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- Yesterday
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A few years ago I converted the 12" Suffolk Colt to scarifier / lawn rake duties. All the conversion work is reversible. I bought a 12" scarifier cassette of the Atco, Allett, Qualcast, Suffolk punch type. The blade was removed from the mower and the deflector from the cassette modified to fit the mower fixing at the top with the existing screws and underneath with bolts from either side threaded into captive nuts on a piece of angle. (A rod with tapped holes either end would be better as the angle collects swarf) When in use the chaff flies nicely into the grass box. The more interesting bit was fitting the scarifier blades. The 16mm shaft from the cassette was too short to be modified so I used a new piece of 16mm bright mild steel shaft and machined the ends to fit deep groove ball bearings either end, I think these were 6202 with external sleeves to match the mower. The right hand end of the shaft was machined to suit the existing chain sprocket. The chain sprocket is driven by the original drive pin and the cassette came with its own drive pins and belleville washers to hold it all compressed together. The picture shows the new drive shaft with centre hole in the end. The deflector lower bolt can also be seen and the some will recognise it as an M8 bolt head where 5/16" would serve equally well!!
- Last week
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FredaFoley changed their profile photo
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I have one of these, I have just started a post but then noticed this one. I don't know anything about them and came here to find out more
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Hello, newbie here and haven't got a clue, so apologies in advance I have what I'm told is an old Wolseley Rough cutter, I'm also told it's probably a Briggs 5hp. I am here to find out more about it. It's been sat in my parents garage for 20+ years. I only have this one picture, but I will be getting more tomorrow
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FredaFoley joined the community
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FAO Anzani man.
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I am selling this old mower, a project but interesting renovation for my friend and is open to offers.
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The wire should go to a kill switch button on the handle to shut down the engine by grounding the coil. Location of the switch depends on the model. One port is an air vent. It goes from the bottom of the tank to just inside of the fuel cap. The other port is the fuel feed to the carb. More than likely it will need a new carb diaphragm to run or run correctly. Check the air filter BEFORE trying to start it. If it has that old crusty material inside, it will need to be thoroughly cleaned out. Otherwise it will be sucked into the engine. Not good. If you use the search feature you can find other threads on the Drillgine drills. Here's a link to the search results for "Drillgine" in topics only. There are threads on the early reds and later yellows https://myoldmachine.com/search/?q=drillgine&quick=1&type=forums_topic
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Hello everyone, just picked up a Olson and Rice Drillgine yesterday and was taking it apart to do a good clean up and see if I can get it running. The red wire that goes through the handle comes out around the magneto is not connected to anything. Wondering if any of you guys might snap a picture for me of where it goes. Also the fuel lines are not attached and I see two ports on the fuel tank and only found one place on the carb to attach a fuel line and I'm guessing that goes on the lower port of the tank. Thanks for any help you guys can give
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Hi All, I am a new member but hope my content is of interest and may inspire others to use their Suffolk punch mowers. I am a fan among other things of Suffolk punch mowers with Suffolk iron foundry engine. I have attached a picture, both of these 75cc mowers are in use, the 14" mower will be refurbished sometime over the next couple of years, the 12" mower has been re-purposed so it has a new life as a scarifier which is what I would like to talk about in a few forthcoming posts. The 75cc iron engine on the 12" has also been slightly modified using my lathe and milling machine, more to follow...
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He took them all down
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Hi I am restoring abritsh Anzani lawnrider and would like to contact a fellow owner to perhaps offer me information regarding the set up of machine thanks
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workshop manual 1970 s 2 stroke aspera engines -
Thats a nice job mate I like that !
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Are you still after the tooling for this borer?
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Hi just a quick post ive found some where to buy drive belts at right money for my old hayter mowers i will post link to there web site regards Simon. https://www.wychbearings.co.uk
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Thank you Ray That probably equates to ~ £40 these days which isn't too bad. However i've been totting up what i'll need to spend to get it useable and decided I might just put it on the back burner for now. As I mentioned it is a very old model where the clutch is a different design to anything posted on this site, and to put it politely .... i can understand why the design was changed ! I have another 21 which I bought ages ago which i've not had to tinker with much.....if it ain't bust etc. etc. That one is the later design and pulls like a train. Lovely machine. Thanks for the help & Seasons Greetings.
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That's good information but those diagrams show the spring pushing down on the cross bar - what is the correct way ? When I reassembled my brake shoes I couldn't get the drum back on because the tang on the spring was resting against a collar on the reverse side of the brake shoe spring pin which meant the shoes were being held apart by the thickness of the spring. I bent the spring so that it rested on the pin rather than the collar and managed to get the drum back on only to find that the brake cable has stiffened up to the extent that it no longer moves easily, I think it may have frayed inside the outer casing. Here we go again !
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Hi Paul, After some research I found the cheque stub and the cost was £28.68 but this was in 2018. At the time I was asked if I wanted woven or grey moulded friction plates and I opted for woven as it was suggested these would have the better chance of good adhesion. Regards Ray
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I have been sent two scaned pages detailing the Lockheed brake assembly form Brakes and Brake Testing by Maurice Platt, 1934. A definitive layout of brake components so now I feel confident that they will be correctly assembled. Happy days.
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Thank you both for your comments. RayP if you have chance to find that Invoice i'd be very grateful. Basically i am just trying to estimate the cost (viability) of restoring the Machine back to working condition. Thanks Paul
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Hi, I purchased new linings for my Hayter 21 some time ago and will endeavour to trace the invoice and let you know the cost. These were bought from a lining supplier suggested by Anglo Traction and were glued in place with Araldite as he also suggested. I suspect the originals did contain asbestos but I did not have to remove them as they fell off. Regards
