Anglo Traction

Look's like you did well with the price Charlie. The Engine is original. It's a V80 150018 (number is under the silver paint below the label in your pic). Tractor is a 1973 model and there is no panel missing as the gear lever is a Wand type and the Fwd/Rev Speed numbers are around the edge of the aperture. Illustrated Parts List is available, just type your model number into the search box in this link- https://lookup3.toro.com/partdex/index.cfm?xCaller=Toro〈=us_en So that's your winter fully booked for refurbishment work

It's a MK1 Capstan Nigel. There is a wealth of info for you in this link- http://www.lathes.co.uk/raglan/page4.html . Very versatile machine .

Nice strong 'Harrison' James...... Is it an L5 or an L5A?...can't quite make out what the Swing size is from the pics

Yeah Hppy Brthd'y Norm. Sorry about the lack of Birthday Smileys. Enjoy your day.

Don't worry Ian, it's only the Camera Flash that tends to make it look all shiny. No secrets, just take a bit of time cleaning before working with progressively finer grades of 'Wet Or Dry' and some 'T' Cut (old original type) to finish. It's nowhere near as shiny as the Genset Engine though!. Well that month shot by (Sept). Made the most of the dry weather to prep n paint after seeing what I have to replace. The Spacer Tubes were an issue, the front ones were ok, but I was not happy with the corrosion level on the ones from the rear of the Mower (2nd row from top in the pic). As I had a 1954 20inch Donor Atco Mower, I made up 2 new Spacer Tubes seen 3rd from top in Pic ready cut and prepped for welding together. I have to scrap the rear 5/8" diameter Roller Bar as you can see in the pic (4th from top), it's too far gone. So my dilemma of replacing it was solved by having to use the Donor Mower's (20inch) 5/8" diameter Bar (2nd up from bottom in pic) and making an extension for it to screw on and weld it up. Reason is 5/8" (15.9mm) won't pass through my Lathe Headstock Spindle (19/32" or 15mm limit), so I can't make a new one. I'll also use the Donor Mower Rollers for the time being as they are exactly the right size. Top Panel, Side Plates and Blade Carrier were Sandblasted and Etch Primer baked on. Rest of the parts were left to simmer in the E-Bucket before prepping and painting. I went with Old JCB Yellow in the end, which may be a tad darker, but happy with the Paint quality. Several sizes of BSF Nuts n Bolts also needed replacing-. About halfway through this now, so the end is in sight and over the worst of the expensive bits.

Yep! Castrol EXP 80-90 API Spec GL-5 for mine.

Nice job Norm, and I spotted the juxtaposed numbers

Despite being only 9 miles from Brighton when I was growing up, there was no local distinction (us n them) between Mods n Rockers.. maybe I confused people because over a few years I had a 1965 Vespa SS180, 1958 Lambretta LDA150 Shaft Driven, 1960 Royal Enfield 350, 1966 Lambretta SX200 bored to 225 and a '65' 250 Greaves Challenger. The latter was consigned to 'Offroad Trials' after I got my first Car/Van .......maybe I had an identity crisis back then

That's a Good'un Norm, nice find. No stopping you now. Very nice gear there Iain .Craned in over the roof eh!......not planning on moving anytime soon then? .

Well Norm, you get another Lathe and your already pulling bits of machinery apart to find parts to 'Spin Up' on it . There is no cure for this obsession, so you just have to go along with it..... Good project and I'll be following it .

Bit of a delay with some closing posts on this little project, mainly because I have not had time to get down to finish it. Back in early July, I obtained a full Muffler Kit to replace the old one, mainly due to the sheared Bolt, but I would've had to pay nearly the same for 2 bolts as the whole Kit !!. The broken stud came out real easy and I fitted it all up ready to go- . Rear Wheels looked real tatty, so I pulled them to get Sandblasted, primed and repainted. Front Wheels only had bearings cleaned out and re-greased. Also wanted to clean off and protect the underside while it was bone dry, so I liberally coated it with old Oil and let the surplus drain off for a while (all of August). All the metal is solid and still some original paint under there- Put the Oil in and fuelled up, took about 3 pulls then burst into life after who knows how long . A little Carb tweaking after warm up and then took it for a spin to check the governor response in tall grass,,,, all good and engine is smooth and powerful. Did about 200 metres of field boundary path cutting and had to call it a day. Real happy with it and no more strenuous to use than the 1971 JD 624E Tiller I rescued from there a few years ago (I'll get some images of that).

Hi Norm, Thanks!. Ranger- I recall Alum being used for something by my Father. Didn't ask what he used it for, but it was the first compound to disappear from my Chemistry Set when I was a child . Well, with a wet Bank Holiday weekend forecast last week and the Postman having brought me various goodies, I was able to crack on with the engine. I had previously also found that all 3 (original)HT Coils I possessed were dead in the secondary windings, also that the Condenser on this engine was iffy, as the Points were quite blackened and pitted. Ordered a New Coil and took a good Condenser and Points from the other 'Donor Engine',(as well as the Cylinder/Head and Cast Iron Piston) . The Engine bits shown loosely assembled, the nice Donor Cast Iron Piston, Gasket Set and the new Upper cylinder parts - Engine finished, except for the Pull Start bits- Clutch Friction Plate 're Corked', Drive Shaft bits painted and re-assembled. Just out of shot is a new Cylinder Bearing fitted into it's housing - Yet another delivery the other day was the rebuilt Cylinder (Reel) and New Bottom Blade/Screws- Garfitts had done a superb job, right down to the thickness of the Knives. Freewheel Sprocket/ Pawl Plates and Drive Pinions shown fitted on each end are now all good. I'll reverse the Pinions so the unworn parts will do the work in future (not much wear anyway). Back to cleaning plate work and panels etc and decide on painting method.

