Wallfish

Also badged under Mono. I have one and sold one to @usedtoolman

Get a can of this for soaking stuff. works much better for clean soaking the carbs plus you just use it over and over again. Dirty gas is a pain to get rid of. https://www.powersportsid.com/gunk/carburetor-and-parts-cleaner-with-drip-basket-mpn-cc3k.html?view=327493&utm_source=microsoft&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=268680876&utm_content=1176478073060724 Unfortunately the carb cleaners now-a-days are pussified because of the EPA standards and they don't work near as well as the old dangerous stuff did. Looks like you found a Chicken Power

My go to cleaner for most of this stuff is gasoline and carb cleaner. Soaking parts overnight makes it easier and then spray it off with the carb cleaner. The paint can type carb cleaner works great for soaking parts and the carbs. Carb cleaner will quickly wipe out any decals. It'll remove paint too so use care and judgement. Also in the arsenal for cleaning are Q-tips, old tooth brushes, toothpicks, and compressed air plus anything else I can find

If an alternative replacement U-cup seal in this particular weird size range for O&R continues to be non-existent Post the size of the seal for easier searching. That X style appears like it would be better than a simple O ring but... It's my thought the U cup style was used because the case pressure will tighten the seal from that case pressure pushing inside the U of the cup

Check out the engine rebuild thread, there's a pic of that seal. It's also a U cup

got pics?

IMO they actually look better without the plastic cover. I attached a drillgine gas tank to one of mine and it gets a lot of attention at the shows. A vertical style normal O&R round tank with a bracket would look good too

Try searching around the net for U cup seals like this https://www.mcmaster.com/cup-seals

There was a guy on the old forum that had one of those cars he was restoring. Believe he was from France.

Think I have a couple of reed valves and some other misc parts. You got a spare engine coming in that parts pile I just picked up. What parts are you looking for

Sending a PM

That's a steel rod from the foot throttle control and the spring is the tension for it

David is correct. That generator is the most common O&R tool out there so there are quite a few available at any given time. Sentimental value does not effect cost so I suggest you keep it. Clean it up, get it running and use it for a conversation piece and memories of your grandfather. That's where the most value is in my opinion.

Ummm, I have moderator status now and you're tempting me to ban you from the forum!

I've been looking for one of those for a while. So far have only seen beat up boards with many missing parts. That one appears to be in very nice condition. Howard Stern fan?

What they should have done was totally re-design the entire carb but they just kept putting band-aids on them for the entire run. Primer button, check valves, remove screens, ect. The carb is the weak link of these engines

Did you ever have Eric cut those for you?

Nice find! The paint looks looks really good and no rust on the handle. That should clean up nicely.

Yes. I picked up some at an old school hardware store in the little "treasure drawers" that have all the old stuff. Most of the time cleaning them works but it's possible it could be sticking.

Check the check valve ball bearing. If I remember correctly there was service bulletin to change that ball every time a carb was in for service. It can stick closed. Also, always blow air through the fuel inlet after servicing a carb. If the valve is closing correctly you should not be able to blow any air through until you push the primer button. Sometimes the cap pushes down on the arm if the arm is "tweaked". and doesn't allow it to completely seal. I found it easier to use the paper gasket in that situation rather than messing around with the arm. Leaking crankcase seals cause loss of pressure and vacuum inside the case which is what pulses the diaphragm so sometimes a better carb works just to get it running. Try the old one on the engine which the known good carb came from as well. That may help you hunt down the issue.

I was referring to the drill. It looks like a Flash Gordon gun Why didn't you grab the drill in Jan. ? Do you already have one?

My grandson was there when I opened the box for mine. He got all excited when he saw it and asked "Can I shoot it too?" He thought it was a weird gun of some sort.

bet you were just a bit skeptical on how well it work before trying it, huh? I use WD-40 to clear off all of the water , let dry, coat with oil then wipe off the oil with a dry rag. The oil will stay in the pits and help protect it from further deterioration. steel wool will leave scratches as it's harder than the chrome. Most bikers will not use it on their chrome parts because of that and you can see the scratches when it's out in the sun.

Never really looked at it close. Last weekend was the first time it came out of the box. Didn't see it. Those are a rare rare item and I paid $350 ?? plus shipping for mine Just looked it up and it went for $149. Bet if it was listed under O&R it could've fetched $350 plus

Nice find. Try cleaning the chrome handle with crumpled up aluminum foil and water. Or coca-cola. It works really well and doesn't leave scratch marks.