factory

I assume you are referring to these gaskets; 5-5 Induction case gasket 5-6 Reed (feather) valve gasket Here's some I made earlier, for a hedge trimmer engine (13B) & a Tiny Tiger engine (¾HP). Note: these two engines have different thickness gaskets. You can always buy some to try, put a sample of each type in some fuel mix for a week of two to see if it reacts, swells or disintegrates, if it doesn't it will probably be OK. I bought a small pack of gasket paper sheets for a couple of £'s in the following sizes, 0.006" (0.15mm), 0.01" (0.25mm), 0.016" (0.4mm), 0.031" (0.8mm) and 0.063" (1.6mm), I will have a look in the shed later to find out the type. Note: you will get different measurements for the gasket thickness due to tolerances, which are mentioned the link you provided. Apparently Perry Como album covers make excellent head gaskets, see post #9 here. https://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=89564 David P.S. I'm tempted to combine this with the other recent gasket thread, as they both cover the same topic.

That one is actually an all aluminium governor vane from a .85HP engine and because it was my first O&R I had nothing to compare it to at the time, but I soon found help on the old forum. David

Here's one I posted earlier. It's a little tricker getting the spring back in the housing on these, make sure it goes back in the right way round, have a look at the Model 20A manual & follow the instructions for the CCW rotation. And I will say it again, it's very easy to break the spring if it's fitted or turned the wrong way during reassembly. And note the error in the manual, if I get time I will have a look through the service bulletins to see if they confirm which is correct. I did recently try to buy a Model 13B manual, but sadly the seller wouldn't sell it on its own, it had to go with two overpriced parts engines. David

They just don't scream for long enough though, high RPM's soon drain the tank. And yes it did go way way past the normal maximum speed with the vane dislodged out of the carb from the vibrations, it took a few more high speed runs to find the cause. The RC modellers almost always chucked the vane away to achieve a higher RPM too. Here are a couple of pictures of the bent governor vane, that were posted on the old forum. Bent governor vane Repaired governor vane David

The data-sheet describes everything in detail, the crimped bushing will probably break if you try to undo the crimped part. The "button retaining ring" is the part I took off on my larger switch. http://www.switchcraft.com/Drawings/951x_961x_cd.pdf David

Don't know if these brochures are too recent for you, the eBay listing has make "best offer". https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tas-Engine-bush-hedge-trimmer-generator-drill-outboard-bicycle-spritz-motor-RARE/372491930692?hash=item56ba3fcc44:g:dKQAAOSwhJNb31Zk David

It is hard to tell if it has the same type of clip from your picture, I took my picture with the switch pressed to make it more obvious how the parts are held together. David

Maybe one of these sections would be of interest for your Howard; https://myoldmachine.com/forum/26-pedestrian-operated-machines/ https://myoldmachine.com/forum/27-other-garden-machines/ You could try a wanted post too, for help to find a replacement Bakelite cover for the Wico mag too, they are certainly more common over here in the UK. David

Option C; I had a thought while I was at work, you may be able to swap the plunger. The spring clip can be carefully removed (hopefully it doesn't end up on a low earth orbit), getting the spring back on is a little trickier, but I've just successfully tried it with that larger Switchcraft push switch I found yesterday. I would try it on an old one that doesn't matter first. David P.S. A similar spring clip is used on the O&R engine PTO shaft.

Click on the seller's feedback, set "items per page" to 200, use "find in this page" and you will find half of the dozen they sold last year. The first was $150bin, the next few made a lot more on auctions until the market was saturated. I did try & get the seller to list one without replacing bits & running them, but got nowhere, also it shouldn't state NOS in the listing if it's been used. We all know the problems caused by the wrong fuel or oil and those reeds used in the Model 20A aren't easy to find too. David P.S. Shouldn't this be in the selling area?

