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  1. Past hour
  2. Wheelhorse from bits

    Go on Harry
  3. Today
  4. The lead that you describe as going to the throttle is the “ kill / stop” wire and could be the cause of your loss of spark. Make sure that it is not earthing out . You don’t mention a condenser so you probably have a coil incorporating one. I am fairly certain that your engine is an early A98. - aluminium crankcase, 98cc - as the later ones and the 112cc and 114 cc aluminium engines that followed had electronic ignition - no points.
  5. Hi Wristpin There is a recoil unit I had removed it to clean everything up. The Carb I have stripped down cleaned the jets and replaced the gasket I can blow through all the jets and its has stopped leaking now. I had been putting the recoil back on each time to test but have tried to use the drill as a quicker way to test. I will try it with the recoil back on tonight and see if I get a spark. As this machine is used I am unsure if it is all wired up right there is a cable from the magneto to the points, the ht lead from the bottom of the magneto to the spark plug, a cable from the points to the throttle. There was also a broken cable from one side of the magneto the other side which I had to replace. Ill take some more pictures of behind the fly wheel tonight. I have wondered if I had order the wrong points as we were only guessing what engine we had. Thank you for all the information so far.
  6. Yesterday
  7. That’s a bit of a mess in the carb and governor department! Have you checked for a spark straight off the end of the plug lead with the cap removed? Also , with no sign of a recoil unit , how are you spinning the engine? May be just not fast enough, or is the clue in that drill lying on the ground? May still not be fast enough. Can’t see from the images but is there a wire from the magneto to an insulated terminal on the carb. If there is, that is the kill wire and it may be shorting out. When you were in the mag replacing the points did you notice a condenser ? If there’s no separate condenser it may have the later pattern coil incorporateing a condenser and the whole unit may have failed but before going that route check that the plug lead is firmly screwed into the coil . An image of the mag with the flywheel removed will be useful.
  8. Just got myself a rotavator, believe its a qualcast culti super with a 98cc suffolk engine. I'm hoping someone will be able to confirm this. It was last used about 4 years ago and was then left outside down the back of a shed. Engine is free, spins with good compression but not getting any spark. Replaced the point and tried with a different spark plug but still no spark. Any advise on what I should be looking at next would be very much appreciated Thanks Ian
  9. O&R spark coil

    yeah that's the one, it turned out to be NOS, I took off the gearbox cover & everything is in factory original condition, put a few drops of oil in the cylinder & excellent compression I missed the other one for parts [my offer wasn't the 1st] that was sold for $35 It's no rush for me to find the magneto coil, I could use something similar but would like the OEM Which serial numbers had problems & what?
  10. Lots of Goodies even some O&R

    Thanks David, always good to watch these auctions just in case no one bids
  11. Still available according to their website; http://www.gsparkplug.com/1x-ngk-copper-core-spark-plug-cm-6-cm6-5812.html Seems to be the spark plug used on the 1960's Honda E300 generator. The parts list that came with my Tiny Tor is dated August 1964, the next update of the parts diagram I have is dated November 1965, so a date of around 1965 is probably right. They only used the fourth threaded hole in the tank on the earliest engines, which had a stud/nut fitted below the carb. The different screws fitted here are none original. I guess they never changed the tank design though. Steel bluing giving a black oxide finish is not the same as oil blacking as far as I know, the bluing process involves various chemicals depending on the process used, oil can be used at the end of the process for rust prevention; https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bluing_(steel) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_oxide Have a look on youtube for bluing of guns or knives to see the process. Looks like there are two methods for oil blacking, dipping heated parts in oil or baking oiled parts, some info here; http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general-archive/oil-blackening-rust-protection-84713/ David
  12. Wheelhorse from bits

    Looks very good Chris, just right on the patina
  13. Wheelhorse from bits

    Had the Wheelhorse out today in the southern sunshine and drove it round the garden a few times. Runs and drives as it should so I'm very pleased with it.
  14. Exactly what I thought, I guess original spares were probably more difficult to find before the internet existed, especially in countries with few or no service shops or parts distributors for O&R's. David
  15. O&R spark coil

    I guess you bought the unused looking Model J engine (with 900rpm output gearbox) with no coil that was on ebay, if it was made before October 1963 it probably has the plastic bearing cages in the engine & die-cast gears in the gearbox, the NIAE tested a couple of these in 1964 and had quite a few problems with the early ones. Possible source of an untested used one here, I would ask the seller to check the resistance of the secondary is OK before buying. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sears-Mighty-Light-Orline-Chainsaw-OEM-Coil-/161674949894?rmvSB=true David
  16. Lots of Goodies even some O&R

    More pictures here but can't see the O&R's; https://www.estatesales.net/MO/Salisbury/65281/1732494 I guess a full catalogue will appear on the auctioneers website here soon; https://imankc.com/current-auctions/ David
  17. HALF a HORSE.

    The original exhaust which.was used for the test runs was unsuitable for scale appearance and was also in the wrong position. A 180 degree bend to fit within the side panels was needed. I tried a length of flexi pipe I had but this wouldn't bend into a tight enough radius. A piece of 15mm copper pipe was bent up using an ancient and crude pipe bender ( found at friend John's place ) where else, which gave the required result. The exhaust stub on the engine is approx 22mm outside diameter although the bore is a lot smaller. An adapter was turned up to suit. During the clear out at John's various stainless steel silencers were found which John had made at work. This one was removed from a mower and cleaned up. This was connected to the copper pipe via an old 90 degree plumbing elbow after cleaning off all the muck. After finding a length of chrome plated pipe a posher version was bent up. No prizes for guessing where these came from. Not sure how this pipe and the plating will stand up to the heat but not the end of the world if it doesn't. An extension was made for the silencer, again from copper pipe, as I didn't have anything else of a suitable diameter. This was drilled and the lower end plugged as per the full size. An adapter ring was turned up, drilled and tapped to hold everything together. This ring also located the assembly into the grill surround. The completed parts and after fitting. Still need to make some adjustments.
  18. Gutbrod 1030

    Hi thank u so much this should help me out thanks again
  19. Lots of Goodies even some O&R

    Wonder what sort of $ they will fetch...
  20. https://columbiamo.craigslist.org/atq/d/john-cox-collection/6389722477.html
  21. I think David is right, it's probably somebody's replacement for 131 or 15 on your photo.
  22. Gutbrod 1030

    Hope this helps
  23. Aspera/Tecumseh query

    Straight fins on the cylinder head Wristpin. That new gasket will be fine, it touches in all the right places and just needs another hole making! When I return home next weekend I will line up the fuel tank temporarily as the fuel line is still fitted (it hasn't been cut) and it will tell me where abouts the original carb and inlet manifold were positioned, I can then try and search for the correct set up. I think that it will be similar to the one on Paul Mackellow's Gardenmaster 85 as his engine looks to be the same as my one with a similar spec plate, no hurry though as still plenty of work needs doing on the framework. Pete.
  24. Happy birthday Ranger

    Happy birthday doug!
  25. Happy birthday Ranger

    Happy Birthday Doug, hope you are having a great day.
  26. Could it be the crankshaft thrust disk? Part 148-3. Item 15 here.
  27. The wear marks on both sides correspond with it having sat between oil hole and flywheel bolt. The other side has markings to match the recoil housing oil hole. The wear is only superficial for the most part but the pictures give a good idea of what orientation it sat in.
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