Nothing wrong with working out of a shed at home, it keeps the cost down. I'm sure many potentially good ideas have gone under because of the costs involved in renting premises etc, before the product is fully developed, saleable and bringing in an income, unless you have unlimited funds at your disposal.
Good luck with your venture, and as Nigel said, "it sells itself"
It's like those chess games you could get where you played against the machine, you keep trying to plough a straighter furrow than your tractor and tomtom. Gives you a target to beat, especially if your'e playing alone. 🤓
A bit more info, the reason I copied all volumes, dimensions etc, is, the original carb is a non adjustable main jet Walbro, then I bought a Kohler adjustable carb from the States and rebuilt that,but never got around to fitting it,
I made this one a few years ago for my 312-8, I took apart the original, not difficult, it was rusted out, I copied the internal volume, pipe sizes, number of holes in the internal pipes (baffles) The only difference was, I fitted a 'stack' outlet, it is sooooo quiet. Stainless from the internet was used, I made 'hammerforms' to shape the ends and centre baffle, all 'tig' welded, and then I cut the outlet for the stack the wrong shape and made the mistake of filling the gaps with weld instead of fitting a 'patch' / 'doubler'. I can't remember what it cost, but the materials were not that expensive.
As we found out mate, it wouldn't of quite happened like that!
As it turned out the only way we could get the mix (a strong TVO mix, 50/50 paraffin and petrol) to light was in the workshop in controlled conditions! Which means we put a very small amount in a tin lid and checked to see if the spark plug would light it. It did!!
But pump the warmed up mix into the end of an exhaust and give it a spark... No Joy! Even trying to light it with a blow torch didn't work, it just kept blowing the torch out even at tick-over!
And there chaps is the root of the flame thrower problem, the exhaust gasses are so great they blow the spark on the plugs out! I could change the spark plugs for glow plugs, but as a blow torch won't light it I can't see that glow plugs would!
Sooooo.... Flames are out I'm afraid but.... I do have another idea.. I won't give anything away other than despite spending a long time trawling the internet, I can't find any sign of anyone anywhere trying this or even asking if it's possible
In other news I have a pair of small headlamps for Why Not... I'm sure some of you can guess where they came from
They need a bit of work, the chrome is too far gone with deep rust pitting for them to be re-chromed and the yellow bulbs just have to go..
It was a bit hard to hold a lamp in place and take a photo at the same time, but this will give you an idea... I need to mock up some brackets and roll WN outside so I can get a good look, hopefully they won't make WN look all "Toy Town"
looks great Ian
Do you think you are getting enough oxygen in the mix? Have You tried a spark plug at the end of the tailpipe on the out side, a little way back so air could be mixed in before the spark, I suppose it's possible you could be trying to ignite fuel and carbon monoxide. You could always add nitrous oxide in the mix to increase the oxygen . With your skills I'm sure you could fabricate some sort of combustion chamber to fit around the end of the pipe to create a venturi effect using the exhaust gasses to pull clean air and fuel in from around the outside of the pipe with the plug firing it at the end. Maybe just a length of larger pipe around the end of the exhaust would do with the outer pipe sticking out further than the inner to get the 'draw' (similar to the old 'airline' powered vacuum cleaners) and the fuel injected between the two, Just a thought,
Hi all, here are a few photos of my Bristol 10 taken a couple of years ago when we moved it from one shed to another.
No electric start, you have to hand crank the Austin engine. Controls are a bit different to all my other crawlers in that there is only one steering lever, it makes running it up loading ramps quite tricky as you can't stop and brake both tracks. Throttle is via twist grip at the end of the steering lever.
Last photo shows the Bristol beside my Ransome crawlers for an idea of size.
Rob
Very nice if I remember correctly, to make things more interesting, the throttle is closed by turning the twist grip, rather than opening it
C4 has felt neglected lately and last weekend I decided to test its limits.
It did pretty well, I think the limit is my own survival instinct
AWESOME Mark !!!!
If you use a chainsaw chain to transmit the drive to the front axle, you can cut the vegetation down as you drive around. A great excuse to get out and play, "Sorry Dear, but I really must go out and trim those weeds". "It may take me some time".
