Anglo Traction

Sorry Ewan and any other's b'days that I have missed. Congrats to the 'Key of the Door' Ewan, but I daresay you are more than capable of making one yourself with no sweat!.
Regards

Yep!, as Norm says. No idea what they go for in your 'neck of the woods', but you can get an idea of their sale-ability and rough values here in UK by having a peruse of this link-
  -BIKE-
Worth also checking the completed listings in that link. 

Carpet in and extra door furniture on (door bolts etc )so its nice and secure
 
First couple of machines in, not in their final storage places yet...
 

Nice shed but it depends  how you rate the security risk but it looks as though the door hardware is just screwed on.
Not easy to see but are those hinges and the bolt secure?  One coach bolt through each side of each hinge in place of a screw and similar for each side of the bolt  . Long enough to go right through with decent washers and nuts on the inside.
Ideally a bolt and padlock top and bottom.

Firstly,  don't throw the old carb away. I presume this is for a 16hp K341 or Magnum?. The Carb in your pic looks aftermarket. The original was either a Kohler with #30 in raised letters in the casting above the venturi aperture when looking through past the Choke plate. Or it is/was a Walbro. Both have different settings and the later ones from the 80s had fixed Main/High speed needle jets.
I have no experience with those Chinese Knockoffs, but have heard different opinions and experiences. Is that Carb specifically for a 16hp? or a generic one which states it fits all?.
 
If the Needles actually adjust the mixtures, then the top one is the high speed/main, the angled side needle is the Idle mixture. Top screw is the Idle Speed adjuster.
Need to know what your engine model, spec and serial number is to establish correct needle settings.
Will probably need to guess or take an average of the preliminary settings for a chinese one. 
 
As for the Head Gasket, the quoted genuine Kohler ones are preferable, as they still have the folded over edges that are exposed to combustion forces.
Aftermarket ones are likely to be just a pressed sandwich style, unless you can see what you are buying. I which case, they will work ok.
 
Flatness of the head/cylinder faces are essential. you can check the head flatness after a clean on a good sheet of thick plate glass (smooth and very flat) and feeler gauges.
You should not be able to get a 3 thousandth (0.003") of an inch feeler gauge between the 2 faces anywhere around it. If can-.......
obtain 2 new sheets of non-creased Wet or Dry P400/P600 (1 of each). Proceed to flat the head gasket face down on the P400 (dry) in circular movements until the high/low merge.
Finish on the P600 the same way. The small impressions left by the original gasket do not really need to be removed, just aim for a smooth clean area all around.
Head bolts are torqued to 28-30 lbs ft  and rechecked after an hours running. 
Once the head leaks are sorted, you can sort the carb. Good luck 
 
Edit -Bit slow, Reiver beat me to it.

Just when I increase my workshop space by 40% shifting a W'Horse n Deck, Roly leaves me these- 

 
The Maxees is a 14", possibly a Mk2. pretty common, but the serial stamps are clear for I.D-ing.   No idea of the make of other one and has a 7. 3/4" cut width. Poss 20-30s.
 
Not a machine, but this will jog a few memories from up to the 60s-
 
  I'll fix up and Oily Rag this one.
 
Edit- deleted surplus image

Thanks Ewan, Yes, Stumbled over that backrest on Auction (N.O.Stock). Had to drill 2 more holes to fit the older Bostrom version for correct height, but real comfy. 
Going-

 
Going-
 

 
Gone !.
 

 
 

Just when I increase my workshop space by 40% shifting a W'Horse n Deck, Roly leaves me these- 

 
The Maxees is a 14", possibly a Mk2. pretty common, but the serial stamps are clear for I.D-ing.   No idea of the make of other one and has a 7. 3/4" cut width. Poss 20-30s.
 
Not a machine, but this will jog a few memories from up to the 60s-
 
  I'll fix up and Oily Rag this one.
 
Edit- deleted surplus image

Thanks Ewan, Yes, Stumbled over that backrest on Auction (N.O.Stock). Had to drill 2 more holes to fit the older Bostrom version for correct height, but real comfy. 
Going-

 
Going-
 

 
Gone !.
 

 
 

Just when I increase my workshop space by 40% shifting a W'Horse n Deck, Roly leaves me these- 

 
The Maxees is a 14", possibly a Mk2. pretty common, but the serial stamps are clear for I.D-ing.   No idea of the make of other one and has a 7. 3/4" cut width. Poss 20-30s.
 
