Wallfish

NICE! Thanks for sharing

Looks good now. Thanks for sharing

Those old valves made of membrane seem to always go bad. Once the little valve part curls up, they're just about worthless.

Something happened while replying and I think there were some updates being made to the site at the same time so my reply was delayed doubled. David obviously hooked you up with pics and good info.

Welcome to MoM That is an older style carb body with the adjustment needle on the side of the body. (Correct for that style) There should be a screw in that top hole to hold the diaphragm assembly to the body and not a needle valve assembly. You will need a new diaphragm. Also make sure there is a thin plastic check valve (which gets sandwiched between the 2 halves of the carb). You will see it in pics under the carb tutorial thread. We had these laser cut along with the diaphragms so they are now available again and are perfect matches to the originals. The two holes I think you're referring to are used for a throttle cable which are not used for the Tiny Tiger application. They're used for applications like the Chicken Power and some Drills ect. You'll need to install a new rope and handle for the recoil. The side you have pictured is the spring side. After attaching and coiling the rope on the spool, that slot goes over the spring but it can be tricky sometimes to get them to lock. Looks like you may need to bend the spring a little into a hook. I'll see what I can find for pics to help you out. Member @Webhead, Joe should have all the parts you need. Send him a PM. He probably has the rope, handle, little rope attaching wire, check valve, diaphragm and the carb screw. If he doesn't have something, let me know and I'll check my small parts stash. ( no need to check with us both to compare prices, mine will be higher as my parts stash is small and used to repair my personal engines) I'm not trying to discourage you from asking for what you need but people have done this in the past, only to think I'm trying to gouge them for profit which is NOT the case. I just prefer to keep my parts and selling them for $10 is just not worth it to me since I paid a premium amount for them. That being said, I still try to be as fair as I can if someone needs something and I have it.

Try sending a PM to member @Webhead on here. He is the same guy selling that piece on ebay so he may be able to do a better deal without the fees they charge the seller. Check down inside the hole for the broken seat. Common for people to over tighten it and they break off easy. Might as well check the diaphragm too. If it's hard you will need a new one and Webhead can hook you up with one of those too.

That side of the tank does come off but like you said, easier said than done. You need to heat it to burn the epoxy but that may ruin your decal. @usedtoolman has reproduced that decal so you can send him a message before you start to make sure he can provide you a new decal. Or like mad man stated, use a good tank sealer kit. Just make sure you remove the fuel pickup inside before sealing. I have never separated those pieces before but maybe usedtoolman can also give you some more advice too.

Nice score. Too bad it must have sat out side or in a damp area for a while. Apparently a previous owner decided he didn't want all that poison spraying on himself when blowing it upwind. First one I've seen with the newer style recoil and housing. Curious about that expanded metal for a debris screen in the recoil too. Don't remember ever seeing that before either.

Here's a Ward's Digger 10 which has the same design as a General model 10 ice auger. Both seem to be pretty rare items. Never thought O&R had enough power for an earth auger but here it is. These doubled as a drill with an added threaded on drill chuck.

There's one for sale up by me. But isn't $700 a bit over priced? it can always ship to OK fairly inexpensive using Fastenal.

Check out post #21 in this thread for a simple way to test for engine seal and gasket leaks http://myoldmachine.com/topic/1559-or-engine-rebuild-pics/

Looks great!

The better designed engine will be the P7, the Japanese ripped off the basic design but made improvements which made their version much more reliable. Those guys always seem to engineer a good engine. To be quite honest, the O&Rs are good for collecting, not so reliable for constant use.

Nice! Bet we can probably help if you want to power it with an O&R.

Best to post any site issues or questions here http://myoldmachine.com/forum/9-site-suggestions-updates-issues/ So Karl @nylyon will see it. He handles all the fun stuff for the forum but he isn't on here that much. Anything posted in that section will get to him much quicker.

A VERY nice find as those are much more rare! So far only the second one I've ever seen on the net.

Glad to see you active on the forum again Joe

That thing is beautiful now, Very nice job! Since you did such a nice job and clearly want a nice machine, I'd be willing to trade tanks so you have a good one if you pay for shipping both tanks. Not sure if that is worth it or not depending on shipping cost but you can research that and let me know. Shipping would be to and from Leicester MA 01524 USA. If ANY of you guys ever find something over here that a seller will not ship, Just let me know and I will ship it for them. They can ship it to me and I'll send it to you for whatever the actual postage is. Doesn't need to be just O&R stuff either. Some of you guys have helped me with this so I'm more than willing to return the favor!

So Jim (usedtoolman) and I got together Saturday at a local antique engine show (Straw Hollow) and displayed part of our O&R collections together. I think Jim had around 20 tools and I had about 25. Both of us have more than this but it's just way too much hassle to bring everything. Who knows, maybe one day we can do a bigger one with everything we have. Jim's much nicer display! He has some really nice stuff. And my crappy display. No pics of my ugly mug! And kind of a shot of both And here is some other stuff that was at the show

Nice score! Saw that pump on Ebay and thought about it because it's different, but never did bid. Glad to see it went to someone who will post about it here.

Looks good now!

Think I just replied to an ad you have on the local Craigslist. 99% of the time, the carb diaphragm will be dry and hard so it will need to be replaced along with a good and thorough carb cleaning. There is a great tutorial posted in the forum for doing it. Points need to be cleaned most of the time too if it doesn't have spark.

I'm with Factory on this one. It seems like it has had very little use because of the very clean rope. Those pull ropes get dirty VERY quick so a clean one usually equals NOS or close to it. BUT--- it's always possible it was changed too. I would go with new fuel lines, carb diaphragm and a good carb clean before pulling that one completely apart. Plus the very thin paper case seals are few and far between. OH, and clean the points too.

I agree. The ground (-) is always the ground and the white plug links the + of which ever voltage it's plugged into to the brass + output terminal. Just a guess too but a meter will certainly confirm it.

Try aluminum foil to clean that chrome. Plenty of instructions about it on Youtube and it works great.