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We know where a few more are dont we Nigel

See the linked post for checking the carb inlet, there is a one-way ball valve inside the diaphragm chamber. It's best to disassemble and clean all the parts of the carb using either clean fuel or carb cleaner. The air vane fits inside the shaft of the butterfly valve (left side of carb), here is a picture I took earlier. The butterfly valve will be open normally, it closes when the blade part above the flywheel moves up with increasing air flow. There shouldn't be any need to clean the crankcase with the cylinder removed unless there are bits of the old air filter inside (these would be visible inside the carb & induction housing), I would follow the engine rebuild thread if you have this problem, which is caused by running the engine without removing the old disintegrating foam. There is a special tool that fits the slot in the top of the cylinder for unscrewing it, you will need to replace the exhaust collector gaskets if you need to remove the cylinder for de-carbonising, they tend to leak if you don't replace them. See the last post in the engine rebuild thread for a details of the cylinder removal tool. Taking pictures as you dissemble things will help when you put it back together, I always take more than I need to and not just with engines (vintage electronics is my other hobby). David

Do you get travel expenses?

Count me in Chris.

Well that's it folks. Fini! Primed and undercoated. Top coat colour to be decided.

I love the look of this tractor:)

looks fab - well done. yes where did the hood ornament come from? is it a Glenn Petit one?

Looking good , where did you get the horse mascot from

If the exhaust collector will not move, the cylinder will need to be unscrewed. But make sure the piston is free to move before trying this, as the con-rod will break if the piston is stuck. The engine maintenance manual gives details on making a cylinder removal tool. The instructions given are to make it from a piece of flat steel 3/16" thick & 1" square, with a hole drilled in the middle for using a screwdriver as a "T" handle. I made one from a piece of steel & bar found in a box of offcuts & salvaged bits in the shed. I didn't bother to make it 1" square though, I only squared up the ends and drilled the hole for the bar. If the cylinder is very tight I usually use a vice to hold the engine crankcase (use wood or similar to protect the engine from the vice jaws) and use an adjustable spanner to turn the tool. You will probably need to replace the gaskets if you remove the cylinder to prevent leaks. Also make sure that the slot in the top of the cylinder lines up with the crankshaft or is at 90 degrees to the crankshaft when reassembling. Here is a picture of the cylinder removal tool I made. David