Wallfish

Certainly one of the most interesting Garden Tractors ever made. I love the story of how they went around to car junkyards for all the rear ends and shortened them down. Dodge rear ends? Can't remember which brand

Not really, you ARE caught up. Think I have around 35 different tools, the rest are different versions and duplicates. Looks like I'm going to have to pull them all out and count.

Nice job! Did you solder that stuff or use something else?

Not that I know of. Go with the glow fuel conversion to reduce the weight. If there's enough air flow to cool it, maybe the flywheel can be removed but a smaller lighter pulley or something can be added to start it with a rope. OR, maybe have the flywheel machined to be lighter but still use the fins, starter pawls and recoil housing? Just kind of throwing stuff out there for some options.

Once converted to glow plug, there is no need for the coil, condenser, points. If used for an airplane, the flywheel can be removed to. I have another one too but never posted anything on it. Here are are a couple threads with glow plug engines. I use old toothbrushes, Q-tip swabs and a brass wire brush to clean them. And anything else I can find along with lots of paper shop towels

Yes, you can connect a shut off switch to ground the points. There is a little threaded stud on the back of the plate which is used to connect the condenser. Connect your wire to that. Some engines come with a switch or just a metal tab which grounds it out for shut down.

Always nice to have those constantly missing screws and spare parts. What do you suppose these 2 pieces are?

We Americans just want you guys to have slower machines than ours so we put those 3000 rpm stickers on all the international engines. Curious if that engine is original to a tractor or if was spec'd for a different type of machine? Pretty darn sure all of mine are spec'd for 3600 rpm. I'm with Richard on this. Not sure why you would want to load that engine at half rpm since those engines are designed to run at full rpm for cooling, lubrication and performance. Why not just run it at full rpm? For calculating pulley size, there are many online calculators to use, as stated above. Very handy for exactly what you're doing.

Wish mine looked like this. That is a pic of webhead's rebuilt trimmer. Most of my stuff stays original unless they're in real bad condition.

Along with the whole set

DAM, that's going to take me forever to find one those and I'm still having a hard time finding a compressor. Thanks for sharing this stuff guys, interesting

Nice job with that Paul. Looking forward to seeing the finished product. How does the compressor mount to the base? Or does it just hold on by the shaft? A compressor is still on my bucket list

Na, they're still catching up unless one of them has about 50. BUT, they sure do find some stuff and it's slim pick'n over there compared to here. ( SO, maybe on that curve these guys are closer than I think). One thing for sure, it's guys like this which keep the hobby of collecting these little items alive and well.

If Webhead doesn't have the parts you need, I may have some. I have some used crank shafts and parts from a damaged tiny tiger generator. Are you thinking you need the magnet part that spins inside the copper coils of the generator? O&R engines come in many colors and green military is an original factory color. Still always best to post pictures of what you have so we can better help. You can use a photo host like "photobucket" which is free and then copy and paste the img link and the photos will show on here. Or you can become a supporter for $10 and posting pics is easy as drag and drop them into your post.

Well that's another different item I've never seen before but the engine is familiar. Thanks for posting pics! As a newer model engine, the little arm in the carb may have a rubber check valve instead of the most common steel ball bearing (which sat in the little hole to serve the same purpose). I have yet been able to come up with a good fix to replace that little rubber stopper when they dry out and don't seal. I fix them buy replacing the entire diaphragm assembly with the older steel ball version. You'll need to clean that entire carb but don't get any carb cleaner on the little rubber stopper if that's indeed what's there. After cleaning re-assemble and test it by blowing air into the fuel inlet. Air should only pass when the primer button is pushed. Also a good idea to try and suck air too. This procedure works for both styles of check valve. If ANY air passes it must be fixed so the diaphragm can pump gas to the engine. Have you checked out this carb tutorial thread?

Some parts are available. Assume you will need a new diaphragm. Figure out what parts you need and send a Private Message to member webhead. He should be able to hook you up. I also have diaphragms. Please post some pictures of that machine. Not sure I've ever seen one of those but many O&R items are the same only branded under different names.

This was a thread on mine. Still never got around to painting it but it does look good without paint too.

Both are correct, I have the Chip-A-Saw version. Also have the other version of a Chip-A-Saw

Loved it! Thanks for sharing that.

I'm with C101. Pull it apart to check it out and fix it if easy enough. Nothing to loose if you are junking it anyway. Plus those small pistons and rods make a nice little key chain.

A wire must come from under the flywheel ( which is attached at the condenser connection ) to the points terminal. Only one wire needed to the points for spark. Disconnect the wire going to ground. A k91 has a button on the points cover to kill (ground) the engine but you can connect a second wire to the points to use as a kill. The kill switch must connect to ground which kills the spark.

Weight, weight, weight and then add some more weight to the rear. Filled tires and large heavy wheel weights will certainly help. The rear engine limits the options for weight box so you'll have to get creative if needed. To put in perspective, my loader tractor has a 500+ pound backhoe hanging off the back of it and still looses traction with a heavy load on the loader. That's a very interesting loader with the self level bucket setup. I really like that feature. It appears to be homemade to me by a very skilled builder but that's just a guess. Manufactured loader arms are usually tapered and not straight dimensional pieces. The bucket shape seems too simple of a design. Again, just guessing

Thanks for sharing. Never knew those different trimmers existed. My manual doesn't have any of those in it. Seems as though the Yard-Arm might be the "Holy Grail" of O&R collecting. So far only seen in printed manuals and brochures as far as I know.

Those tillers were branded under quite a few different names. Mine is a Derby. Never seen one of those power heads with a blower attachment What is that unit in the first pic?

This is also on my to do list. Did a bunch of web research on the subject and gathered most of the parts needed but just need to get started on it. The plan is to power a small tractor with a gasifier using wood pellets for the fuel.