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Thank you Ray That probably equates to ~ £40 these days which isn't too bad. However i've been totting up what i'll need to spend to get it useable and decided I might just put it on the back burner for now. As I mentioned it is a very old model where the clutch is a different design to anything posted on this site, and to put it politely .... i can understand why the design was changed ! I have another 21 which I bought ages ago which i've not had to tinker with much.....if it ain't bust etc. etc. That one is the later design and pulls like a train. Lovely machine. Thanks for the help & Seasons Greetings.
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That's good information but those diagrams show the spring pushing down on the cross bar - what is the correct way ? When I reassembled my brake shoes I couldn't get the drum back on because the tang on the spring was resting against a collar on the reverse side of the brake shoe spring pin which meant the shoes were being held apart by the thickness of the spring. I bent the spring so that it rested on the pin rather than the collar and managed to get the drum back on only to find that the brake cable has stiffened up to the extent that it no longer moves easily, I think it may have frayed inside the outer casing. Here we go again !
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Hi Paul, After some research I found the cheque stub and the cost was £28.68 but this was in 2018. At the time I was asked if I wanted woven or grey moulded friction plates and I opted for woven as it was suggested these would have the better chance of good adhesion. Regards Ray
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I have been sent two scaned pages detailing the Lockheed brake assembly form Brakes and Brake Testing by Maurice Platt, 1934. A definitive layout of brake components so now I feel confident that they will be correctly assembled. Happy days.
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Thank you both for your comments. RayP if you have chance to find that Invoice i'd be very grateful. Basically i am just trying to estimate the cost (viability) of restoring the Machine back to working condition. Thanks Paul
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Hi, I purchased new linings for my Hayter 21 some time ago and will endeavour to trace the invoice and let you know the cost. These were bought from a lining supplier suggested by Anglo Traction and were glued in place with Araldite as he also suggested. I suspect the originals did contain asbestos but I did not have to remove them as they fell off. Regards
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Hi, Afraid I'm not familiar with the older 21s, only the Osprey version. Others may know more?. With the friction linings delaminated from the plate(s), it is not easy to assess if they should be the same as the Osprey. On the Osprey, the linings are bonded either side of the Gear Sprocket for the plates to engage either side when drive is required. Once you have ascertained that, you have the option of obtaining the friction lining and carefully cutting them to shape and bonding with either original Araldite or your JB weld. Alternatively, you can contact Auto & Industrial and they will probably produce and bond the linings for you. The driver plate (keyed) and the driven plate (wheel side) should be able to be cleaned up ok. The adjustment of your set up should be as you describe with just a tad of clearance between the plate face and the radial bearing face when the clutch is not engaged. Although it is for the Osprey primarily, there is another well used Topic in the Other Garden Machines section on this Forum with images of the clutch parts to compare. Let us know how you get on and resolved the issies, as it will help others. Regards
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Hello everyone. If it's not to much bother. Could someone help me identify my Little generator?. Don't know much about it. It was found in the trash. I know only what the tags on it read. Not sure what size of motor it's got. It looks like a airplane motor. It appears to be old. It's an Ohlsson& Rice. No model # it's rubbed off. I found two different # on it.one Under the carb..058668.. and another on opposite side under exhaust. Type 122. I'd like to get it running if someone knows what I got, and where I might find a parts break down or list. It needs the plug wire and magneto. Bst I can tell. I'd appreciate it if someone could point me in the right direction. Here's a couple pictures. Thank y'all. Very much.
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You are posting under your profile so no one will see this. Best to post under the forum. (Click on Start New Topic).
What you have is an Amp Champ generator. It's 300 watts output and will do AC and 12v DC.
Someone didn't know how to get spark and removed the coil. Out of 75ish engines, the only bad coils I've had were damaged ones. You will need a coil now which I could probably supply ($25) and a carb diaphragm ($10). Remove the cover and flywheel and there's a cover. Under that cover is the contact points. Clean the 2 contacts and the post the spring is pushing against and should get spark.
