gasket

I'm guessing they end up in Utopia along with the missing socks from the dryer. Lots of free stuff goes there! Lol

Only problem with that is, now you have some hack taking it apart with a butter knife and a big crescent wrench. Good luck on getting any of the hardware with it! Or maybe they'll store it down in the carb Asking politely for extra attention in packaging usually helps. I typically offer extra $ for it but hardly ever will they charge you. At least that's my experience but haven't been having stuff shipped in like I used to.

Tell me about it. That sucks and it's even worse when it's the tool parts damaged which are much more difficult to replace or fix. That's exactly why items I pack in a box are packed well and protected. Can't count how many shipping damaged items I received because of bad lazy packaging.