Leaderboard

Got a bit done this afternoon, what a task to get the axle mounts out of a chassis lots of sawing and grinding. All done now, at least I’ve got 2 chassis’s the same length with the same mounts.

Twins!

.As I couldn’t find the original chassis ( must have used it on something else) I’ve had to use a later type. Ive 5 chassis’s hanging in the store all the same and are 5 inches longer than the Ranger and the front axle mount is different so a bit of head scratching and a cuppa out came the chop saw.

Dug this out from the storage shed and thought it would make a little winter project, I’ve got another one somewhere in bits so more rummaging when time permits. A little challenge to build the pair together for next year’s shows.

I built this out of what I had lying around, in anticipation of snow last winter. I'm still waiting. First a frame was made using some 1-5/8 bore pipe and box section. Then the front end put together The blade was made at the local smithy. No rollers big enough, so it was curved in stages on a folder. I made my own tach-o-matic for the rear. Then this dodgy character nicked it.

Got a couple of bicycle brake levers from a scrap farm bike. Bit of a mod to were it fitted to the handle bar and connected it up. After drilling a hole through a 6mm set screw to thread the bicycle cable through. Hit a snag here. The lever not being straight fouled the handle when pulled right back. So I shortened the lever. Finally I did away with the R clip that held the chain to the location pin. Threaded the hole 6mm and secured the chain. Might throw some paint at it sometime. Also see if I can find a straight steel lever to fit. Maybe not pretty but it works and it cost me nowt.

As its been raining most of the day I had some time in the shed and found some parts. The red one checks out as 1968 and I’ve had it since 2014 and the blue one is 1969 think i bought that in 2007/8

Will I finally got this back together not sure how the throttle rod will work but seems to work ok on the bench. When we get some good weather I will see if I can fine a brave sole to try it. Will I finally got this back together not sure how the throttle rod will work but seems to work ok on the bench. When we get some good weather I will see if I can fine a brave sole to try it.

Here are some pictures of my O&R Model H (1700 R.P.M.) the serial number has been removed from this one and the coil HT wire has a join where it has been repaired. David

Thanks Expeatfarmer (and Alan). Glad to say the Wheels are finished . Lots of time spent shaping the Hubs to represent castings like the originals. Glad I made a few riveting tools many years ago. Shown here is one I made especially to suit the Traction Engine Wheels with tight spaces to get into. Worked a treat on 1/16" dia copper rivets- Even more detail with the Oiler Tubes with screw on caps- Barely a perceptible wobble in these, but will ream the bores again to run perfectly true. Back to working on the Tank and fittings. An example of pics I use as reference (courtesy of a T/engine Forum user)- Helps me with scale and detail. I'm making the outlet valve and lever exactly the same as an original, so hope works ok.

One thing the plough/dozer blade is missing, is the handle and linkage to pivot the blade, left, right and centre. So the handle I made has been gathering dust on a shelf. Yesterday I fitted it then had a scrat about for parts for the linkage. The results are in the following photos. That section works. Now to find or make a lever to operate the fulcrum, to pull the chain, to operate the locating pin.

Forgot how so very complicated it is to build wheels in this manner. Last lot were 35 years ago!. Happy with progress though. With the spokes secured in the hubs in the right places, the covers were soldered in place first, then I began meticulously setting each brass letter in place around the Hubs to replicate the 'Cast In' lettering. I had planned it out way back when I first made the hub parts- I used a dirty steel washer to hold the letters in place and bolting it all up to keep the hub parts lined up while I 'cooked' it to sweat the letters into a thin bed of solder. After removing the retaining bolt/washer- After an initial clean up and bonding check- Still more machining to do before finally riveting them up

Wheels are taking shape. Lot of monotonous work machining 20 spokes 1/8" (3.175mm) wide from 1.2mm sheet, then bending to two different shapes to fit- Spokes are fixed to hubs with 10BA c/sunk screws. Still lots of work before these are riveted to the rims and finished-

Had to get this done. still needs a few things but had to get it off the bench. still need screws for carb just had to use some I had the bolt and hardware to hold the blade ( can't find ) found something that would work just not rite. well for being in boxes for years it's not bad . thanks for the help. P.S. Ill need more help with the toby cart

Just to bump this topic to say that this engine has been dismantled for more jobs to be finished prior to painting and running. I have also decided to make something to accompany it in 1 inch scale. Over the last 3 months, I've been researching Water Carts as well as referring to my old Model Engineer magazines from 1980's. So I've got enough info and images to reproduce an example of a Wallis and Steevens Ltd of Basingstoke Cart of the late 1890s. Wary of copyright issues, so here is a link to google search results. The black and white image is mainly what I'm working to- Wallis & Steevens Water Bowser Want to get these two models done so I can set up for painting at the same time and am making good progress. A few pics of what I've done so far- Machining the 'T' section wheel rims fron thick walled steel tube 4 1/2" dia x 1/4" thick (114mm x 6.3mm)- Finished 'T' rings with the hubs- ............and the wheel building jig with the finished axle/hubs - Side plates with associated parts ready for silver soldering- The side plates silver soldered up and trial fitted along with the lifting pump- Happy with the progress. Regards