There is a carb tutorial thread to explain how to do the diaphragm
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tinkernfarmboy joined the community
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Many thanks. I have been shown pictures of the spring fitted to push the cross bar down but as you have shown my intuition appears correct. It should be pulled up so the step in the arm is in contact with the pin. There is in the parts diagram th ecorrect locating arrangement in place of your wsher. It consists of #4072 (slotted cover that goes over the pin and held in place by the bolt) , #4073 (a steped bolt) and #5130 ƕ washer and castlegated nut and split pin. I'll take and post a picture. What is the saying about great minds? I had the same plan when it came to compressing the Thackeray washer. The thickness of the washer is a great help. I'll machine up four washers from some 1 1/4" stainless steel bar I have. What a job this is!
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HOLD IT - I'm wrong! I raked out an old backplate and shoes to try the hand brake mechanism and found that your initial set up with the spring pushing upwards on the cross shaft is correct. If you look at this photo you can see that I modified the brake shoe with a bolt and collar to prevent the cross shaft from being pushed off the pin on the shoe. I then removed the spring and turned it round to correct position and when replacing to back plate discovered that the spring was fouling the boot on the wheel cylinder which explains why I modified it in the first place, I have now bent the spring a little to clear the boot and it seems OK now. As far as the anchor pin is concerned the brake shoes fit directly to the pin followed by double spring (thackery) washer X634 then plain washer X566 before fitting the circlip 7191. X 634 is 1 5/16" OD x 7/8" ID x 1/2" non compressed X 566 is 1 1/4" OD x 7/8" ID x 0.062" thick Fitting the circlip is a real PITA as the spring needs to be fully compressed before the clip can be fitted. I made a tool from a piece of thin section tube with 1" ID as below Damn I've loaded it twice, however by placing this against the plain washer with tags at 12 and 6 o'clock and using a G Clamp you can compress the spring and get the circlip started in the slot and then tapped down to meet the top tag as below Slacken clamp and remove before tapping the clip fully home.
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Hi all. I know this has been covered before, but i have a few specific questions which you may be able to help me with please. I have been given another Hayter 21 which was destined for scrap. I hate to see these lovely old machines lost so am trying to work out if its worth saving (economically) . The Deck is all solid, disc/blades all good, engine started briefly so I know I can fix that (I have a spare anyway), tyres are completely shot, clutch lever operates perfectly (locks out) BUT has no effect on the drive. This appears to be an ex council machine unless they were ever produced in yellow ! Serial number on a brass plate 3 3998 so i think its one of the first ?. I have dismantled the drive casing and discovered why it wasn't driving. The inboard clutch disc is completely loose and the outboard clutch disc is firmly glued to the wheel hub ! This is the older design with a simple split pin securing the wheel (not threaded). I have downloaded the manual which was kindly added to the site, but the componentry is obviously quite different. The clutch operates on two springs (one inside the other) not the series of 5 spring discs as per the manual. The shaft passes through a bearing and is located by a circlip (see photo). There is only a tiny bit of end float between the circlip and the bearing, and all the PB bushes appear to be in good nick. My questions are: 1) Has anyone purchased new clutch discs for a 21 ? And if so can you give me an approximation of the cost ? 2) Did you send the sprocket away to have them fitted or glue them yourself (JB Weld ?) 3) I presume the originals contain asbestos so should be removed with caution ? 4) As far as adjustment on this older design, presumably its just a case of getting the clutch arm parallel ? Appreciate any advice. Thanks
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Thanks for the picture. I have put the spring on in said fashion and it looks as though its not get enough tension so some tweeking will be required. It studying the parts page to see what shape the spring should actually be I notices mention of washers for the anchor pin. This now has me troubled because I don't have any washers. I've uploaded the parts plate. #X568 is anchor pin plain washer (X4) X566 is shoe anchor pin plain washer (X8). My guess is that there is a plain washer against the back plate and between the shoes and then one under the anchor pin cir clip (#7191). I do'nt know how thick each wasjer should be but the anchor pin is about 0.86" so I can work out he inner diameter sand probably the outer diameter too. Would yo uagree with my proposal for where the washers go? I read with great interest your post on your restoration. It will be very valuable as I do not have a body for my 1936 Triumph Gloria. I think it is politely called a special. I have tried to download the comments so I can study them later. My project came to me via my mentor who when I started teaching took me under his wing. It was a chassis only at the back of the workshop when I arrived at the school in 1976. Over the years although I moved schools and counties I helped in buying, transporting, repairing and making parts for Gloria. When he died I bought the project from his estate. I am basically putting together a jigsaw without all the parts and no picture. I bought another Triumph, a 1934 Gloria saloon a couple of years ago that is in a very bad way but I hoped it would provide a source of information and perhaps some parts. It turns out that there is a world of difference between 1934 and 1936 Triumphs.