Not a machine, but this will jog a few memories from up to the 60s-
 
  I'll fix up and Oily Rag this one.
 
Edit- deleted surplus image

Not much to report other tha MadTrax now looks like this!!
 

 
 
With a bit of luck I will get the strip down video finished and up today, so you can see how the above happened

I have used these people before and I see they have 5/8" x 18 (UNF)
            -CLEVIS-

Yes it is Norm, I like the whole design. Very precise and versatile. Will even atomise paraffin to run an engine (if run on petrol first for 20 seconds).
No washers! , all joints are machined tapered fits. Although they were noted for drips, occasional flooding etc, I think if they are carefully cleaned and assembled, they won't do that.
Fortunately, I now have a full copy of (c1926) service instructions for these carbs to work with.
 
 
No secrets or magic Nigel. Most of the stuff I use is found under the kitchen sink. Old worn out green scouring pad (softer). Shiny Sink cream cleaner. White vinegar.
Piece of Aluminium for a scraper, old toothbrushes for the outside of carb body. Soft steel/brass wire brushes.
Inside- Thinners for cellulose (acetone), tooth and small inter-dental brushes. Old version 'T' cut. Then put some time and elbow grease into it and wash thoroughly in thinners-
 

 
 
 

Confronted with a problem while assessing parts for a current project. A 96 year old carburettor with a damaged, rusted up Mushroom Air Filter-
 

 
Side angle showing it's firm, seized up attachment to the Carb body-
 

 
I had given it a dose of my preferred homemade Penetrating Oil brew as I wanted to remove the Filter without damage so I can maybe reuse the threaded Back Plate with a new dome on it.
But what to use that would provide a good gripping turn force without damaging it......... Then the light bulb illuminated above my head (no emoji for it).
I stopped servicing my own vehicles a few years ago, but I remembered that I had a real good Oil Filter Extractor for use in confined spaces-
 
  
 
Gently held the carb in a vise-
 

 
.... and proceeded to carefully apply an 'undo'  force-

 
applied about 20 ft lbs and it freed up and undid-
 
 
 
No damage whatsoever. I was then able to finish dismantling the carb for inspection and will be able to make a new cover for the filter.
Glad to say that the carb is fully cleaned and serviceable, but not as shiny as it was when new, it was mostly nickel plated.
   
 

 

Yes it is Norm, I like the whole design. Very precise and versatile. Will even atomise paraffin to run an engine (if run on petrol first for 20 seconds).
No washers! , all joints are machined tapered fits. Although they were noted for drips, occasional flooding etc, I think if they are carefully cleaned and assembled, they won't do that.
Fortunately, I now have a full copy of (c1926) service instructions for these carbs to work with.
 
 
No secrets or magic Nigel. Most of the stuff I use is found under the kitchen sink. Old worn out green scouring pad (softer). Shiny Sink cream cleaner. White vinegar.
Piece of Aluminium for a scraper, old toothbrushes for the outside of carb body. Soft steel/brass wire brushes.
Inside- Thinners for cellulose (acetone), tooth and small inter-dental brushes. Old version 'T' cut. Then put some time and elbow grease into it and wash thoroughly in thinners-
 

 
 
 

Confronted with a problem while assessing parts for a current project. A 96 year old carburettor with a damaged, rusted up Mushroom Air Filter-
 

 
Side angle showing it's firm, seized up attachment to the Carb body-
 

 
I had given it a dose of my preferred homemade Penetrating Oil brew as I wanted to remove the Filter without damage so I can maybe reuse the threaded Back Plate with a new dome on it.
But what to use that would provide a good gripping turn force without damaging it......... Then the light bulb illuminated above my head (no emoji for it).
I stopped servicing my own vehicles a few years ago, but I remembered that I had a real good Oil Filter Extractor for use in confined spaces-
 
  
 
Gently held the carb in a vise-
 

 
.... and proceeded to carefully apply an 'undo'  force-

 
applied about 20 ft lbs and it freed up and undid-
 
 
 
No damage whatsoever. I was then able to finish dismantling the carb for inspection and will be able to make a new cover for the filter.
Glad to say that the carb is fully cleaned and serviceable, but not as shiny as it was when new, it was mostly nickel plated.
   
