Wallfish

Both are correct, I have the Chip-A-Saw version. Also have the other version of a Chip-A-Saw

Loved it! Thanks for sharing that.

I'm with C101. Pull it apart to check it out and fix it if easy enough. Nothing to loose if you are junking it anyway. Plus those small pistons and rods make a nice little key chain.

A wire must come from under the flywheel ( which is attached at the condenser connection ) to the points terminal. Only one wire needed to the points for spark. Disconnect the wire going to ground. A k91 has a button on the points cover to kill (ground) the engine but you can connect a second wire to the points to use as a kill. The kill switch must connect to ground which kills the spark.

Weight, weight, weight and then add some more weight to the rear. Filled tires and large heavy wheel weights will certainly help. The rear engine limits the options for weight box so you'll have to get creative if needed. To put in perspective, my loader tractor has a 500+ pound backhoe hanging off the back of it and still looses traction with a heavy load on the loader. That's a very interesting loader with the self level bucket setup. I really like that feature. It appears to be homemade to me by a very skilled builder but that's just a guess. Manufactured loader arms are usually tapered and not straight dimensional pieces. The bucket shape seems too simple of a design. Again, just guessing

Thanks for sharing. Never knew those different trimmers existed. My manual doesn't have any of those in it. Seems as though the Yard-Arm might be the "Holy Grail" of O&R collecting. So far only seen in printed manuals and brochures as far as I know.

Those tillers were branded under quite a few different names. Mine is a Derby. Never seen one of those power heads with a blower attachment What is that unit in the first pic?

This is also on my to do list. Did a bunch of web research on the subject and gathered most of the parts needed but just need to get started on it. The plan is to power a small tractor with a gasifier using wood pellets for the fuel.

Ha, no wonder I couldn't hit anything. Certainly doesn't appear they were shooting anything too powerful or there would be evidence of it. Besides it wouldn't last too long as soon as one of the kids took aim at those wooden rollers. This has my wheels turning since my grandson shoots his little .177 BB gun out in back of the house. He's always looking to make different targets but recently started shooting the wildlife and possibly the neighbors cat ( for more of a challenge I believe). Thinking to build something like this, which might keep him out of trouble for a little while. A squirrel once in a while is one thing but he was taking out every bird species too. Caught him taking aim at a Pileated woodpecker which is a pretty big bird and not too many around.

Now that is an interesting project! Thanks for sharing it and I'm also looking forward to seeing it finished.

Found this instruction to be interesting. HIGHLY doubt many people are going to remove and replace the belt guard every hour to grease that idler pulley. This could possibly explain why so many belt guards are missing.

I was kind of thinking that too but if the gas tank and mount are original, it's meant to operate horizontally. 2 & 3 pic look like the same idea with a vertical operating tank but the handle is 90 degrees off.

Well I'd definitely be interested in coming down and taking a look to make an offer. But if you need to unload EVERYTHING including all the tools as a Lot, I probably can't do that. Very possible on all the parts but will need a closer look to estimate a value. One item in particular that I'm interested in is that complete gasket set. I've been unable to locate the one I thought I had which I want to send to a guy who can laser cut repops of them. If all else fails, would you consider selling or loaning that one bag so I can get a complete set of gaskets reproduced? It's possible I might have them all already but in separate parts bags in my parts stash. Nothing is separated or cataloged.

neons Please let us know when you find them! I'm interested in your parts, possibly the tools too but I do have most of those items in my collection. Just looked up your zip code and your not too far from me

Too bad that muffler is blown out. Those go for some big money. By the way, that tractor is a 1960 model 400

A knot will certainly keep it from pulling through but I never liked the big lump it creates in the rope winding. Kind of like it creates a cam and you can feel it when pulling the rope out. That's why I prefer to melt a smaller knob into the end of the rope. Without a doubt either way is fine, just a matter of preference.

Very Nice!!!!! Thanks for the update.

For some reason I clicked on this link which appeared in the cluster of videos after the one you linked ended. I was LMFAO so just thought I'd share it even though it has absolutely nothing to do with the content of this thread. Sorry for getting of topic!

HA, I'm an idiot! Just looked real quick at the pic before posting. Guess it's one of those mind bending illusions used to trick the simple minded, like me! Those bastards got me!

I'm not so convinced it doesn't give off ANY carbon monoxide fumes AT ALL. Especially since his detector went off at the end of the video. No way the "heat" as he explained, would reach the ceiling unless he ran thing for a loooooooong time and even then, that's a stretch. Very interesting concept so thanks for sharing. I'm going to check out some of the other videos and info concerning this. One question though, Could some or most of the gain in running time be contributed to a very lean running engine? That might explain the "heat" theory as a lean running air cooled engine will run hot under a lean condition.

Nice!!!! Are those the decals sold on epay here in the U.S.? Curious of the quality. It certainly looks good

Yes, it's just a piece of wire shaped in a "U" that matches those 2 little holes in the spool. I should have some of those if you want one. Best to melt the end of the rope to form a "knob" which will keep the rope from pulling through the tightened wire. At least that's how I solved the problem since it happened to me as well. Might also be a good idea to use a longer rope so it doesn't end at the attachment point when pulling it. It can be a fine line between over stuffing the spool and having it too short. Done it both ways way too many times and I hate working on those recoils as it is, so having to do them over again really sucks when that rope pulls out. -- I've just used any piece of wire for the rope before getting spare parts. Also cut a thick sewing needle to make that little carb rod too.

The tank on that outboard is just an added Drillgine tank. Not original to the outboard but it does look good on there. (Ha, fooled you all.) Webhead's tank is just a little bit different than a drillgine tank concerning the fuel outlet but maybe it's an early one. And something I just noticed from David's pic. The 6300 rpm option turns the chuck in the opposite direction.

I'll check this weekend for a little carb rod

Lots of work to clean that one up but looking forward to see how it comes out.