Wristpin

Not sure that I understand what you are saying as both the coil and trigger are shown in your original images. What is not clear to me from the schematic wiring diagram is whether battery current is needed for the ignition system or whether it is self energising and the battery is only needed for the starter motor. The danger is that if the ignition system is independent from the battery but due to a wiring error has received "a dose of volts" it may have died. Could really do with a better wiring diagram. I may have one and will have a look later.

There will be one wire going from the ignition unit to the ignition switch . Disconnecting this (at the engine end) isolates the ignition system (sparks) from any interference from a faulty ignition switch or any safety switches. So with that disconnected crank it up and check for a spark from the HT lead (plug lead). If sparking is restored it is then a matter of working through the system. Start with the kill wire itself . Reconnect it at the engine end and disconnect it at the switch end. Still ok then the kill wire is not shorting out . Then check the switch terminal - with the switch in the run position that terminal should be open circuit. In the stop position it should show continuity to ground. If all that checks out the problem lies elsewhere such as whatever safety switch system is fitted eg operator on the seat, brake applied, cutter clutch disengaged.

The 17" series 1 Super Punch ran from 1956 to 1959 and the same basic design carried on into the 80s badged as a Qualcast. The screw height adjuster , " kidney" fuel tank and 75cc on the engine plate would suggest 1963 onwards but if its original engine was 98cc it would be considerably later, probably around 1967 .

Pity about the box, people will leave them out side to fill with water. I've reskinned a few with "tin" from 25ltre oil drums, the trick is finding a drum that's nor pre-dented. The 17" Super punch was a good machine and a perfectly useable Classic now: as is the 14" MkVII Punch .Here's a few of mine , the one on the right is the quite uncommon ten bladed "Professional" .

A properly set up diaphragm will help but do observe the choke butterfly and see that it is closing correctly. The butterfly spindle is in two separate parts that push in and clip to the butterfly flap. Those spindle sections eventually wear oval and the flap no longer seals. Assuming that they are still available its a two minute job to change them. The choke flaps came in three types, plain with no hole, with an open hole and with a hole with a spring poppet valve. If you have a bad starter it may be worth fitting a plain flap or sealing the hole in the existing one if applicable. It may seem obvious but those models with the fuel tank below the carb always need a few pulls to lift the fuel but a full tank helps. Also they often cold start better with the throttle just off the stop position and the engine allowed to warm up and settle for a few seconds before fully opening the throttle slowly.

Strange people with strange ideas. Briefly I sold an item for cash , man travelled over 200 miles to collect it, brief demonstration and he expressed satisfaction and produced the exact amount in notes. So far so good. When he got home he emailed to say that I'd overcharged him by £25 as I'd listed it for that much less on a previous listing when it hadn't sold and he wanted a PayPal payment for the difference. Needless to say he didn't get it but then said that his " tablet" had retained the old listing and he'd got confused. No sign of the words " Sorry, my mistake" anywhere.

Totally different design. Confusingly the original Harrier was a two speed machine with a dog clutch and two primary drive chains but the Harrier 2 was a single speed machine; still with a dog clutch. I believe that neither the male or female parts of the dog clutch are available from the manufacturer but there may be some on the shelf somewhere. The dogs would wear and the machine would chatter and judder. With care it is possible to true up the dogs with a thin grinding or cutting disc on an angle grinder. That said I've seen a few failed attempts! The final version of the Harrier 2 ( still pale green with cast alloy chassis) used the Briggs and Stratton with the Powertrac clutch enclosed in the sump; long story but the cause of much grief, several modifications and finally a retro fit kit back to a dog clutch. Then the dark green dark single speed Harrier 48 , with a belt drive and followed by the variable speed one with two belts and " variator".

Standard old school practice but not with petrol - elf and safety. Paraffin , diesel or even water, but if valves are correctly lapped they will seal correctly. Only ever use the paste from the fine end of the tin; if that is not sufficient they need to be refaced and the seats cut. If the coarse paste is needed to recover a bad valve or seat the chances are that you will end up with a convex valve face and cupped seat. The days when cars needed a decoke every ten thousand miles and every village garage had refacing and seat cutting facilities are gone - as are the garages: so us small engine types have to seek out those who have the kit. A decent garden machinery workshop should have it as will vintage motor bike shops but otherwise it will be engine reconditoners who may turn up their noses at our sort of kit.