Very nice. Would like to see pics of it from different angles if your able?. Would make a good subject for Scale Model.

Good job you have double width doors on the Shack Ian !, Is this one going to need a Drag Chute and Castors on the back?.

Glad you find the process beneficial. It won't prizes for a speedy process, but I'll be using it again on 2 Atco Bullet style tanks soon. Lambretta !. That takes me back to happy memories in the 60s .

Glad to see someone has achieved this conversion. I've been chewing the fat over modifying one of those to fit on a Garden Tractor for ages. I had doubts about the Cutter width in relation to the Track width, but look's ok. Nice job

So be it, and here it will stay. Well I've made some progress on a couple of iffy bits and incurred some more (predicted) expense. Wanted to get the old Cylinder Shaft bearing out of it's carrier housing that was shown in an earlier pic. Didn't want to damage or distort the housing, so having soaked it a few times with the cellulose thinner and Redex mix, I applied only progressive hand tightening pressure to shift the old bearing- Went off with usual satisfying BANG when it finally relented and then a few more and it was out- I'll clean the housing up in the Lathe and make a new Dust Excluding/Spacer Washer to fit the larger diameter. I'll also be making a different lubrication system on this using a 'Screw Down' Greaser later. Second challenge was to get most of the Carb issues and deep clean dealt with, mainly get the broken screw out and replace all the important bits- Postman had arrived with Carb O/haul Kit, new Top Plate screw and I had to replace the Oil Bath Filter Body, as the old one was covered in cracks and leaked. Got one of the last few NOS ones in the country and not cheap . The operation began with the usual trepidation wondering if my smallest 'Easy Out' stud extractor would do the job. Set it all up on the Vert Mill and commenced the surgery with a 1/16" diameter Ball Nosed Slot Drill- Followed up with 5/64" drill for 1/4" and then ran a 3/32" Ball Nosed Slot drill for 1/8". Bearing in mind that the core diameter of the screw I am/was trying to remove has a core diameter of about 1/8" (3.2mm), I had to be sure I didn't touch the threads in the Carb body !. In with the 'Easy Out' and out it came with ease (mopped brow)- I will change the 'Strangler' (choke) Lifting rod by making a Stainless Steel one as the old one is badly rusted and as all the old Bakelite type plastic button grip has disintegrated off the threaded brass fitting long ago, I'll mould a new one around it. Just the 2 Filter Body screws to make and all Carb bits are done. Turned my attention to the Drive Sprocket and Pawl Plates where they had suffered from damage when past attempts were made to undo them with Chisels etc (usually undoing the wrong way due Left Hand Threads or tightening them up). All the red lines in the pic show where the damage repair is required has been done, chains now run smooth and virtually no wear on the rest of the bits (no pic)- Engine will be next, then the Framework.

Sorry mate !, missed this question. Afraid not really. Don't like spending any more time on the roads than is absolutely necessary these days. My 290 mile round trip from Gatwick to Worcester took 9 hours last Thurs !, just glad the Ole Transit T200 is real comfortable to drive.

Look's like it is doing the job ok. What initial amperage are you using?. I found that doing a good shake up with a handful of Pea Shingle in between the treatment, helped to clean off a lot of the areas inside and allowed the electrolysis process to concentrate on the inaccessible areas like narrow joints. .......................................Just put the Maverick's 'Dance the night away' CD on and pretend your playing the Maracas along to it ! ...I did.

Agreed, good selection. Manual Shears back in the days for when labour was cheap and machines weren't !.

Glad to see you checked it out first, before trying to push fuel through it to start it up . Good of Ranger to offer the #52 Carb. Just be aware that you actually need a Walbro #60 or possibly #64 for a 16 K' Mag, the venturi being slightly larger. It'll probably work ok, but you will probably find it will 'Hunt' erratically on top RPM. Will be advisable to peg it at 3100rpm (fixed jet) with a clean/new Air Filter, it will also 'lean out' and run hotter than usual. Depending if both your original Walbro Carb and Ranger's are the older type with adjustable Main High speed fuel mixture needles or the later Eco Non adjustable Fixed Jet types. The early adjustable ones are worth repairing if there is no Body metal/ Venturi Corrosion, as there are quality parts fitted originally and wear rate is low. As for your original Carb, I've seen worse and cleaned up. If you can post the Numbers off the Carb and your Engine serial number, I'll do some checking for you. As you probably know, the white powder is Alloy corrosion where Galvanic corrosion has occurred, so there will be a lot of metal pitting there after cleaning. If not in a vital place like a sealing face, bore hole or thread, then it may ok. Vinegar, as Mark has mentioned, should be ok for a start, but neutralise it completely after treatment and then soak the whole Carb in a mixture of Cellulose/Acetone Thinner and Diesel (or old Redex etc) for as long as you can (remove all the plastic bits and Viton ring seals etc first). Full, Genuine Service repair Kits are available for about £17-18.00.

Did a search for those Bearings a while back and they appear to be only available in the U.S. and lots of dosh to get 'em over to here. Only nearest size I could find in UK was narrower and so presume weaker?. Thought the same as you about modifying to take larger diameter and double row when necessary.

I'm liking the Wallis and Steevens. Pretty early version with the straight backed Tender. Un-lagged Boiler as well . Thanks for the pics Nigel.

I see it's made by Albion, so it could be from a number of different machines. Gearbox/Clutch Unit is similar to the Motor Hoe unit by Colwood, Sure an expert will spot this and give you the proper answer.

Hope it stays dry for Cinders and Ball