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factory

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Everything posted by factory
 
 
  1. Yes that's a fairly common marking for engines produced before November 1967, Model A is a standard engine with a round tank and the Roman numerals III are for Compact III (3) a 1HP engine, which were made from the end of 1965 onwards. What is it off? or did you find it like that? David
  2. I don't think it would have been economic to repair all the damaged parts as a service tech in the past, they would have just changed the parts & presumably billed the customer for them & the labour time. Can't help but think they would have just replaced the engine completely with a newer one, as I can't imagine all parts used for the first 6000 engines were available for long, certainly the piston rings are one part they discontinued quickly for this early engine. In the first post he mentions having around a dozen O&R's is his collection. That's another feature of the first batch of O&R's, along with the starter housing screws being in the back, which would usually require removing the engine from the tool to service the starter mech. David
  3. It doesn't help that the service manual shows (in figure 11) the centre of the spring coiling out the opposite way to how it should be (figure 8 is correct), this is one reason I never uploaded the manual. But I did upload a UK version of the starter rebuild instructions which has the correct drawing, this came with a Turbair sprayer and is the later type of starter than we have been discussing in this thread. I do intend to add modified version of the service manual here eventually. David
  4. The retainer has two little prongs/tabs bent over on the inside of the housing (this is also mentioned in the service bulletin), you may need to anneal the retainer to avoid those prongs snapping off (guess how I know that ), they are often missing too. Here is the spring retainer as fitted to SN #015990 from my collection, which has never been apart. Is the pulley on this engine anything like the one used on your C-Saw? I suspect this engine may have been a NOS spare for one of those saws or something similar but can't confirm this. Edit: I've probably answered my question, my engine doesn't have the notch cut into the crankcase flange shown in post #1. David
  5. I did my first spring repair last year (it was broken at both ends), it was a little trickier due to the shape used in the later square recoil housings, if the spring ends aren't bent to the correct shape they don't fit. My very first O&R needed the starter rebuilding due to a snapped cord, I only had the diagram that came with it at the time (before I found the forum), it took a few attempts before I got it back together & working, I remember the spring escaping too. I added those PDF's in 2017, I'm surprised they weren't found easily in your search (maybe because they are PDF's rather than pictures), Also they did make hundreds of thousands of them, until June 1967 the serial numbers were sequential & the latest one from then I have found was approx SN #140,000, we will probably never know how many more where made till the end of production in 1978. Mine certainly attract plenty of interest at shows in the UK, I've also met several other collectors too (but they aren't on the forum as far as I know). The length of the starter cord (part # 137-1) for engines up to SN #099151 is 44" according to the service bulletin (I will add it to the manuals thread when I've turned it into a PDF), as the spring is now a little bit shorter the cord will also need to be shorter, be careful not to pull the cord too far when it's back together, it would be very annoying to have it fail again. Edit: spring is part no #21-13 not the starter cord as I previously stated. I will check the spring retainer position on one of my early engines and add a picture later. David
  6. The one in post #8 looks to be a NGK C40 too, I can't find much about it either apart from it's not in the NGK catalogue anymore. I imagine it's a 10mm thread similar to the Champion UY6 used on the early O&R's, or it could even be smaller i.e. 8mm, can you confirm the thread size? David
  7. I'm not surprised it was that much, paper gets very heavy when you have a lot of it. And yes I was thinking of a large (or several) wooden packing crates that can be moved as a pallet, there are companies out there that can do this, but I imagine it would be very expensive to do, as it would take a long time for them to pack all the items properly. Typically it costs over $100 to ship a single O&R tool across to the UK. David
  8. Welcome to the new forum Chris. Unfortunately the old forum had a major problem with uploaded pictures, which all disappeared overnight, so we ended up starting again at our new home on here (some of the old forum can be found on the internet archive, without pictures). Well you've got one of the first batch of O&R engines (approx 6072 were made before the first design changes) and even better it's still on the original tool. Most early ones seem to end up on their own, I've got a few in my collection like that and just one that is still attached to the original pump. I scanned and uploaded the correct diagram for your engine here a couple of years ago; The starter cord & spring are shorter on these early engines, the little clip in your picture is the spring retainer for these (the reel retainer ring is used in much later engines), one end of your spring appears to be broken off and the middle section has become bent in the opposite way. This is how the spring should look; You may be able to repair the spring using a blowtorch to heat the ends up, which will allow you to bend it back into the correct shape without it snapping. Or fit a new one, if you can find a replacement spring, they changed to a longer type eventually (with a longer cord too). The bad news is the starter dogs used in these early engines are a different size too, they are very hard to find and they tend to fall out & become lost by previous owners (later engines use a retaining ring on the flywheel). I've had this problem twice now, the solution was to use a later flywheel (which required machining a custom sized flywheel key to suit), I kept the original flywheel in case I ever find the correct starter dogs. David P.S. I have scanned a service bulletin that covers rebuilding the earlier starter mechanisms, when I get time I will edit it & create a PDF for the forum.
  9. Sounds good, I've also successfully tried the O&R service procedure and I can say that the method in this thread is far easier. By the way I usually create a link to another post, or edit the quote to the relevant part (if the quoted post is a long one or has many pictures). I now have a stock of laser cut carb diaphragms, diaphragm bowl gaskets & the mylar check valve (courtesy of Wallfish ) so can now help anyone in the UK or Europe that needs a set for a carb rebuild. PM's have been sent to the two members that recently requested them. David
