Leaderboard

A while back I messaged Greg aka stiemmy if I could buy his old seat cover as he bought a new one off 29 Chev.from the Bolens Forum. Greg said I could have it free if I paid for the postage. On it arrival I gave the seat a deep clean to remove the years of accumulated grime. I am very happy with the results of the patina on the seat as this will be a working tractor. Anyhow I got around to putting the seat cover onto my 1050 today. I think it looks miles better than the old black one. My thanks to Greg for helping out a fellow Bolens owner. Here are some photos of before and after taken from my phone...

I had to leave this for a few days as i had other commitments namely mot on the Sprinter and the Chevy . Im sorting out the transmission that seems to be weeping oil and the hitch pin is rusted solid which will need drilling out. I pulled another box out but thought I'd carry on with the original. I had to leave it over night to let whatever was in it to dribble out, it certainly wasn't sae 140. I cut through the pin each side to remove the hitch and spacers the cut it again near the casing, drilled a hole through the pin using 3 different sizes drill bits then nocked it out. Ive ordered some new axle seals from Toro and think i have the others in stock. Next job will be to remove all the pulleys and hubs and clean it up. Heres some photos of today's activities.

Oh great. Thats cheaper, but will need some for another tractor at point thanks Ewan Mine arrived today & they have tubes

I know just what you mean. You have to have the bits of paper as well. Until that is someone wants a real engineer who can use spanners.

You'll know if you do. He'll fill your truck with stuff he doesn't really want. He does with my trailer.

I'm an engineer by profession but unless you can program CNC machines, which I can't, nobody is interested. I start stuff like this to keep sane plus it's something my son seems interested in now. I rebuilt a pedal go kart for him a couple of years ago but that got a bit involved and took a while so he lost interest with that. I'm hoping to do a few things on this and keep it driveable all the time.

Now the disruption of Christmas is over its back to the shed. This is a Raider 10 thats been in the back of my woodstore for a few years and during my rebuild on the Raider 12 ive been piling bits together to put it together. Had a bit of a late start as i had to clear all the sawdust after sawing up a load of wood during the last couple of days. This is as far as ive got today apart from the chassis is now sanded down to bare metal

Wow, what a deal and that is a really nice cover

Looks like it needs some more padding in there Andrew

Hi Stormin, I wasn't sure how well the clutch would work and haven't tested it fully yet. The throttle lever needs to be brought up to about half way to get the clutch to engage which the advert said should be between 1800-2000rpm. I'm not sure if still slips much from then so it might be better to go for the smaller pulley version. I found them advertised on ebay but the company are called Petrol Scooter. Here is a link to the page http://www.petrolscooter.co.uk/heavy-duty-clutch-pulley-1-inch-bore-3-shoe-karting-drive-belt-honda-gx-engine-gokart.html They are hoping to get more of the smaller pulley versions some time in February. I did find them for sale elsewhere but for considerably more money, I think the highest was about £180 from a Lawn Mower spares site although my one might not be of the same quality. It's difficult to tell from the pictures though.

Yep! It ridges the stitches.

Please explain to the soft southerner what a stitcher is Norm

Right, finally took some pictures. This is the clutch I got hold of. It's a bit of a lump of a thing but it seems to work quite well. The outside diameter of the pulley is 128mm so it's about twice the size of the original. There is a smaller version available but it's out of stock at the moment. I pinched a spacer tube from the PTO and turned it down lengthwise a bit so the crank was a couple of mm shorter than the clutch when fitted. I had to adjust the keyway and key slightly as it was a bit tight and find a shorter bolt. The tensioner is left as standard but the pedal has been separated from it. I will probably be changing the brake but for testing purposes this was OK. The brake is on in these pictures and with the rod adjusted as shown ther isn't much travel needed on the pedal anyway. A slightly revised version of the brake pedal extension. Again this is on with the handbrake engaged and by moving the pivot forward (no holes drilled) there is somewhere for the spring. Finding something suitable took a while until I remembered I had some old exhaust springs from my kart. This shows the 86" belt fitted and the reason why it was easier to keep the two tensioner pulleys. If I didn't the belt would have been rubbing against the gear selector.

Hopefully a mod will post them up properly! Zig Zag Harrow is an appropriate name for it couldn't remember the correct name for it Norm. I am really pleased that Chris hoodwinked me to buy it off him a few months ago. A really nice bit of practical kit

Got a few more bits sanded down and primered

Couple of weeks and you'll have rebuilt and running.

Managed to get in the shed and do a bit more. i finished getting the rust and crap off the chassis and got a coat of primer on it and sorted out a couple of attach a matic thingys.