factory

Those pull knobs are both made of wood, the first 6000 (approx) engines had them finished in clear lacquer/varnish and others from the early 1960's had them painted black. I would suggest finding someone with a wood turning lathe and have some made if you can't find any. David

The parts & O&R tools etc. are still available from @neons. David

No it wasn't that one, it was the first one I've seen in the UK for about five years. It has a blue starter housing with black handle, shaft, gearbox & propeller (also most of the engine is painted as per the Aquabug manual). David

Same here ! They are definitely very common in the US at least, I've imported five of them including the Model 5001-1 (that the manual came with) and rare Model 400 (110V DC version). I should really sell one of the duplicate Model 300's, but I think I paid too much for it. David

I have finally scanned & added the instructions for the late 1960's Tiny Tiger generator (Holly Products Corp.) to the manuals sticky thread, it can be found in "section 4: tool specific manuals". David

I've just had a look at the pictures on the ebay listing, apparently they used the Olsen and Rice engine. At least that explains why these engines get misspelt so often. David

Nice find, it's probably best to email some high resolution scanned images and I can create a pdf for the manuals sticky thread. Pictures in posts are limited in resolution to save server space. David

PM sent. Clint, it's in the equipment manuals section (outside the O&R section) which can be found on the right hand side of the main MOM homepage, maybe the filetype is incompatible with posts. David

I have sometimes found appropriate sized rods in old/broken tape recorder mechanisms, usually salvaged from old stereos that have been thrown out (so cost is free ). David

The rotor has permanent magnets, these will be attracted to the steel parts of the stator that the coils are wound around, therefore it won't spin freely. If it's rubbing could there be some swarf stuck in there somewhere. There is a warning on the Regina Champ to not remove the rotor, maybe it would lose some magnetism. Not sure what you mean about the oil, is there some residue in the bottom of the casing? Interesting to see the coupling is different to the Regina Champ version too. David

Thanks for confirming that Paul (and for adding pictures of the rest of the flyer), E.P. Barrus Ltd. were the distributor of Orline products in the UK. Barrus are still going, they moved from Acton in London to Bicester in 1977 and turned 100 in 2017, an interactive history page is on their website here; https://www.barrus.co.uk/about-us/barrus-celebrates-100-years/ David

Apologies Joe, I keep the sticky thread locked so it doesn't end up a mess like the previous version did, I created a comments thread to go with it too (I will add finds to the title of it). Thanks for spotting that Drillgine advert, I've converted the picture to pdf and unloaded it to the sticky thread in the "tool specific" section. David

I'm curious to know if that is a flyer from EP Barrus or part of a newspaper, also was it dated? David

Thanks for confirming that John, I thought it might be for a foot throttle control, it looks like it has a lever at the other end for the carb. David

Being located across the pond I have no idea who either the Bruins or Blues are, will google it later. Back on topic, I noticed earlier in the week that there should be a guard over part of the belt drive section. Also is that cable/tube underneath the board attached to what looks like a foot pedal for the throttle control or something else, is the long spring part of this too? David

Welcome to the forum Alex and thanks for posting pictures of your Tiny Tiger. It looks like it maybe the very common Model 300 (the band around the generator with these details is missing), these don't make anywhere near that (where did you get the 350 figure from?) as they were very popular in the 1960's and so many have survived. From your pictures I can see the condenser needs a repair, the spark-plug lead reattaching and the cylinder side plate is missing, also I can't tell if the primer button is missing from the carb or if the carb has one of the top covers without this. Model 300 Tiny Tiger generators in this condition typically make around $75 to $125. Rarer models with the larger tank and boxed like new ones can make around $200 to $250 or sometimes more dependant on the number of interested buyers at the time. Here is a current screen-grab of completed listings on eBay.com, even that very nice condition complete Tiny Tiger with paperwork only made $138. Hope this helps with the value and I'm sorry if it seems a lot lower than you thought. David