  10. I can just about make out that it says 1970's on the brass plaque, which is wrong as the engine actually appears to be a 1960's engine from the style of starter fitted, the black cylinder cooling shield & no extra fins on the crankcase. I've been keeping all my damaged engine parts for possible reuse to make a similar cut-away engine, but I wouldn't cut-away the hard to find parts such as the air filter & muffler. David
  11. That's certainly possible, I've also had a thought that the plastic housing could be easily damaged if it ingested anything more solid than snow (i.e. stones). David
  12. Another other option could be to find a company that would pack them into a shipping crate & ship them to you. David
  13. Most of the Orline trimmers I have saved pictures of have the yellow starter housing, with the standard (silver background & black text) water slide instruction decal & 1HP decal, but from around 1969 they changed to a sticker version with the white lettering, these don't seem to survive as well as the earlier decals. The most common type found on the Orline trimmers; I also found this picture, with what I believe is a Sears model number on the bottom of the sticker (no guarantee if it's original starter assembly though). Of course there are a few other versions of the stick on decal (from my collection). David
  14. Thank you to Wallfish for these Aquabug parts that will go on my second Aquabug. Here are some pictures of the decals, which are in much better condition than any of the others I have, I will see if I can scan them before fitting the cover (in case anyone wants to use the images to have new decals made); David
  15. No that is one of the standard slotted needles mentioned in post #2. The page mentioning the X was saved from an ePay listing (I added it in case anyone came across one of them), standard needles have either the T or a slot cut into the top of them (as yours does), early engines have a tiny needle on the side of the carb (this has a different setting too). David
  16. Thanks for finding it again, it does look like someone has made the stand for it, also the two round labels are still with it (that would have been around the spark-plug when new). And finally the filename gives it away too "Ohlsson & Rice engine...NOS military surplus". Here is the picture in question in case it disappears; David
  17. Lancaster pumps are still in business, they did sell chainsaws with O&R engines but I've not yet seen a pump using one. Some history of Lancaster here, apparently C-B Tool Co were the manufacturer for Lancaster and they bought them out in 1978. http://vintagechainsawcollection.blogspot.com/2008/11/partner-c6-sweden.html Orline (O&R) made the Sno-Tiger, we haven't found a survivor yet, possibly because they are fairly large and the casing is supposedly made from plastic, I imagine they were probably all thrown out when the engine stopped working or the plastic fell apart. David
  18. Now added to the appropriate thread; David
  19. Here are the parts diagrams for the Orline Hedge Trimmers & type 13A224 engine (as fitted to CNew's hedge trimmer) now they have been edited & turned into a PDF. Ohlsson & Rice Hedge Trimmer Model HT-24 248 249 288 289 Parts List Oct 70 & Type 13A224 Engine Oct 71.pdf Note that engine types 13A183, 13A208 & 13B259 were also used on these trimmers but are not shown in the above PDF. David
  20. I don't have anything for Comet tools or the Drillgine, but I was going to surprise you with some stuff for the Orline hedge trimmer, oh well you know now. It's already scanned, just needs a bit of editing. If you could let me know which engine type is fitted I can add the correct parts diagram for you too. David
  21. Hope it's useful to you either way, it's sure to help anyone else who may need it too. The service folders are all a little bit different, depending on whether the repair shops bothered to get the updates or not, plus bits seem to disappear from them. I scanned all the pages of the first one I bought when I was off work for a long term (due to my health). Since then I have acquired a second later one, but there is the odd item missing that contents page lists, I'm slowly scanning that one too (apart from duplicate pages). Scanning them is the easy bit, editing & creating smaller sized pdf files from the PNG images takes a long time. Finding a service book that covers the earlier stuff in more detail & that goes all the way to the end of AEP in 1978 would be fantastic. David
  22. I suspect Wallfish may already have this information, but here are some scans I've done of parts diagrams for the chop saw & the type 218 engine (I do have it in higher resolution, but wanted to keep the file size lower for the forum). Ohlsson & Rice Circular Saw Jan 71 & type 218 engine Sep 68.pdf David
  23. Unfortunately I now realise which seller it came from too, I'm not sure they actually collect O&R's at all, but they have been very busy buying up most cheap O&R's over the last two years and then either immediately relisting them at a much higher (one item I noticed was even listed with the previous owners pictures before they could have received it), or parting them out to sell the engine, tanks & other bits separately (i.e many Chicken Power kits, chainsaws & even a rare Polaris snow blower ), often the engines are then repainted & incorrect decals attached for the type/age of engine. I think this may also be one of the reasons why asking prices have been all over the place & often quite silly, also completed listings on ePay don't give the lower sold price when something sells at a lower 'best offer' price either (which artificially raises asking prices). Looking at the listing it states "all parts are there to build the chop saw, only took out the old engine" so I'm guessing it was a complete saw before they bought it, if they had more knowledge they would have realised it's higher potential value as a complete item. But then again it helped you find one at a very good price, as we both know an engine to complete it isn't too expensive. I'm looking forward to seeing the chop saw back to how it should be. David
  24. Pinterest must be one of those sites where you can never find anything again, I tried & failed to find it last night too. David
  25. I can't remember it from the old forum, but Plasti Dip sounds interesting and unusually it actually seems to be available in the UK (but they do need to update their website, as one of their clients "British Rail" ceased to exist over 20 years ago!). Looks to be available in many colours too; https://www.plastidip.co.uk/colour-swatches/ Must be good stuff as it contains lots of hazardous chemicals, better buy some before they ban it! https://www.plastidip.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Plasti-Dip-Black-SDS-GETF954154C3-UV-1.pdf I'm guessing Jim used a mould to make the spark-plug insulators from Plasti Dip? David
 
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