CNew

Wow, thats awesome to have all the paperwork with the unit!

Thanks David, amazing insight as always!

Very cool! I hadn’t seen that one before.

Haaaa, you’re too smart... great suggestion - I think I’ll do just that

Interesting, I’d be curious to see a photo of your trimmer.

Good reminder on the little bearings. I’m going to check out my local hardware store this weekend as well to see if they might have a suitable spring. I miss the old hardware stores I remember as a kid, those places are disappearing, along with good machine shops...

Thanks John! This one is just full speed.

All cleaned up and reassembled. I decided to go with the black decal- I think it looks nice with the original black Orline decal. Now I just need the weather to warm up so I can get it outside and test the engine.

David, That’s great, nice connection between the different springs. Definitely don’t ruin one of your good springs trying to determine this... I think this should be enough detail to find a suitable replacement. Thank you for all the help! Clint

Excellent, his is very helpful. I’ll try to get some better measurements as well on the locking spring. It’s good to know that the keeper is likely just a little piece of copper wire. This particular engine is one of the Type 133 military engines so I’m guessing it wasn’t repurposed for RC. It may had just gotten damaged over the years. When I got it the little post for the locker was busted in half so maybe a previously owner just decided to remove the whole Governor vane and mechanism. I do have another engine that was modified for RC and has the little throttle cable adjuster attached (see photo).

I added some photos. Actually it turns out that the sticker on the front of mine looks like it might have P-64. The sticker is damaged so it’s really hard to make out exactly what the number is before the “4” but it looks like a “6”. Then, the actual tag that has the serial number indicates P-5. All stickers look original to the engine.

Yes, I was equally disappointed as you might imagine. My guess is since it was hard to pull the starter rope he must have assumed that meant good compression. Or, it jammed when he pulled it to test it since it didn’t have any oil to lube the piston... Come to to think of it, the engine was missing the flywheel key as well so the flywheel wouldnt have been able to engage with the shaft to allow him to feel any compression.

That photo from Webhead is like the engine I have. It’s interesting, mine has the P-5 sticker on the front but I think on the bottom of the recoil cover there is also a sticker with what looks to be P-4, I’ll have to verify when I get home.

I’ve got an engine that needs a new spring for the Governor adjuster lever, specifically the little spring loaded post that locks the lever into position. The last spring was mangled and mostly missing so I don’t really have any dimensions to work with in order to find a replacement and I don’t want to try to pull one off a perfectly good engine. Does anyone know roughly what dimensions might be suitable? I was able to find a hardware supply source that has some small springs (these are not OEM for O&R) and I’m wondering if they might work well enough. The overall uncompressed length is 0.25”, the ID is 0.080”, the OD is 0.12“ and the zinc coated music steel wire itself has a diameter of 0.020”. The spring is rated at 46 lb/in with a max of 4.14 lb. Also, is the little copper colored spring retainer/keeper on the Governor shaft spring just copper or some other alloy. Mine is missing half of the spring. Clint

Chris, I was watching that manual as well but decided I had to pass on it and that was way before it jumped in price. It would have been a really neat book to have. David’s willingness to post various tool documents and part diagrams has been amazing! Clint

Good to know. I’ve seen tha P-74c decal on eBay and I always wondered what engine that was for - makes sense now. I’ve purchases O&R decals from that same guy before. My little TAS P-5 is in need of a decal, although I’ve seen a couple other P-5 engines that didn’t have decals either so maybe they didn’t have one. My P-7 has a decal that is still in good shape.

I’m finally in the re-assembly phase. I went through just about everything. I’m working on the gas tank now trying to clean out some gunk and varnish. Once that’s done I’ll be ready to do the finish it up and then hopefully my new decal will arrive. I’m also delayed for some ultra small fuel line for inside the gas tank. The little fuel filter looks to be attached with 0.080 or slightly smaller ID tubing. I’ll add some photos when it’s all back together. Cleaned up pretty nicely.

I’ve got a trip planned to the local metal supply. I’ll look for some small strips to maybe fab some straps. Cables ties are a good temporary

Wow, that’s one gorgeous saw! Great photo David!

David- your sleuthing abilities are astounding. Yep, that’s the plan. I put some oil in through the spark plug hole and I’m letting it soak this week. It’ll be a little bit before I have time to work on this one anyway, I’ve got a couple projects ahead of it. I may have a key from another engine I can use and as you suggest it doesn’t look like it would be too terribly challenging to fab a key. John, great idea with the pump - I think that’s exactly what I’ll end up doing with this one. If I can tweak the base and tidy it up a bit this could be a nice item (even better when I get this engine working). Good to know, thank you for the tip!

Unfortunately the engine I have is completely seized up. After opening it up it looks like the piston and crank may be royally jammed up. It’s completely rusted inside the piston bore. I’ve got some penetrating oil in it to hopefully free it up but it doesn’t look good at all on the inside. As always seems to be the case mine is also missing the air cleaner assembly. I will also need a flywheel shaft key and tank strap as those are both missing. Screws for the recoil cover are easy. That is indeed the same style base that came with mine. Glad to know what it was originally used for, never heard of the Merck-O-Tronic. My base has seen better days and it is bent quite a bit so it’s not at all flat and stable. I’m hoping I can straighten it out somehow, at least enough to make it functional.

Thanks David, good to know. It’s a “scrap” engine that was mounted to a vintage stand that looked like it might have been a display model of some kind. That’s why when I saw “Model” on the side I thought it might have been unique to a display or salesman sample or something.The stand looks factory made for it but I got the engine to get some spare parts.

Chris, Sounds like we’re on a similar journey with these O&Rs and you’ve got a nice collection going. I’ve been collecting since about December of 2018 and slowly adding to it as often as I can. It’s addicting! I haven’t been able to get my hands on a Tiny Tiger or Amp Champ yet. I’d also like to find the little outboard some day. John turned me on to the Homelite saws as well. I haven’t been able to add one to my collection yet but those are pretty cool too! You did a really nice job cleaning up and fixing the Comet C-saw. It looks to be in really good shape given the hard life it had. They’re fun to work on. Clint

Here’s one for you David, is this a typical marking on some of the O&R engines? I hadn’t seen this one before and was wondering if it was common or maybe an odd ball. I’m guessing it’s intended to say MODEL but the “M” didn’t really get stamped well.

Nice touch with the bare wood pull starter knob. Is that original to the saw or did you sand off the black paint that is typical and oil it, looks nice all natural! Clnt