 

 

Yes it is Norm, I like the whole design. Very precise and versatile. Will even atomise paraffin to run an engine (if run on petrol first for 20 seconds).
No washers! , all joints are machined tapered fits. Although they were noted for drips, occasional flooding etc, I think if they are carefully cleaned and assembled, they won't do that.
Fortunately, I now have a full copy of (c1926) service instructions for these carbs to work with.
 
 
No secrets or magic Nigel. Most of the stuff I use is found under the kitchen sink. Old worn out green scouring pad (softer). Shiny Sink cream cleaner. White vinegar.
Piece of Aluminium for a scraper, old toothbrushes for the outside of carb body. Soft steel/brass wire brushes.
Inside- Thinners for cellulose (acetone), tooth and small inter-dental brushes. Old version 'T' cut. Then put some time and elbow grease into it and wash thoroughly in thinners-
 

 
 
 

Yes it is Norm, I like the whole design. Very precise and versatile. Will even atomise paraffin to run an engine (if run on petrol first for 20 seconds).
No washers! , all joints are machined tapered fits. Although they were noted for drips, occasional flooding etc, I think if they are carefully cleaned and assembled, they won't do that.
Fortunately, I now have a full copy of (c1926) service instructions for these carbs to work with.
 
 
No secrets or magic Nigel. Most of the stuff I use is found under the kitchen sink. Old worn out green scouring pad (softer). Shiny Sink cream cleaner. White vinegar.
Piece of Aluminium for a scraper, old toothbrushes for the outside of carb body. Soft steel/brass wire brushes.
Inside- Thinners for cellulose (acetone), tooth and small inter-dental brushes. Old version 'T' cut. Then put some time and elbow grease into it and wash thoroughly in thinners-
 

 
 
 

Yes it is Norm, I like the whole design. Very precise and versatile. Will even atomise paraffin to run an engine (if run on petrol first for 20 seconds).
No washers! , all joints are machined tapered fits. Although they were noted for drips, occasional flooding etc, I think if they are carefully cleaned and assembled, they won't do that.
Fortunately, I now have a full copy of (c1926) service instructions for these carbs to work with.
 
 
No secrets or magic Nigel. Most of the stuff I use is found under the kitchen sink. Old worn out green scouring pad (softer). Shiny Sink cream cleaner. White vinegar.
Piece of Aluminium for a scraper, old toothbrushes for the outside of carb body. Soft steel/brass wire brushes.
Inside- Thinners for cellulose (acetone), tooth and small inter-dental brushes. Old version 'T' cut. Then put some time and elbow grease into it and wash thoroughly in thinners-
 

 
 
 

Still bits and pieces to do on the tractor but have also been working on the trailer.  Wanted this to be as compact as possible but still big enough to sit in comfort.  The chassis started life as a transport frame for motor cycles, shipped in part assembled form to a dealer near where I worked.  This was altered to a trolley using wheely bin wheels with a storage box and frame on top so that I could move large model boats from the car to lakeside at the various locations we sailed at.  Most lakes did not have access for cars, only footpaths.  The trolley frame is shown below minus it's towing handle.
 

 
This now out of use frame was cut down and used for my sit on trailer.  A new axle was made from box section and 16mm bar bolted together and to the frame, using pneumatic wheels instead of the solid tires used for the boat trolley. 
 

 
The seat mount was made up from scrap ply with alloy sheet outer panels.  The edges were trimmed with alloy angle, more scrap salvaged when clearing my friends land.

 
The sit on part of the seat is actually the backrest part of a seat I bought on eBay.  The seat section looked too big when fitted so went into storage.  Short lengths of studding were fitted into the already welded in mounting nuts and just drop into holes in the box top.  Hope this makes sense.
 

 
The now proper backrest, complete with it's Wheel Horse motif, was kindly donated by Chris the Showman, and is mounted on doubled up lengths of alloy angle.
 

Confronted with a problem while assessing parts for a current project. A 96 year old carburettor with a damaged, rusted up Mushroom Air Filter-
 

 
Side angle showing it's firm, seized up attachment to the Carb body-
 

 
I had given it a dose of my preferred homemade Penetrating Oil brew as I wanted to remove the Filter without damage so I can maybe reuse the threaded Back Plate with a new dome on it.
But what to use that would provide a good gripping turn force without damaging it......... Then the light bulb illuminated above my head (no emoji for it).
I stopped servicing my own vehicles a few years ago, but I remembered that I had a real good Oil Filter Extractor for use in confined spaces-
 
  
 
Gently held the carb in a vise-
 

 
.... and proceeded to carefully apply an 'undo'  force-

 
applied about 20 ft lbs and it freed up and undid-
 
 
 
No damage whatsoever. I was then able to finish dismantling the carb for inspection and will be able to make a new cover for the filter.
Glad to say that the carb is fully cleaned and serviceable, but not as shiny as it was when new, it was mostly nickel plated.
   