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Fired up the wood burner in the workshop this morning, discovered the trolley jack low on oil, topped it up and removed the wheel and drum from the Gloria to find that the spring does act upon the cross shaft. It actually pushes down on the shaft as above, I couldn't see where the tang locates and I was not about to dismantle it to find out but you should be able to figure it out as you assemble it to the brake shoe. I had to use my steam driven phone as my camera has decided it has had enough and the screen has gone blank and if you have read my post about my sympathetic restoration of my Gloria in this section you will already know that modern technology and I don't get on very well. Which model of Gloria are you restoring ?
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Thank you for taking your time to help me sort this. It is much appreciated. It has occured to me like a lot of mechanical aspects of these early Triumphs a lot of mechanical knowledge has not been recorded and with cars not undergoing a lot of miles few are getting serviced. The result is the knowledge is getting lost. I am making sure that I keep a record of things as I go, just in case the next generation want to keep these cars on the road.
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I found my spare handbrake mechanism and spring today but I still can't remember how it is assembled, it was 2006 when I did the rear brakes before finding the ash frame was in need of repair and was another 10 years before I found the time needed to get it done. It looks as though the temperature is going up a bit at the weekend, I'll take a wheel and brake drum off and let you know. The old fingers don't like the cold these days.
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Thanks - for the info. With the parts book refering to it as 'spring push rod' I thought it may refer to the bar that pushes the two shoes apart when the handbrake is applied. The problem I have is that I can not see a way of th espring actually making its way to the handbrake ctuating arm if it sits on the pivot as the coil in the spring suggests.
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Try-umph, It has been a while since I did the rear brakes on my Gloria and I can't really remember where that spring fits but it is there to pull against the hand brake cable which connects to the slot on the lower arm so it must push against the lower arm just above the slot . It certainly does not fit against the cross arm which pushes against the shoes. I would offer to take a look at mine but it is - 8 deg C at the moment and does not look like rising above zero for a few days.
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1936 Triumph Gloria rear brakes It's springtime! Not quite perhaps but I would like to know how or where this spring fits (circled in yellow, part #5167) and its purpose. I am aware they are handed and that it must hold something in place. The brakes came to me disassembled so I have never seen them on the backplate. My best guess so far is also shown. To me it does not feel right, the shorter curved end looks as though it should wrap around or rest against something.
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Cheers Nigel this is what i did today after sitting back and thinking about it but hey they were a bugger lol.
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Go to face book look up Vintage Horticulture machinery group, there are plenty of people on there that have them
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Use a couple of longer bolts to pull the wheel together then swap them after you have tightened the shorter ones in the other holes
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Hi folks i have new tyres to fit on my osprey managed to take them apart and split the hubs and remove tyres just wondering what the trick is on putting them back together again, as they seam to be very tighto n the new tyres and getting the hubs to meet up again to bolt back together regards Simon
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Does anyone have any info on these machines? Thanks
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flexishielduk joined the community
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Are Tractor Forums About Real Tractors?
mattblack replied to 1967Craftsman's's topic in Off-Topic Discussion
Interesting post. I think in any hobby there will be a minority (and it is a minority) of people that look down on those who don't involve themselves at the 'level' they do. I like and am interested in all kinds of old mechanical and industrial 'stuff'. I was always into classic and modified cars more, I have lots of different ones over the years, some I've modified myself, some bought already done. But they've all been at the 'bottom' of the scene, due to the facilities/skills I have and the fact I can't justify spending loads on a 'toy', as I'm not big into going to shows ect. The kind of thing I had is often referred to as a 'starter car', implying that you should move onto something 'better'. Lack of facilities, and going on from that lack of enthusiasm for working on cars outside as I got older was what got me into engines. Again, I do small air cooled stuff due to limited space and facilities. As long as you enjoy what you do that's what matters.