That was on of my earlier plans, but they are not as tolerant to twist as v belts, plus once clogged up they ride over too.
Will perservere a little longer
Do you have room to fit a cv/uj joint on the intermediate shaft and anchor it to the rear transmission so the sprockets can stay in line as articulation takes place?
Or use a worn chain which will accept an amount of twist Or fit an idler sprocket on the outside run of the chain where it meets and leaves each drive sprocket,4 in total, this may reduce the risk of the chain running off.
Sorry Chris, the ones I have are the spikes with the thread at one end and a point the other, all different sizes the ones your after sometimes come up at the auction, I'll have a look next Monday. If you need any of the spiky ones, let me know.
I seem to remember someone had boxes of tynes that he ended up with from an auction but can't remember who it was, can anyone remember please
I bought 5 boxes of rigid tine harrow spikes, Chris, if that is what you are after, let me know what size you want,, and how many, if I've got what you need You're more than welcome to some, all 5 boxes cost me £1.00p
Anchor the cylinder at the back so the piston moves forward, fit a pulley on the end of the piston, like an equalizer on trailer brakes, a couple of pulley's at the back for the cables to run over down to the hitch. This will give you more force because the oil will be acting over a larger surface area on the end of the piston. next question, do you have room for a cylinder like the one on "Bendy" ? PM me if you have.
Put it up on 6" blocks today. On the ground I was getting an estimated 4" depth with 3" ground clearance when raised. I've moved the ram connection to arm up an 1", and connected the chain with same bolt as lift lever connecting bar.
I've now got a depth of 6" with plough flat on the ground. Just over 3" clear when raised. If I screw the plough right up, I get 5" and a bit clearance. I think this is the best I can hope for.
When lifting the plough it will lift, but I think in use, especially in the ground, lift lever and hydraulics will be used.
A micro switch will be fitted, to stop the ram in lower mode, before the other arm hits the tank. The one with chain etc connected to.
The cylinder now is stripped ready for finding/getting/fitting a new cylinder/rod seal. Got a bit of a leak.
Do you have room to fit a second cylinder in place of the lifting chain/link ? You would then have something like a hydraulic top link on a three point, if you set the position of the lift cylinder to give the maximum advantage, lift wise through the linkage,and then use the second cylinder to give the height you want for ground clearance.Fit a tap to lock off the 'top link' when required or allow the two to work together. It won't increase the lift capacity (unless you put the two side by side) but you'll effectively have 'longer' travel when needed.
ime not shaw its the rings, we seem to have lots of compression ime realy stumped now, we have done the points, tried 3 carbs, 4 spark plugs, reground the valves in, changed the needle hights and it still will only run on choke for about a minute before it stops, this is the first small engine that i have ever come across in my life that me or some one around me could not get going :banghead: :banghead:
Not a great day, spent most of it out in Norfolk calibrating and repairing gritters, got home late, tired with a headache, and went straight to bed. Still, out for a birthday meal on Sunday
I think you should add a couple of pulse jets 
You could always add nitrous oxide in the mix to increase the oxygen 
. With your skills I'm sure you could fabricate some sort of combustion chamber to fit around the end of the pipe to create a venturi effect using the exhaust gasses to pull clean air and fuel in from around the outside of the pipe with the plug firing it at the end. Maybe just a length of larger pipe around the end of the exhaust would do with the outer pipe sticking out further than the inner to get the 'draw' (similar to the old 'airline' powered vacuum cleaners) and the fuel injected between the two, Just a thought,
all different sizes the ones your after sometimes come up at the auction, I'll have a look next Monday. If you need any of the spiky ones, let me know.
we have done the points, 
proof of loaders
in Ride On's
Posted
Nothing wrong with working out of a shed at home, it keeps the cost down. I'm sure many potentially good ideas have gone under because of the costs involved in renting premises etc, before the product is fully developed, saleable and bringing in an income, unless you have unlimited funds at your disposal.
Good luck with your venture, and as Nigel said, "it sells itself"