There is a very good manual "Small Engine Secrets and Solutions) written by John Carrow a BS MST and Technical Manager in Australia for many years. Unfortunately now out of print but worth searching for. This is a quote from the book and one of my favourites. (boringly so !) "Technicians who are valve critical will always have a better record of repair success than those who take a near enough approach" A lot of time can be wasted fiddling around with carburettion and and ignition to no effect unless the valves are right.

Certainly good valve sealing and adjustment is the basis of a sweet running engine. Don't just do the exhaust, I've found that the thirty degree inlet vales on 5hp BS engines seem to suffer a bit and benefit as much from a re- seat as much as the supposedly harder worked exhaust. Quite often poor starting on 21s and Ospreys was down to nothing more technical than throttle cable adjustment not applying the choke fully. Back in the day it did seem that the standard fit throttle control only had just enough throw to give both full choke and stop. Couple that with a bit of wear and slop in the pivot of the lever on the carburettor throttle plate and it was a choice of one ore the other but not both. We would often set them up for a reliable full choke and fit a handle bar mounted kill switch to look after stopping.

What a coincidence, I've just dug out one of that last Rotoscythes made under the Webb Windsor banner that I've had in store for 30+ years . Despite main bearing wear that makes setting the points interesting it makes a good job of the lawn. https://www.dropbox.com/s/9zrlm7flb2hg0xv/IMG_1989.MOV?dl=0

It's almost certainly pre electronic ignition so you will have to delve under the flywheel to find the coil, points and condenser.

Very odd - short of spinach? I fitted lots of Sprints over the years and never experienced any issues - just a good steady pull with no snatching. Even the Professionals with the 5HP BS require just a steady pull . I've just sold a tidy 3.5hp BS one dated 1969 with points ignition and the fuel tank below the carb - from standing over night, two slow pulls with the ignition killed to lift the fuel, and then one on 1/4 throttle and away she went. I find that the cutting disc works for you rather than against you.

Twin pulley - the one on the engine crankshaft or the less common twin pulley on the transmission input shaft that allows two speed operation?

Presume that you are referring to Briggs and Stratton engine numbers although some early Mountfields used both Aspera or Kirby Lauson engines ? To completely obliterate B and S numbers it must have been some pretty heavy handed sanding! Some images may help to work back from "what M1s were fitted with data". Just to complicate matters I believe that Mountfield used the M1 model designation for two different machines over the years.

Yes, the valve clearances are "adjustable" - if too tight a small amount may be ground off the end of the valve stem to achieve the book clearance. This is done after any valve refacing, seat cutting and lapping etc. Loss of spark may well be down to a faulty coil or condenser, but first check the contact breaker points gap and and also that the breaker plunger is not sticking in the block when warmed up. If that happens the points are held open until things cool down. I've found an old micro fiche covering engines 142300 - 142457 and the relevant parts are shown as- Coil 296834, condenser 29861, contact breaker set 29667, breaker plunger 65704 If you are not concerned about "originality" and the coil is good, the points and condenser can be replaced with a solid state trigger module such as a Meco or a Nova. If the coil is kaput and unavailable and the engine has electric start , there is a "work around" using an external car type coil as used on some Kohlers.

...... or the condenser or even tight valve clearances.

The Meco electronic trigger works fine with Japs, BSAs and Villiers provided that they do not have the later coils incorporating an embedded condenser. Just discard the points and condenser and connect the Meco to the coil LT. I fit them as standard when refurbishing Slopers on Marquises.

That seat trim is/was available as a Countax/Westwood part but otherwise just Google automotive trimmers or automotive trim suppliers.

No pics here either.

Quote: Different engine but anyone know this noise https://www.dropbox.com/s/ymkc98ftnw5f48c/20170129_144012.mp4?dl=0 Possibilities. Starter clutch binding. Ignition coil armature leg rubbing on flywheel. Something rubbing on the rotary screen.

Problem posting, will try again.

That number is the patent number, not the model . You have an 800 series box, second one down in this Dropbox file. https://www.dropbox.com/s/cdfen8aaxl75m8m/Peerless MST selector keys.0001.pdf?dl=0

That number is the patent number, not the model . You have an 800 series box, second one down in this Dropbox file. https://www.dropbox.com/s/cdfen8aaxl75m8m/Peerless MST selector keys.0001.pdf?dl=0

Knew that I had this somewhere but the filing system, both physical and mental took a while to locate it. Peerless Manual Transmission selector keys. https://www.dropbox.com/s/cdfen8aaxl75m8m/Peerless MST selector keys.0001.pdf?dl=0