Wallfish

The glow fuel converted engine I have has the same carb on it, just positioned different and one of the plastic control arms is cut off. Never removed it to see how it's held in place. Exhaust manifold also had a port added to pressurize a fuel tank

Did the seller re-list it? Most all of these engines can be cleaned and made to run. It's just a matter of how much time and money you want to put into them. Some are just easier to replace rather than put the effort into them. That engine doesn't appear to be abused so it shouldn't be too bad to get going again but you never really know until it's thoroughly inspected.

By the appearance of the rope in the recoil, doesn't look like it has much run time. The ropes always get dirty and oily which turn them dark grey when they get used. Do not try and start it before removing the old air filter foam, it will get sucked into the engine. I use small bristle brushes or tooth brushes dipped in gasoline to clean them and a bunch of disposable shop towels or just paper towels. Blow it off with an air compressor first but not into that air filter! Then dry brush it to get all the loose stuff off, then the gasoline. Stinky job but it works. Once you get the carb apart the primer button will loosen up.

It's always possible someone scavenged parts from it but the only way to run it without a flywheel and coil is a glow plug. That and the adapter on the crank is why I'm guessing it was used for an RC airplane. The carb is aftermarket but I don't know who made them, Octura maybe? @Webhead may have more info on those. They make a 12v starting motor for starting RC airplanes. It has a rubber cup and you push it into the spinner on the center of the prop to turn over the engine. There appears to be debris inside the chamber so you should clean it out before starting it.Pull the head off. You mentioned you're not sure if it turns over but you should be able to spin that crank fairly easy by hand with the plug hole open.

Appears to me it was set up for use on an RC airplane using glow fuel. What's in the spark plug hole?

Ooooo, Someone got fancy building that exhaust! Hard to say if it was manufactured or not. Maybe made by Octura but never in quantity? Certainly took some machining to make it.

They make it look easy. ONLY $350! $350 in 1970 equals $2,195.86 in 2016.

Well I know J-B weld won't hold up to gasoline very long no matter what the manufacturer says. Personal experience. Loctite states this stuff is "resistant" to fuel but I think J-B states that too. Hope it does, it will be useful. The stuff usedtoolman suggested does hold up to gasoline but can't use it for attaching things. It's called Lab Metal

Certainly one of the most interesting Garden Tractors ever made. I love the story of how they went around to car junkyards for all the rear ends and shortened them down. Dodge rear ends? Can't remember which brand

Not really, you ARE caught up. Think I have around 35 different tools, the rest are different versions and duplicates. Looks like I'm going to have to pull them all out and count.

Nice job! Did you solder that stuff or use something else?

Not that I know of. Go with the glow fuel conversion to reduce the weight. If there's enough air flow to cool it, maybe the flywheel can be removed but a smaller lighter pulley or something can be added to start it with a rope. OR, maybe have the flywheel machined to be lighter but still use the fins, starter pawls and recoil housing? Just kind of throwing stuff out there for some options.

Once converted to glow plug, there is no need for the coil, condenser, points. If used for an airplane, the flywheel can be removed to. I have another one too but never posted anything on it. Here are are a couple threads with glow plug engines. I use old toothbrushes, Q-tip swabs and a brass wire brush to clean them. And anything else I can find along with lots of paper shop towels

Yes, you can connect a shut off switch to ground the points. There is a little threaded stud on the back of the plate which is used to connect the condenser. Connect your wire to that. Some engines come with a switch or just a metal tab which grounds it out for shut down.

Always nice to have those constantly missing screws and spare parts. What do you suppose these 2 pieces are?

We Americans just want you guys to have slower machines than ours so we put those 3000 rpm stickers on all the international engines. Curious if that engine is original to a tractor or if was spec'd for a different type of machine? Pretty darn sure all of mine are spec'd for 3600 rpm. I'm with Richard on this. Not sure why you would want to load that engine at half rpm since those engines are designed to run at full rpm for cooling, lubrication and performance. Why not just run it at full rpm? For calculating pulley size, there are many online calculators to use, as stated above. Very handy for exactly what you're doing.

Wish mine looked like this. That is a pic of webhead's rebuilt trimmer. Most of my stuff stays original unless they're in real bad condition.

Along with the whole set

DAM, that's going to take me forever to find one those and I'm still having a hard time finding a compressor. Thanks for sharing this stuff guys, interesting

Nice job with that Paul. Looking forward to seeing the finished product. How does the compressor mount to the base? Or does it just hold on by the shaft? A compressor is still on my bucket list

Na, they're still catching up unless one of them has about 50. BUT, they sure do find some stuff and it's slim pick'n over there compared to here. ( SO, maybe on that curve these guys are closer than I think). One thing for sure, it's guys like this which keep the hobby of collecting these little items alive and well.

If Webhead doesn't have the parts you need, I may have some. I have some used crank shafts and parts from a damaged tiny tiger generator. Are you thinking you need the magnet part that spins inside the copper coils of the generator? O&R engines come in many colors and green military is an original factory color. Still always best to post pictures of what you have so we can better help. You can use a photo host like "photobucket" which is free and then copy and paste the img link and the photos will show on here. Or you can become a supporter for $10 and posting pics is easy as drag and drop them into your post.

Well that's another different item I've never seen before but the engine is familiar. Thanks for posting pics! As a newer model engine, the little arm in the carb may have a rubber check valve instead of the most common steel ball bearing (which sat in the little hole to serve the same purpose). I have yet been able to come up with a good fix to replace that little rubber stopper when they dry out and don't seal. I fix them buy replacing the entire diaphragm assembly with the older steel ball version. You'll need to clean that entire carb but don't get any carb cleaner on the little rubber stopper if that's indeed what's there. After cleaning re-assemble and test it by blowing air into the fuel inlet. Air should only pass when the primer button is pushed. Also a good idea to try and suck air too. This procedure works for both styles of check valve. If ANY air passes it must be fixed so the diaphragm can pump gas to the engine. Have you checked out this carb tutorial thread?

Some parts are available. Assume you will need a new diaphragm. Figure out what parts you need and send a Private Message to member webhead. He should be able to hook you up. I also have diaphragms. Please post some pictures of that machine. Not sure I've ever seen one of those but many O&R items are the same only branded under different names.