They go even faster if the vane falls out, had that problem with my first engine (the vane was bent the wrong way). David

None of these are mine, but I thought they may be of interest here. Micron Turbair Electrafan 240V (with bottle). Micron Turbair Electrafan 12V (new old stock). David

If it's anything like this late 60's Switchcraft push switch then you will find that it's pressed together (see arrow) & cannot be taken apart without destroying it. This is what I meant by wrapping a bare wire around the threaded part of the switch to connect a tag to the switch body (demonstrated with a push switch from my electronics spares & a bit of scrap wire), obviously solder the tag on your switch and don't solder the wrapped part unless you want a melted plunger. David

OK it sounds similar to your other one, is there much missing or damaged on it? The original switch will have one tag directly connected to the threaded part (the engine case is the return connection for it), the new switch has insulation in-between as indicated below. You will need to use both of the tags on the new switch, solder an insulated wire to one tag to go to the points, solder a bare wire to the other tag (the one nearest the case would be best) & wrap it around the threaded part of the switch before attaching it to the casing. Of course if you have a suitable sized tag washer similar to the one in the picture below you could use that instead. David

A spare throttle cable could be used if you want a slower running display engine. Was the vane/throttle moving by itself? If not check the throttle butterfly shaft isn't gummed up, or maybe the spring requires too much force to close the throttle in normal operation (I seem to remember you mentioning the retaining wire was missing from the spring, so it could have been altered/bodged by the last owner). By the way O&R did sell an external throttle control, I just haven't found one or an engine fitted with one yet for my collection. David

It's supposed to come off the same way as the flywheel does, i.e. loosen the screw & strike the it sharply to free the sprocket from the taper. But I have also found they don't always want to come off easily too, I would try a parallel punch that fits in the screw hole, as hitting the screw a lot may damage the threads (I can't remember if it had a left hand thread too). If there wasn't a seal & possibly a plastic bearing race used for the shaft, I would have tried heating the sprocket to try & free it. For reference here is the sprocket removal procedure given in the chainsaw maintenance manual; David

Thanks for letting us know, looks like the original part no was A-3-3 for the button type switch. Is you second Drillgine the same type or one of the other variants? I've only got the late AEP engined yellow Drillgine with the steel case. Looks like you found some nice steel bases for your display stand, I look forward to seeing the completed project. David

These tags came with one of my O&R engines, one of them is for a TAS P-71 & the other for a KEIHIN carb which may or may not be used on one. David

I'm currently working on the new manuals/literature thread in the WIP section, I hope to get it ready for transferring once all the existing stuff from the many different threads has been added to it, then I can start editing & adding some new content. David

Which O&R tool was the replacement switch for? you never said in the original post. David

Did you check the rebuilt carb using the method below before refitting? I also sometimes add a length of fuel line & check it will actually pump fuel before refitting. If it's not the tank or carb, then it could be the shaft seals letting air in, also dirt can sometimes get trapped in the reed valve (keeping it open). David P.S. Did you sort out the high speed problem with the other engine that you mentioned in another thread recently?

It does look similar, 951 is obsolete thanks to ROHS legislation, 951X is the unleaded replacement, 951X (A) has normally open contacts, 952X (B) has normally closed contacts (normally open is the most common type used for O&R's). Full data-sheets & drawings here; http://www.switchcraft.com/productsummary.aspx?Parent=971 Just be aware that the stop (or kill) switches/buttons vary a lot for the different tools, some have toggle switches too, and they usually have one contact directly connected to the casing (ground), I suspect the replacement won't. For reference, my late production Drillgine has the standard brass strip version (presumably cheaper than adding the extra switch & wiring). David

