Not sure about your side of the pond but over here those generators were produced in 3 different colors. red, yellow and military green. So if you swap the cover, tank and paint the base, you are still very close to keeping it factory.
Now your making me jealous, a VERY unique and rare tool. I have something very similar but it's a little more modern looking. Your Amp Champ generator would be very rare over here as well since ours put out 110v ac and 12v dc, plus the outlets are on the sides. Yours are on the back and output 220v I believe.
Let me know if you need parts for the recoil starter but most of the time, it's the spring end broke off. DON'T remove that rivet #12 holding the little cup bearing #10. There is no need to separate that cup from the housing to get the spool off. Just be very careful not to bend the spool #3. Pull from the center and don't pry on the outer edges. If the spring is broken, just heat the end with torch and you can bend it to the shape in the drawing #7 without it breaking. (They made a mistake in these drawings and show the spring coiled in the wrong direction)
The cylinder barrel unscrews from the case but if the piston is frozen in there, it will break the connecting rod. Wait until it soaks for a bit so you can free it up before untwisting the cylinder. A strap wrench works well for gripping the cylinder. Be careful as you can, to not break the cooling fins. It's a good idea to turn the exhaust manifold at the same time. The manifold pinches between the cylinder and the case and is capable of spinning 360 deg. Turning it at the same time will help get it loose.
It's a shame the plug was left out. The cylinder wall may be damaged but we can hook you up with a new one if needed.
It's very difficult to say exactly what the application was. Many were sold exactly like you have it and without a specific application but people could adapt them to their own. Plus there were MANY applications which are very rare and unknown to me. It was definitely not a generator.
I can tell you that engine is from the early 60s,( black pull handle, silver primer button, blower housing screws thread into the plate vs from the back into the housing, ect. ect. )
Since it's locked up, You'll need to disassemble it to find where it's stuck. I would start by removing the gear case, it doesn't take much resistance in there to freeze it up so that way you will know if it's the engine or the gears which is locked.
Look inside the plug hole and hopefully it isn't all rusted. If not, pour some oil in there, let it sit for an hour and then try to rotate the flywheel back and forth. Unfortunately if the engine is locked, you'll need to completely take it apart. BE CAREFUL not to loose any of the little roller bearings as they fall out during the process. There are quite a bit of them so I usually work my engines on a large white cloth. Parts are still available through me and another member at http://ohlssonandrice.forumer.com/
You may want to post over there as well, member Webhead has even more experience than I do and is the guy for most parts. We can walk you through the process of getting that thing running again.
TAS was a Japanese "knock-off" of the Ohlsson and Rice engines and tools. You can certainly see the similarities between them. One thing for sure, the Japanese built a better quality engine!
Early production red Drillgine, no speed control so it's drilling as soon as you start it. Watch out for loose clothing or it's going to hurt!
Haven't seen that exact style of trimmer before. The handles are a bit more crude than the newer style so that's also an early model. Also appears the top handle can be moved to mount horizontal behind the gearbox which is something I've never seen.
The link to my O&R forum posted earlier is now invalid so here's the new one in the event someone is searching for information on them.
They're rated at 3/4 to 1 HP. All the engines, except for the VERY early models, have the same bore. Other small changes gained the HP from 3/4 to 1. They are decaled at 3/4, .85 and 1 HP.
The trigger on this drill does not control the speed. Engine runs at a governed 6300 rpm all the time and the trigger is the on/off switch.
If the rust isn't too bad, try filling with Apple Cider Vinegar. It's cheap and eco friendly.(Regular vinegar works but it's slower). I also shake some sharp screws in them to loosen the big stuff. After soaking for 2 days, check it, if it needs more just reuse the vinegar again. After it's clean, rinse with baking soda and water to neutralize the acid and blow it dry with a compressor.
ORline Mark II chainsaw 1
in Ohlsson and Rice
Posted
These use the larger 20A engine. Also branded in blue as Ford saws