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  1. Last week
  2. Back in the day it was Japan stealing the IP and now it's China stealing the IP. I'm sure there are also USA companies that did/do the same
  3. That makes sense too John, these two companies were bouncing off each other in direct competition. Cheers Tom
  4. That information kinda mirrors the O&R engines Screw from the back early engines Screw on from the front middle year engines Then the screw on starters about 1970
  5. Thanks, yes this is starting to add up. I believe the first digit in the engine number is the year made? so the P5 1959, 1960, and 1961. then the P7 starts in 1962 first with the early fine finned fan starter cover same as P5 screwed from the back. then the P7 about ‘66-67 with the course or heavier finned starter cover screwed from the front. then later P7 about 1970 with the screw on pull start assembly. then 1975 they went to the T23 engines. then about 1980 they came back to the S22 engines.these look more similar to the Old P7’s
  6. Now that the 'Show Season' is upon us again for another year,.... DO PLEASE KEEP AN EYE OUT FOR MY STOLEN 1960s TROJAN 'TORAKTOR. Powered by a Newton engine and other mods made when I restored it. Many Thanks to all of you out there. TCS. 01580 211376 or Tim@Permanden . co . uk
  7. Earlier
  8. Interesting, my P-5 has a serial number tag on the fan case but the P-7 on my auger doesn’t have a serial number label.
  9. Clint does your P5 have a serial number on the fan cover thanks cheers Tom
  10. David is there a serial number on the fan case? Because this is the later version P7 with the screw on pull start mech. I suspect the first digit in the serial number is the year made? Cheers Tom
  11. Hello Tony, Only just seen your post. Afraid the dimensions you state don't relate to my faded memory of the chain size. I thought it was a 1/2" pitch (12.7mm)?, but could be 5/8" (15.9mm). The best thing you an do is match yours to a chart and order one. Here is a good chart example by a long established British company. Note:- 1970s machines would have use imperial sizes. Modern chains still use the dimensions, but in metric also. Pin size is very important and needs measuring accurately to ensure a good fit. Chain Chart
  12. An incredible build Richard! Hats off to you.
  13. hello,can anyone tell me the size code of the drive chain on old 70s osprey it measures aprox 15mm across pins centres-aprox 5.6mm hole to take pins- aprox 11.4mm thick chain inside-14mm outside-ime trying to find a spring link to fit my mower,thanks
  14. With all the hose clamps finished, they were checked for tightness and then several coats of Rylard Incralac Lacquer for protection- Settled for a quick way to resolve the prevention of water (rain) ingress. Soldered a plated brass hood to the original Air intake filter body-
  15. Took a look around and have some spare tools I'd consider letting go of. I also found a bar and chain that would fit that Ford saw if you haven't found one. C/Saw Circular saw Hedge Trimmer Amp Champ generator (Completely rebuilt engine) Tiny Tiger 300 generator (Completely rebuilt engine) Snow Blower (Completely rebuilt engine and gear box) ? Aquabug Outboard ? Chicken Power bicycle engine
  16. If you need something I'd search through and see if I have it. I have a bunch of used parts and laser cut diaphragms but it would be too much work to go through it all and make a list just for window shopping. Probably have some doubles of some tools I'd consider letting go. Circular saw, Amp Champ generator, Tiny Tiger generator.
  17. Anything, I couldn't find a topic for parts.
  18. Spares of what? Just miscellaneous Parts? Or whole O&R tools?
  19. Does anyone have any spares they want to sell? Post them here.
  20. Thank you for the compliments sir!. Much appreciated, My own worst enemy as far as detail and concept is concerned. Hope you are still enjoying the rewards of your Triumph Gloria. Had to compromise with the last hose clamp for the outlet end. Used 1/16" copper plate for it and had some 5/16" copper rod left over from rivet making for the toggles:- All these bits will be coated with Rylard Incralac Lacquer. Carb intake hood and a Spark Plug cover to make next.
  21. Ok no worries, thank you for letting me know.
  22. Not that large one pictured. The smaller discs should be attached to the diaphragms. I use a product called "Seal-All" because it stands up to gas.
  23. Those cylinder cooling fins and the air cleaners are some of the most common missing parts so your best bet is to keep an eye out on ebay as they do pop up every once in a while. Search "Orline chainsaw" for the other parts too. Chain and throttle cable. The FORD saw is just a branded Orline saw so the parts are the same, just a different color You will also need a new carb diaphragm too. If you choose to do it, the crank seals can be somewhat rejuvenated by soaking them in place with a few drops of old school brake DOT3 brake fluid. Synthetic will not work. Carb cleaner spray can work too but not as well plus it washes off the lubrication oils so it'll start dry unless you oil them afterwards and before starting it.
  24. Richard, I am totally overwhelmed with the amount of intricate work and attention to detail that you have expended on this project, from an old engine, reduction gear and water pump you have built what must be the most complicated and beautiful 2 stroke water pump ever. Thank you for sharing your thoughts and skills with us.
  25. Getting close to finishing this. Here's a few images of this project -
  26. I sold everything except a tiny tiger generator which runs and I am trying to sell it on ebay.
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