Section 5: Magazines Featuring Articles & Adverts (on the Web) Most of these have been scanned by Google, click on the page numbers to go to the relevant part of the magazine on Google books (or other sites where indicated), also note that some of them don't have pictures. Boating Magazine, Popular Boating Magazine February 1963 page 12? Tiny Tiger Generator. November 1973 page 98 Dyna-Mite Generator. Flying Magazine July 1963 pages 16 Tiny Tiger Generator & 17 Lineboy Towbar. Mini Bike Guide November 1971 pages 49 to 51 & 65 (Holder Micro Cycle), from oldminibikes.com. Motor Boating Magazine, Motor Boating & Sailing Magazine February 1966 page 53 General Equipment Co. Ice Auger. November 1969 page 35 Tiny Tiger Generator. June 1972 page 8 Aquabug Outboard. National Maple Syrup Digest January 1964 page 15 King Drillgine, from maplesyrupdigest.org. Organic Gardening and Farming Magazine ??? 1966 page 20 Merc-O-tronic min-i-pump Model 600, from ebay sold listings Popular Mechanics Magazine April 1962 pages 128 to 130 Krestronics Charge-R-Lite Generator. June 1962 pages 124 to 130, 186 to 188 & 190 White Heat V Hydroplane. September 1962 page 56 Tiny Tiger Generator. June 1963 page 137 Petro Chug-A-Saw Chainsaw. October 1963 page 163 Orion Drillgine. January 1964 page 162 Varo Amp-Champ Generator. April 1964 pages 182 to 189 Tom Thumb Scooter Mini-Bike (Part One). May 1964 pages 165 to 169, 185 & 186 Tom Thumb Scooter Mini-Bike (Part Two), from archive.org. December 1964 page 24 Polaris Power Pole Auger. January 1965 pages 129 & 130, 222 Polaris Power Pole. July 1965 pages 84 & 85 Halicki Skateboard. July 1969 page 51 Calif. Power Line Products Inc. Chainsaw. August 1969 page 33 Calif. Power Line Products Inc. Chainsaw. September 1969 page 221 Calif. Power Line Products Inc. Chainsaw. January 1970 pages 168 to 171 Tom Thumb Mini-Bike. June 1970 page 181 Orline Amp-Champ Generator. July 1970 page 161 Orline Model 249 Hedge Trimmer. May 1972 pages 21 & 22, 24, 190 Steam Mini-Bike. July 1974 page 174 Chicken Power Bike Kit. November 1974 page 196 Chicken Power Bike Kit. December 1974 page 181 Chicken Power Bike Kit. October 1976 page 191 AEP Service Training. May 1978 page 6 AEP Pony Express Bike Kit. June 1978 page 198 AEP Pony Express Bike Kit. Aug 1978 page 155 AEP Pony Express Bike Kit. Popular Science Magazine June 1961 pages 64 to 67, 208 & 209 New Ohlsson & Rice Engine, Various Applications & page 217 Speedy Sprayer (not O&R but related). January 1962 pages 191 & 192, 194 & 214 Comet C/Saw & Savidge Drill. March 1962 page 172 Krestronics KGC-3 Generator. April 1962 page 32 Chip-A-Saw Chainsaw, Orion Drillgine & Petro Drill. July 1962 page 152 Irvington Mini Winch. January 1963 page 157 Nichols Dyno-Mite Generator. May 1963 page 189 Tiny Tiger Generator. May 1964 pages 112 to 114 Tiny Tiger Generator. December 1970 pages 20, 22 & 26 Orline Sno-Tiger Snow Thrower. June 1971 pages 69 Orline Mark II Chainsaw & 133 Helpmate Mini-Automatic Chainsaw. June 1972 page 18 Wards 30-Inch Trimmer. May 1977 page 50 AEP Estate & Landscaper Trimmers. May 1978 page 123 AEP Groomer Trimmer. The Quarterly Skateboarder Spring 1965 page 11 Tiger-Skate & Tiger-Bike, from vintageskateboardmagazines.com. David

Nice, did they have any other brochures (the auction on ebay seems to be mostly duplicates)?. By the way the two sellers in New Jersey got the O&R stuff from the same place, but it looks like it all came from Ace Motor Service originally, one of O&R service distributors in New Jersey. It's interesting to see the Circular saw was the most expensive tool on the price list and the bike kit the cheapest. David

It doesn't look as rusty to me as both the BBC & that gutter-press newspaper say; https://online.handh.co.uk/m/lot-details/index/catalog/114/lot/43939/?url=%2Fm%2Fview-auctions%2Fcatalog%2Fid%2F114%2F%3Fpage%3D2 Seriously from the description in the Sun "despite being covered in rust" I was expecting something nearer this state. David