 

 

Confronted with a problem while assessing parts for a current project. A 96 year old carburettor with a damaged, rusted up Mushroom Air Filter-
 

 
Side angle showing it's firm, seized up attachment to the Carb body-
 

 
I had given it a dose of my preferred homemade Penetrating Oil brew as I wanted to remove the Filter without damage so I can maybe reuse the threaded Back Plate with a new dome on it.
But what to use that would provide a good gripping turn force without damaging it......... Then the light bulb illuminated above my head (no emoji for it).
I stopped servicing my own vehicles a few years ago, but I remembered that I had a real good Oil Filter Extractor for use in confined spaces-
 
  
 
Gently held the carb in a vise-
 

 
.... and proceeded to carefully apply an 'undo'  force-

 
applied about 20 ft lbs and it freed up and undid-
 
 
 
No damage whatsoever. I was then able to finish dismantling the carb for inspection and will be able to make a new cover for the filter.
Glad to say that the carb is fully cleaned and serviceable, but not as shiny as it was when new, it was mostly nickel plated.
   
 

 

Confronted with a problem while assessing parts for a current project. A 96 year old carburettor with a damaged, rusted up Mushroom Air Filter-
 

 
Side angle showing it's firm, seized up attachment to the Carb body-
 

 
I had given it a dose of my preferred homemade Penetrating Oil brew as I wanted to remove the Filter without damage so I can maybe reuse the threaded Back Plate with a new dome on it.
But what to use that would provide a good gripping turn force without damaging it......... Then the light bulb illuminated above my head (no emoji for it).
I stopped servicing my own vehicles a few years ago, but I remembered that I had a real good Oil Filter Extractor for use in confined spaces-
 
  
 
Gently held the carb in a vise-
 

 
.... and proceeded to carefully apply an 'undo'  force-

 
applied about 20 ft lbs and it freed up and undid-
 
 
 
No damage whatsoever. I was then able to finish dismantling the carb for inspection and will be able to make a new cover for the filter.
Glad to say that the carb is fully cleaned and serviceable, but not as shiny as it was when new, it was mostly nickel plated.
   
 

 

Confronted with a problem while assessing parts for a current project. A 96 year old carburettor with a damaged, rusted up Mushroom Air Filter-
 

 
Side angle showing it's firm, seized up attachment to the Carb body-
 

 
I had given it a dose of my preferred homemade Penetrating Oil brew as I wanted to remove the Filter without damage so I can maybe reuse the threaded Back Plate with a new dome on it.
But what to use that would provide a good gripping turn force without damaging it......... Then the light bulb illuminated above my head (no emoji for it).
I stopped servicing my own vehicles a few years ago, but I remembered that I had a real good Oil Filter Extractor for use in confined spaces-
 
  
 
Gently held the carb in a vise-
 

 
.... and proceeded to carefully apply an 'undo'  force-

 
applied about 20 ft lbs and it freed up and undid-
 
 
 
No damage whatsoever. I was then able to finish dismantling the carb for inspection and will be able to make a new cover for the filter.
Glad to say that the carb is fully cleaned and serviceable, but not as shiny as it was when new, it was mostly nickel plated.
   
 

 

Hi all, not entirely sure which category to put this in, it's not horticultural as such, but is related in a round about sort of way! 
I've just picked up this old Rice horsebox, the idea being that with internal dimensions of 9' x 4 and a bit foot, it is the perfect size for transporting my Ransomes Mg2, plus other machines. Then, once at the event, unload the machines, set up the camp bed etc, and I have somewhere half habitable to sleep in! Thus doing away with the annoyance of tents!! 
Anyway, the plan is to rub down and repaint inside and out, replace the checker plate bits with perspex to allow some light in, new piece of plywood on the floor, and fix the leak in the roof. 
I believe this is quite an early model, so there is an element of restoration here too, has anyone else any experience of fixing up these trailers? 
I will add some more photos when it stops raining!