Welcome to the forum and thanks for sharing some pictures of your O&R powered Toby Cart skateboard. We have come across the Halicki motorised skateboard before in this thread; But I hadn't spotted the name Toby Cart before, which is just visible in the first picture in the above linked thread. There are a couple of different motorised skateboards (including what looks like the Halicki/Toby Cart) in the July 1965 edition of Popular Mechanics magazine; Popular Mechanics July 1965 (Motorised Skateboards) It seems Henry Blight Halicki aka Toby Halicki had a few different names according to Wikipedia. The website below states that he invented the Toby Cart motorised skateboard aged 21, which would be somewhere around 1964-1965 and it was featured on several TV shows including; Johnny Carson's Tonight Show, The Lucy Show and The Monkees. http://ampoleagle.com/a-dunkirk-legend-in-the-making-p2615-146.htm From what I can see in addition to the missing tank & carb, you will also need a tank strap, the two carb/induction housing flange gaskets, an air filter, the other cylinder plate & a UY6 spark-plug. All of those parts are commonly missing from O&R engines, but they do turn up from time to time on eBay, or it may be easier and cheaper to buy a donor engine. The carb will be one with a diaphragm primer button & needle valve on top. The Model J engine is one of versions that had a reduction gearbox (900rpm output, 6.9921 to 1 gear ratio), they also seem to turn occasionally on eBay. In my collection I have a barely used JI that I imported from the US and a rough JIII that I found in the UK (which I intend to get running again at some point). David

As far I know I have never seen an exploded view or parts list for any version of the Amp Champ, should I add a wanted section to the manuals thread? This is the only advert I have seen for the Amp-Champ (apart from the magazine articles), I can't remember where on the web the picture came from. David

Yes there is a UK 230V version of the Tiny Tiger, I have one rebranded as the Tiny Tor, it has a different stator winding with thinner wire & more turns to give 230V, the output frequency range will be the same as the US version it has the same number of magnets on the rotor. I don't have any bikes myself, do you have any problems with Ethanol gas/fuel and your vintage/classic bikes? I only ask as others on here have asked if it should be used with O&R's in the past, the last thread mentioning this is this one (post #6 onwards); I have heard of the Gannet engine before, three have sold in the last 3 months in the UK (none of which were air-cooled), wow they are expensive compared to O&R's. David

Thanks for adding shipping to the UK, I think the high cost is due to using Priority International, is the shipping calculated by ebay? Recently Webhead found he couldn't use the USPS online shipping service for First Class International for a couple of small parts I ordered, he sorted that by going to the Post Office. We don't get to many requests in the UK for parts, I have some reproduction carb diaphragms from Wallfish to help UK and European collectors. Sadly 'ListerDiesel" aka Peter Forbes passed away in March last year, he was the admin for "stationary-engine.net" aka Fozzers forum, the forum is currently offline, I have no idea if it will ever reappear. I hadn't seen the other links from "Mike in NC" on smokestak, thanks for posting about that. I have an original of the 1971 master price list, it doesn't tell you which engines the parts are used on and it's not much use for later parts after 1971. My later master service manual is missing the master parts price list. I will add links to the manuals thread for those. David P.S. Bonnie, the flywheels you have on ebay are both for the Series 13B engine, they are listed on the parts diagrams for 13B-401/406 and 13B-413 to 416, they are described as; 400565 flywheel (includes starter springs, dogs and retainers) 400566 flywheel with pins only?

If I had more time I probably would start a book. I have a parts diagram from 1963 on the way from Australia to fill a gap in my information, I do hope one day to find some of the obsolete early service bulletins that aren't included in the master service folder, as well as later stuff from 1975 to 1978 (the end of AEP). David

I don't know why ebay decided it was a good idea to block all international communication either, the screenshot was taken about 5 hours ago. Are you OK selling any of your O&R parts overseas? it doesn't have to be through ebay either. Do you have any original documentation to sell? Do you have any history of which service place they came from? Okay here is what I found for the parts, looking through a lot of different engine diagrams; From 13B-300 and later parts lists (Sept 1973 onwards), not used on earlier engines. 400376 gasket & O ring kit for the engine 400377 gasket & O ring kit for the cylinder only Used on Compact I,II,III & 13A engines & 13B engines before 1973. 5-14 exhaust collector gasket (lower) CNew is right, the last one is used on the late (approx 1978) AEP Groomer string trimmers fitted with the Tillotson carb & many other Tillotson carbs (not just for the O&R/AEP), still available in Tillotson carb kits, no complete trimmers have yet been found as far as we know. 201009 carb flange gasket (for Tillotson) David

The market is also going to be limited to people that are near enough to collect it from Salinas in California. David

Best to paint it, or you will be polishing it continuously to keep it clean, the paint should help prevent corrosion too. Do you have any before pictures? David

That seller has had a few parts that interested me in the past, that I couldn't contact them about. And more recently I tried to give them some helpful info about the engine type those flywheels fit, but was also unable to contact them, not sure if they don't allow any questions or have just blocked international communication (which is unfortunately very common on ePay these days). David