Wallfish

Just figured this item number may help if anyone wants to replace the starter rope(s) on their engines. Especially the ones where the engine and or tool has been refurbished or rebuilt. It closely matches the original braided rope. It's fairly inexpensive and 100 ft goes a long way. Here's on spot to buy but possibly cheaper if you search around https://www.stenspartswarehouse.com/Stens-145-600-p/145-600.htm

No, it uses a gearbox.

OR, easily changed to another engine.

Because they don't work that great and the lack of power. Not to mention the carbs suck (except for gas and air) so I'm sure many people just gave up. Certainly good for us collectors many years later! I have a Homelite XL100 saw that will power through a 4x4 easily with an aggressive blade at full depth. Fun to use but it's heavy.

Are we talking about the screw on the older carb which is in place of the newer adjustment needle valve to hold the halves together? If so, I can take a look around but it's probably easier to make a shorter one or paint one black. https://www.mcmaster.com/fillister-head-machine-screws You can probably find some more by searching the net. https://www.grainger.com/category/fasteners/screws/machine-screws?attrs=Dia.%2FThread+Size|%2310-32&filters=attrs Pan head style. https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-32-Phillips-Pan-Head-Machine-Screws-Steel-w-Black-Oxide-SAE-Fine-Inch/122761523310?var=423185940513&hash=item1c9528306e:m:mfOVDzT8wTz20qM0IBtB89Q:sc:USPSFirstClass!01524!US!-1

Nice job repairing that coil! Might as well have tried to fix it. It was already broke so nothing to loose if it didn't work. Show off! Actually, not sure I would've collected so many if it wasn't for Joe. I found a couple tools and had no idea of what they really were or there were so many different types of tools made. Then I found Joe and he had plenty of advise and some spare parts to boot. So @Webhead is responsible for the madness. Do you have one of those old school saws David?

Show off! I've never seen that early type David posted before. Even the coil cover is old school.

35 years, and I thought I was a procrastinator. I'm lightning fast now compared to you. LoL The blower housing is an early version as David noticed but the coil isn't. I have a couple of the earlier saws with the can style tank like yours. Think the other tank style is branded under a different name

Many Compact engines were sold just as utility engines only and didn't necessarily have an intended purpose or tool to attach to them. That was up to the person who bought them. Model B came with that type of tank and the crank extension. Not sure exactly what's up with that particular tank venting set up.

Maybe those old seals started at .031, and now after many years in the engine, they end up measuring .036 ? Gas, oil, heat, friction, time and you're measuring a worn seal. What does the shaft measure where the seal rides? Or maybe that's what you measured, IDK Seems to me a tight fit of .005 under for the ID is better than a loose fit of .004 over

Think there might be some 20A parts in the stuff I'm sending you. maybe some gaskets but I didn't go through it very thorough. I do have a couple of NOS reed valves for those in my parts stash. Is the compression release closing?

I did a write up on doing one, it's on here somewhere. Isn't that a band which goes around the center of the generator separt?

Send me a private message with your name and address. I have some diaphragms available. .

That Lubriplate 105 liquefies pretty fast with just a little heat so I'm sure the friction of the gears takes care of that. Then most of it solidifies again but there's still an oily liquid part. Unless you plan on using them for doing actual work, I wouldn't worry about it at all. If it's just going to sit on a bench for display, probably best not to have the oil leak out

The most interesting thing is " My brother was watching some old episodes of the "The Price is Right" from 1973 on YouTube "

Mono saw

No, my mistake. I meant from that link you posted. I'll go out side and see if I can find my saw for some pics

Didn't see anything referring to model 25 on there. Mine is all apart still sitting in the box but I'll pull it out and get some pics. The paint was horrible on these and think mine probably looks worse than that ebay pic for the rocket line.

Looks like the same yellow as I recall but with a MONO brand round circle decal about the same size as that one. Has the same electrical conduit set up for extending to the air filter. The saw Jim bought was missing the bar cover and of coarse the decal, but he made a real nice replica using the one on mine as a pattern for both the cover and the decal.

Also badged under Mono. I have one and sold one to @usedtoolman

Get a can of this for soaking stuff. works much better for clean soaking the carbs plus you just use it over and over again. Dirty gas is a pain to get rid of. https://www.powersportsid.com/gunk/carburetor-and-parts-cleaner-with-drip-basket-mpn-cc3k.html?view=327493&utm_source=microsoft&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=268680876&utm_content=1176478073060724 Unfortunately the carb cleaners now-a-days are pussified because of the EPA standards and they don't work near as well as the old dangerous stuff did. Looks like you found a Chicken Power

My go to cleaner for most of this stuff is gasoline and carb cleaner. Soaking parts overnight makes it easier and then spray it off with the carb cleaner. The paint can type carb cleaner works great for soaking parts and the carbs. Carb cleaner will quickly wipe out any decals. It'll remove paint too so use care and judgement. Also in the arsenal for cleaning are Q-tips, old tooth brushes, toothpicks, and compressed air plus anything else I can find

If an alternative replacement U-cup seal in this particular weird size range for O&R continues to be non-existent Post the size of the seal for easier searching. That X style appears like it would be better than a simple O ring but... It's my thought the U cup style was used because the case pressure will tighten the seal from that case pressure pushing inside the U of the cup

Check out the engine rebuild thread, there's a pic of that seal. It's also a U cup

got pics?